Need help with loose subwoofer response

Isolationist

Junior Member
[This is my first post here. My sincerest apologies if this is posted in the wrong section.]

So, a few days ago, I had my system cranked a little bit and, during one song in particular, there's a breakdown with a pretty heavy bass drop. After this bass drop, I lost bass for a couple seconds and, ever since then, I feel like my bass has "lost" its punch; I get a lot of low frequency rumble, perhaps too much, and not enough of the mid-frequency punch that I had gotten for about two months. I gave the sub plenty of break-in time (well above the 30 hours that Polk Audio recommended), and have even taken it past that point many times before. The amp still has plenty of flex and, when I went to inspect it in the trunk, I didn't smell anything out of the ordinary. The subwoofer sounds a little floppy and I feel a lot of the bass with my feet, but not a lot on my back.

Things I can deduce from the current situation:

1. The amp is still functional or else I wouldn't be getting any bass at all, and my headlights still dim.

2. The subwoofer cone is still intact, no perforations, no holes, no tears, nothing.

This is my current setup:

Pioneer GM-5400T Amp, 760W

10" Polk Audio Subwoofer (DB1040)

Pioneer MVH-X560BT Head Unit

4 Pioneer speakers in-door

I just want to know if I fried something in the amp or the subwoofer. My friend suggested that the box might've lost its seal, but I feel that it could be something else. Any help is much appreciated.

 
Polk audio is a really low end brand. a friend of mine blew his 12 within a month of regular play. get a better sub it sounds like something is wrong with your spider

 

---------- Post added at 02:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:05 AM ----------

 

I'm no expert I'm just making an assumption

 
[quote name='Isolationist']@Jeffdachef

Did this affect my amplifier at all? Like, can I continue to use this amp?

I'm sorry, I'm a novice when it comes to this stuff. I just got this system a couple of months ago and had my friend set it up.[/QUOTE]

Google up how to set gains with a digital multimeter and check your amps for signal power output.

Also even if your friend set it up right, if you play music with unusually strong basslines, you can easily overdrive the signal imto clipping and distortion. Low voltages from an inadequate electrical system can cause clipping and distortion too. Systems are delicate you need to know the limits and consequences for passing that limit.
 
Understood. Thanks for the advice, friend. I just needed to know what I have to do now.
first off you should get an amp for your sub alone. you won't do anything special running a sub on that amp. I'd suggest getting something cea certified 500-600 and looking at Rockfords punch series. they put out some bass for what they are. or the soundqubed hds2 series. you need a New sub for sure and I'd recommend a New amp for your sub

 
first off you should get an amp for your sub alone. you won't do anything special running a sub on that amp. I'd suggest getting something cea certified 500-600 and looking at Rockfords punch series. they put out some bass for what they are. or the soundqubed hds2 series. you need a New sub for sure and I'd recommend a New amp for your sub
cea dont mean shitt....

your amps fine unless you want more power.

but you need a sub.

what size box do you have??

you need to find a sub that will work good in that box.

 
cea means plenty when choosing the right amp for your sub.. if your bridging it at or around 200 Mrs at 4 ohms get a p1 Rockford 12 s4. cheap on Amazon and they are pretty nice. Rockford r1 is nice for what it is too. I once had 2 of them.

 
cea means plenty when choosing the right amp for your sub.. if your bridging it at or around 200 Mrs at 4 ohms get a p1 Rockford 12 s4. cheap on Amazon and they are pretty nice. Rockford r1 is nice for what it is too. I once had 2 of them.
Cea is a joke when it comes to monoblocks. It only makes rms at 4 ohms, nothing about what the amp does at 2 ohms or 1 ohm. Even hifonics and dual amps have cea stickers...

Rockford p1s are just as low end as the polks he had.

 
I've heard Polk and Rockford r1s side by side ... r1s being the absolute lowest sub of rf and there was a decent difference. my kicker amp was certified at 4 and 2. my ct sounds was certified at even 1 ohm. I'm just trying to wade him away from spending 80 bucks on an '1100 watt' boss amp. cea certification has never failed me.

 
I've heard Polk and Rockford r1s side by side ... r1s being the absolute lowest sub of rf and there was a decent difference. my kicker amp was certified at 4 and 2. my ct sounds was certified at even 1 ohm. I'm just trying to wade him away from spending 80 bucks on an '1100 watt' boss amp. cea certification has never failed me.
Idk where you are getting your information but all cea testing is at 4 ohms, they never certify anything lower than 4 ohms. Your claims are misinformed man.

 
I had a certificate in my box from kicker itself saying it makes at 670rms @ 2 ohms .. its sent,out for a warranty replacement because I ran it at 1 ohm but I should have it by Monday or Tuesday. I'll send you a picture of the certificate.

 
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Isolationist

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