Need help

[Riley Blodgett]

So if I’m going to have a high voltage output due to upgrading my car with aftermarket stereos and subwoofers and there’s been a big debate on whether a new alternator or a 2nd battery would be a better upgrade. The problem is when I talk to people about it they always say 2nd battery but they are probably thinking that I’m just gonna be sitting in a parking lot listening to it like most people but I want to mainly listen to my music on the road and online people say a upgraded alternator for that situation. So need help knowing which is better for my situation because I don’t know what to do

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[huberoy123 10+ year member]

Are your headlights dimming when you turn up the music, or does your panel light dim? Did you add an amplifier? What is the total amp draw for your equipment (check the specifications)? I run 3 amps, 8 speakers, and 2 subs in my car on the factory alternator. My total amp draw is 110 at full throttle, which I never do. My factory alternator is 135 amps. No alternator upgrade or 2nd battery. I also mainly listen to my music on the road. I learned the hard way not to listen to it with my ignition off. Can anyone say Triple AAA???

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Agreed.

There is always debates on real world use versus casual abuse or competition use. On systems that I know are going to be used with abandon, from around 1.5-2+ I usually recommend -the big three, decent oversized AGM up front. Then you get into that area where the solution is usually a bit overkill for systems around 2-3k, take the afore mentioned upgrades, add a 2nd AGM, or preferably a Lithium No Li or LifePo4 solution good cabling between the two and a parallel ground and your off to the races up to around 4-5k in a daily (noncompeting) driver.

I know that many think they are pulling some seriously large numbers like 200+ amps, but that is the exception, not the rule.

30 to 50 amp continuous driving down the roads is almost louder than one can handle, realistically.

As you have indicated, I concur.

Running 3-way front stage, two way rear and dual 13" subs, never have any issues with the stock 110A alt, Bosch AGM up front and a 90ah GloweVoltage series 1 LifeP04 out back - AC on or off, day or night.

It all comes down to use i.e. daily driver use, personal abuse use or competition use applications.

 

[Riley Blodgett]

Agreed.

There is always debates on real world use versus casual abuse or competition use. On systems that I know are going to be used with abandon, from around 1.5-2+ I usually recommend -the big three, decent oversized AGM up front. Then you get into that area where the solution is usually a bit overkill for systems around 2-3k, take the afore mentioned upgrades, add a 2nd AGM, or preferably a Lithium No Li or LifePo4 solution good cabling between the two and a parallel ground and your off to the races up to around 4-5k in a daily (noncompeting) driver.

I know that many think they are pulling some seriously large numbers like 200+ amps, but that is the exception, not the rule.

30 to 50 amp continuous driving down the roads is almost louder than one can handle, realistically.

As you have indicated, I concur.

Running 3-way front stage, two way rear and dual 13" subs, never have any issues with the stock 110A alt, Bosch AGM up front and a 90ah GloweVoltage series 1 LifeP04 out back - AC on or off, day or night.

It all comes down to use i.e. daily driver use, personal abuse use or competition use applications.

So in my case I have a 2007 Saturn aura and I’m putting kicker cs series 6-3/4” two way car speakers for my front doors, kicker cs series 6”x9” 3 way car speakers for my rear deck, and I want to get Skars dual 12” EVL enclosure but I’m not fully sure it will fit yet. I plan on getting a amp for the subwoofer and a amp for the kickers, so what would you recommend knowing that kind of build?

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

I'd opt for a different setup all together. The CS line is inexpensive, uses cheap PEI domes, not my cup of tea. For a little bit more you can get into the NVX "V" series comps up front and 6x9's in the rear. 1" silk dome tweeters on both the components and the coaxial 6x9's.

Up front

VSP65KIT 750W Peak (250W RMS) 6.5" V-Series 2-Way Component Speakers with 25mm Silk Dome Tweeters

Product Details: 6-1/2" (also mounts in 6-3/4" w/ included brackets) NVX V-Series 2-way Component System Car Speakers Power Handling: Peak: 750 watts per set / 375 watts on each side RMS: 250 watts per set / 125 watts on each side Polypropylene cone material Nitrile Butadiene Rubber NBR speaker...

nvx.com

Rear deck

VSP69 900W Peak (300W RMS) 6x9" V-Series 2-Way Coaxial Speakers with 25mm Silk Dome Tweeters

Product Details: 6" x 9" V Series 2-way Coaxial Car Speakers Power Handling: Peak: 900 watts per pair / 450 watts each RMS: 300 watts per pair / 150 watts each Polypropylene cone material Nitrile Butadiene Rubber NBR speaker surround 1" Silk Dome Tweeters CEA-2031 compliant: Yes 1.5" Voice coil...

nvx.com

Dual 12's in a loaded box, CT sounds Tropo's, much better sounding IMHO.

