Need help with alternator amp calculation.

bushthekid

CarAudio.com Newbie
I’m fairly new to car audio, never really did a setup quite as large as I’m planning to do until now but I'm unsure what steps I would need to take in order to calculate the total amp draw of my vehicle factory, in addition to this I’m not sure how accurate my calculation is for the audio equipment I plan on installing. I have a 2019 ford f-150 with the 5.0 v8 engine. Here’s a list of what I’m planning on installing:

Kicker 51KFDL7T102​

Sony XAV-AX4000 (head unit)​

Kicker 46CXA1200.1T​

Kicker 46CSC674 (X4)​

And additionally a full marine speaker setup for tailgating:

I would strongly appreciate advice on if all these things go together well or not, or if I’m missing anything from my setup, in addition to any information I can get on the alternator as well as any recommendations to which manufacturer I should be buying from.
 
I’m fairly new to car audio, never really did a setup quite as large as I’m planning to do until now but I'm unsure what steps I would need to take in order to calculate the total amp draw of my vehicle factory, in addition to this I’m not sure how accurate my calculation is for the audio equipment I plan on installing. I have a 2019 ford f-150 with the 5.0 v8 engine. Here’s a list of what I’m planning on installing:

Kicker 51KFDL7T102​

Sony XAV-AX4000 (head unit)​

Kicker 46CXA1200.1T​

Kicker 46CSC674 (X4)​

And additionally a full marine speaker setup for tailgating:

I would strongly appreciate advice on if all these things go together well or not, or if I’m missing anything from my setup, in addition to any information I can get on the alternator as well as any recommendations to which manufacturer I should be buying from.
Calculating the total amp draw for your factory vehicle, especially with the components you plan to install, is a crucial step in ensuring your electrical system can handle the load. Since you're setting up a system with significant power demands, let's break down the process step-by-step.

### Step 1: Calculate the Amp Draw of Your Components

1. Kicker 51KFDL7T102 (Subwoofer):
- You need to check the RMS power handling, which typically is around 600-750 Watts for this model. For calculations, let’s assume 750 Watts.
- Formula: Amps = Watts / Volts
- Since your car’s electrical system runs on 12V, the draw will be:
\[
\text{Amps} = 750W / 12V \approx 62.5A
\]

2. Sony XAV-AX4000 (Head Unit):
- Head units usually draw around 10-15 Watts. Let’s use 15 Watts for a safer estimate:
\[
\text{Amps} = 15W / 12V \approx 1.25A
\]

3. Kicker 46CXA1200.1T (Mono Amplifier):
- This amp might draw up to 1200 Watts at max load. Let’s assume you’re aiming for about 1000 Watts realistically:
\[
\text{Amps} = 1000W / 12V \approx 83.3A
\]

4. Kicker 46CSC674 (4 Speakers):
- Assuming each speaker is around 60 Watts RMS:
\[
\text{Total Watts} = 240W \quad (\text{for 4 speakers})
\]
\[
\text{Amps} = 240W / 12V \approx 20A
\]

5. Marine Speaker Setup (from the link):
- If you're planning on using 4 marine speakers, and assuming each is around 75 Watts RMS:
\[
\text{Total Watts} = 300W \quad (\text{for 4 speakers})
\]
\[
\text{Amps} = 300W / 12V \approx 25A
\]

### Step 2: Total Amp Draw Calculation

Now add up all the amp draws:
  • Kicker Subwoofer: 62.5A
  • Head Unit: 1.25A
  • Kicker Amplifier: 83.3A
  • Kicker Speakers: 20A
  • Marine System: 25A

### Total:
\[
\text{Total Amps} = 62.5 + 1.25 + 83.3 + 20 + 25 = 192.05A
\]

### Step 3: Assess Your Alternator and Electrical System

You’ll need to verify the capacity of your alternator on your 2019 Ford F-150 with the 5.0 V8. Most stock alternators can generate around 150-200 Amps. To handle peak loads (like starting the vehicle), it’s recommended to have an alternator that can handle about 150% of your total amp draw.
For your case, you might need an upgraded alternator (like a high-output model) to maintain reliability without draining your battery or risking voltage drops.

### Recommendations for Installation

1. Wiring: Ensure you use the proper gauge wiring. Typically, for a system drawing around 192A, you'll want 1/0 AWG for power and ground.
2. Fuses: Use appropriate fuses for each component -- for example, a 100A fuse for the Kicker amplifier.
3. Capacitance: If you're experiencing voltage drops, adding a capacitor can help stabilize voltage during peaks.

