Need help with sub box design

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[Buck 5,000+ posts]

What's the RMS wattage?

 

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[Buck 5,000+ posts]

3000 per sub.

Haha omfg. 42-43 hz Fs and 36 xmax with 3000w, dude, do a slot almost certainly. You could model port speeds in winisd, but I'd be willing to bet you need a honker of a square or slot port. What vehicle is it going in and where in the vehicle?

 

[HardofWhoring]

Haha omfg. 42-43 hz Fs and 36 xmax with 3000w, dude, do a slot almost certainly. You could model port speeds in winisd, but I'd be willing to bet you need a honker of a square or slot port. What vehicle is it going in and where in the vehicle?

2000 Camry bro, WhereTF have you been?

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

If this is going in the trunk then it's gonna be huge, I mean depending on tuning, but damn that's 6kw and 5-5.5 cubes net internal needed. I'd be thinking more along the lines of a wall or series 6th wall vs an aero port. If those are decent subs, then I mean that box probably needs to be massive to be like max efficiency of the woofers working. Tuning will make a big difference in box size with a large port, like you're probably looking at a box size externally of like 7 cubes or more to maximize those, just roughly speaking. You can somewhat get away with less port area in trunks firing rear or not forwards, but IMO not really with 6000w, like I just don't see that working well unless you have a very large aero and tune it to like 40 hz to keep the box small and the port length small enough, but that's gonna be peaky as hell and unload somewhat quickly, drop off on lows. You also can make the box too tall or wide or deep where 6kw worth of air pressure is having to barely squeeze its way in between the trunk walls and the box walls, gotta be careful there. And with firing forward and not sealing, you can run into cancellation issues with the trunk walls and box walls depth and airspace (airspace around the box inside of the trunk) acting like a t-line or a secondary ported box and phasing out certain frequencies. That can be a very big issue.

 

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[Buck 5,000+ posts]

With that much power, you probably should work with somebody with a box design. I can't do it, but you wouldn't wanna waste that significant of a system, just a thought.

 

[Firewalker]

IIRC some people at diyma are still doing box design for a small fee. I would go there and ask.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Think I did these in Bass Box pro. Looked pretty decent in 5.75, slotted, 5.5 6" round, tuned to around 30hz?

 

[djdilliodon!]

Big coils and high FS, like I’ve mentioned in the other thread, big box, power hungry, and the low end output won’t ever be anything amazing. The sound of subs like this aren’t my cup of tea either. If you like most of the output above 40-45hz then you may love it.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

39x16x20. double .75" face and bracing too.

 

[Buck 5,000+ posts]

Think I did these in Bass Box pro. Looked pretty decent in 5.75, slotted, 5.5 6" round, tuned to around 30hz?

A single 6" aero is not gonna do these justice IMO.

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

Big coils and high FS, like I’ve mentioned in the other thread, big box, power hungry, and the low end output won’t ever be anything amazing. The sound of subs like this aren’t my cup of tea either. If you like most of the output above 40-45hz then you may love it.

There are always compromises when dealing with the end goal of very high input/output. It modeled pretty good from about 33+

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

A single 6" aero is not gonna do these justice IMO.

Yeah, I'd have to go back in and see what the vent velocity looked like. A slot might be much better but then we're talking about a bigger box still, which, it appears would work too. Originally looked at the least obtrusive options prior to getting the largest box that the OP would consider. Those 12's are beasts!

 

[djdilliodon!]

There are always compromises when dealing with the end goal of very high input/output. It modeled pretty good from about 33+

To a degree, that is correct but a poor design you get all the compromises. Those TS specs I’d also take with a grain of salt. That sub is made by JLD audio also known as Jiaxing Jinlida Electron Co., Ltd. It is an off the shelf sub they offer in their catalog using a 4” Chinese coil. Guys around here buy them from alibaba all the time for about $175-$250. They are built pretty good for that price point, take power, and can get loud too. Sq wise, low end output and the mark up paid for another name slapped on the dust cap, they fall short. If some likes to get loud from around 40-45 hz and up, these will do the job perfectly. They will need a large enclosure to get the most low end possible.

 

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To a degree, that is correct but a poor design you get all the compromises. Those TS specs I’d also take with a grain of salt. That sub is made by JLD audio also known as Jiaxing Jinlida Electron Co., Ltd. It is an off the shelf sub they offer in their catalog using a 4” Chinese coil. Guys around here buy them from alibaba all the time for about $175-$250. They are built pretty good for that price point, take power, and can get loud too. Sq wise, low end output and the mark up paid for another name slapped on the dust cap, they fall short. If some likes to get loud from around 40-45 hz and up, these will do the job perfectly. They will need a large enclosure to get the most low end possible.

I got plenty of trunk space. I'd say I got a big trunk but the mirror states otherwise... LOL!

 

[Doxquzme Premium Member]

To a degree, that is correct but a poor design you get all the compromises. Those TS specs I’d also take with a grain of salt. That sub is made by JLD audio also known as Jiaxing Jinlida Electron Co., Ltd. It is an off the shelf sub they offer in their catalog using a 4” Chinese coil. Guys around here buy them from alibaba all the time for about $175-$250. They are built pretty good for that price point, take power, and can get loud too. Sq wise, low end output and the mark up paid for another name slapped on the dust cap, they fall short. If some likes to get loud from around 40-45 hz and up, these will do the job perfectly. They will need a large enclosure to get the most low end possible.

That build house has about 88 different woofers they make, i don't see any that have 4" VCs or that can handle that kind of power, not saying the info is not correct, just didn't see anything there. As for the box, always as important as what is going in it, for sure. For the 140+db the OP is shooting for, these BlackBrick subs tuned to 34-37 hz should be a good compromise.

 

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[djdilliodon!]

That build house has about 88 different woofers they make, i don't see any that have 4" VCs or that can handle that kind of power, not saying the info is not correct, just didn't see anything there. As for the box, always as important as what is going in it, for sure. For the 140+db the OP is shooting for, these BlackBrick subs tuned to 34-37 hz should be a good compromise.

For 4” coil subs, if they don’t have them listed, you can contact them directly on alibaba or their website. I haven’t viewed their stuff in some time but I can pretty much tell what build house is used just looking at a sub most of the time. I’d bet money JLD makes that sub, I’ve seen the none branded ones before. JLD also makes many of the smaller 8’s and 6.5’s you see that are beefy. The other popular build house is Ningbo which makes most of the subs for deaf bonce. This is as common as dirt this practice now, there is only a handful that actually even assemble subs in house let alone make motors. It’s the same deal with amps now too along with pro audio midranges and everything else. There is also a way to look up who these companies do business with, and you will see the names of companies here in the USA right on the list.