TROPO-2X12D4 // Dual 12” 2600-Watt Loaded Tropo Series Ported Car Subwoofer Box

The CT Sounds TROPO-2X12D4 is a loaded dual 12” ported car subwoofer box that comes with two of our TROPO-12-D4 1300-watt max power 12-inch car subwoofers pre-installed and pre-wired internally to a 1-ohm final impedance.

www.ctsounds.com

Amps, couple of options. 5-channel all in one at 140x4, 1280x1, The recoil RED1800.5

Amazon.com

A little bit more but more inline with the subs abilities:

Stinger Audio MT-2000.1 2,000 Watt (RMS) Class D Monoblock Car Audio Amplifier

Shop 2000W Class D Monoblock Amplifiers for your car today! With a sleek and compact design, this amplifier can easily fit into any car audio setup.

stingersolutions.com

Stinger Audio MT-600.4 1000 Watt 4-Channel Car Audio Amplifier

Upgrade your car audio today with the Stinger Audio MT-600.4! Shop the MT Series amplifiers for Class D circuitry, a compact design, and crossover multiplier.

stingersolutions.com

You can get 11% off if signing up for email first time buyers.

If you don't mind the sub amp being white, the MT1800.1 is a steal at $179.00.

Stinger Audio MT-1800.1M 1800 Watt Monoblock Marine Audio Amplifier

Upgrade your audio today with the Stinger Audio MT-1800.1M! Shop the MT Series marine boat amplifiers for Class D circuitry, a weather-resistant design, and more.

stingersolutions.com

You will need an LOC to connect all this stuff up. SoundQubed has a decent one that is 5 channels so you still maintain front/rear/sub controls.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G7TQTXT/?tag=caraudiocom-20

That would be a pretty decent setup, reasonable too.

 

[Old_Slapper]

The biggest question is, how many watts do you plan on getting?

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

So if I’m going to have a high voltage output due to upgrading my car with aftermarket stereos and subwoofers and there’s been a big debate on whether a new alternator or a 2nd battery would be a better upgrade. The problem is when I talk to people about it they always say 2nd battery but they are probably thinking that I’m just gonna be sitting in a parking lot listening to it like most people but I want to mainly listen to my music on the road and online people say a upgraded alternator for that situation. So need help knowing which is better for my situation because I don’t know what to do

Alt 100% in this case, its the heart of the charging system.
Batteries including any type of lithium need recharge. Sometimes a legit 200A is enough especially when idle rpm charging is greater than a say 300A unit that needs 4000rpm to hit full charge. Interconnect is the overlooked elephant in the room. A 250A alt done right with even AGM batteries can support 4K albeit for a short period (60sec)... and if done right for that 60sec you'll be crackin' skulls.
OP... upgrade the alternator and wire 1st. Once upgraded battery upgrades will come easily. Better battery clamps, larger wire and possibly an alternator lug scream what about my batteries?
And its something that can be slept on for a bit once the charging system and wire has been upgraded.
If done right less is more, but its a steep learning curve tbh

 

[Mitchell Fosgate III]

It wouldn’t make a difference. You’re asking whether a new alternator will be better off for the car radio than a new battery. The radio will still function as is. Form and great. If you want to make the battery live longer, then a new alternator may be the better choice for the reasons you have.​

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

It wouldn’t make a difference. You’re asking whether a new alternator will be better off for the car radio than a new battery. The radio will still function as is. Form and great. If you want to make the battery live longer, then a new alternator may be the better choice for the reasons you have.​

I suppose I should have waited for the "expert" to weigh in with a non-answer.
Op... I've got no counter argument for this bot. Exponentially non-sensical responses with enough technical jargon to dazzle the masses.
It's hard enough to post on this forum due to multiple keyboard warriors without fighting bots and the farms that support their responses.

But take his advice by all means, please let the forum how it works out for you.

Lmfao