### Compatibility and Recommendations

1. Component Compatibility: Everything looks compatible; ensure your subwoofer amp matches the impedance of the subwoofer and speakers.
2. Manufacturer Recommendations: Always consider reputable brands: Kicker, Sony, Rockville (for marine audio), and consider additional equipment from brands like Sundown, Alpine, or Rockford Fosgate.

Please ensure you consult your owner’s manual and the installation guidelines for all equipment. If you have specific preferences or additional questions about installation or tuning, feel free to ask!

I invite other members to also chime in with their insights or recommendations!
 
Hello Kentucky!


Welcome to the Audioholics Anonymous fan club!


Knowing the total amperage "potential" draw and having a realistic expectation based on real-world use are two different things, but not mutually exclusive.

Before you get into the mounds of minutiae about what everyone's opinion is on what you should do, I encourage you to watch this video on amperage draw so you have a baseline understanding of what to expect (draw +/-, depending on your application and setup).





Love that Sony HU, great unit.


Before getting into the gear, let's talk about the plan and the installation thereof; all the best gear in the world is wasted on a poor installation, start there.

As for the boat system, not sure if I follow the plan.

Normally, we’d be talking two separate systems, but the way I read this, you're talking about hooking up the boat system to the truck's system, to use for tailgating?

Better ways to do that, MUCH better ways if that is the need or want. Having manual on/off power options to a stand-alone high-powered amplifier, hooked up to a pair of inexpensive PA speakers would do substantially better, and cost less too.

For instance, you turn off power to the truck's amplifiers with a single rocker switch that is wired to a 12V, 20A 4-ch relay, and turn on a separate high-powered 2 or 4-ch amp connected to a pair of these on stands, total rocking it tailgate setup!

Here’s an example of what I’m talking about.

The head unit is powered on for either setup, or both; you determine this manually.

By using the Sony remote turn-on wire, which powers up the relay, then select which part of the system to run, turn on, or off manually:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FFH496C2/?tag=caraudiocom-20

From that relay, you then have a 2-, 3-, or 4-way rocker switch panel in the truck, and wire the relay to the truck's primary and subwoofer remote turn-on so you could play the truck system or the tailgate systems with or without the subwoofer.


The picture is just an example (and you'd likely have smaller PA speakers on stands) of the way that works, not what you’d be using after the switches. But this is an option and would leave you with a separate system in the boat (recommended).


1780773142196.png
 
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Hello Kentucky!


Welcome to the Audioholics Anonymous fan club!


Knowing the total amperage "potential" draw and having a realistic expectation based on real-world use are two different things, but not mutually exclusive.

Before you get into the mounds of minutiae about what everyone's opinion is on what you should do, I encourage you to watch this video on amperage draw so you have a baseline understanding of what to expect (draw +/-, depending on your application and setup).





Love that Sony HU, great unit.


Before getting into the gear, let's talk about the plan and the installation thereof; all the best gear in the world is wasted on a poor installation, start there.

As for the boat system, not sure if I follow the plan.

Normally, we’d be talking two separate systems, but the way I read this, you're talking about hooking up the boat system to the truck's system, to use for tailgating?

Better ways to do that, MUCH better ways if that is the need or want. Having manual on/off power options to a stand-alone high-powered amplifier, hooked up to a pair of inexpensive PA speakers would do substantially better, and cost less too.

For instance, you turn off power to the truck's amplifiers with a single rocker switch that is wired to a 12V, 20A 4-ch relay, and turn on a separate high-powered 2 or 4-ch amp connected to a pair of these on stands, total rocking it tailgate setup!

Here’s an example of what I’m talking about.

The head unit is powered on for either setup, or both; you determine this manually.

By using the Sony remote turn-on wire, which powers up the relay, then select which part of the system to run, turn on, or off manually:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FFH496C2/?tag=caraudiocom-20

From that relay, you then have a 2-, 3-, or 4-way rocker switch panel in the truck, and wire the relay to the truck's primary and subwoofer remote turn-on so you could play the truck system or the tailgate systems with or without the subwoofer.


The picture is just an example (and you'd likely have smaller PA speakers on stands) of the way that works, not what you’d be using after the switches. But this is an option and would leave you with a separate system in the boat (recommended).


View attachment 72070

The plan with the marine speaker setup is indeed going onto the truck, all 4 speakers in the bed on a bar with a switch to turn on/off from the rest of the setup. Here’s a video example of what I plan on doing, not the same equipment but you’ll get the idea
 
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Essentially, what I was suggesting.

Lots of equipment options; many that will outperform the Kicker at the Kicker prices, perform as well at lower pricing - good prducts so not a bad choice, but lots of other options avaible.
 
Last edited:
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