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Need help with alternator amp calculation.
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8924728" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>Hello Kentucky!</p><p></p><p></p><p>Welcome to the Audioholics Anonymous fan club!</p><p></p><p></p><p>Knowing the total amperage "potential" draw and having a realistic expectation based on real-world use are two different things, but not mutually exclusive.</p><p></p><p>Before you get into the mounds of minutiae about what everyone's opinion is on what you should do, I encourage you to watch this video on amperage draw so you have a baseline understanding of what to expect (draw +/-, depending on your application and setup).</p><p></p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]M8RisjTngt8[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p></p><p>Love that Sony HU, great unit.</p><p></p><p></p><p>Before getting into the gear, let's talk about the plan and the installation thereof; all the best gear in the world is wasted on a poor installation, start there.</p><p></p><p>As for the boat system, not sure if I follow the plan.</p><p></p><p>Normally, we’d be talking two separate systems, but the way I read this, you're talking about hooking up the boat system to the truck's system, to use for tailgating?</p><p></p><p>Better ways to do that, MUCH better ways if that is the need or want. Having manual on/off power options to a stand-alone high-powered amplifier, hooked up to a pair of inexpensive PA speakers would do substantially better, and cost less too.</p><p></p><p>For instance, you turn off power to the truck's amplifiers with a single rocker switch that is wired to a 12V, 20A 4-ch relay, and turn on a separate high-powered 2 or 4-ch amp connected to a pair of these on stands, total rocking it tailgate setup!</p><p></p><p>Here’s an example of what I’m talking about.</p><p></p><p>The head unit is powered on for either setup, or both; you determine this manually.</p><p></p><p>By using the Sony remote turn-on wire, which powers up the relay, then select which part of the system to run, turn on, or off manually:</p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FFH496C2/?tag=caraudiocom-20" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FFH496C2/?tag=caraudiocom-20</a></p><p></p><p>From that relay, you then have a 2-, 3-, or 4-way rocker switch panel in the truck, and wire the relay to the truck's primary and subwoofer remote turn-on so you could play the truck system or the tailgate systems with or without the subwoofer.</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NXNH68W/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL]</p><p></p><p>The picture is just an example (and you'd likely have smaller PA speakers on stands) of the way that works, not what you’d be using after the switches. But this is an option and would leave you with a separate system in the boat (recommended).</p><p></p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]72070[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8924728, member: 689267"] Hello Kentucky! Welcome to the Audioholics Anonymous fan club! Knowing the total amperage "potential" draw and having a realistic expectation based on real-world use are two different things, but not mutually exclusive. Before you get into the mounds of minutiae about what everyone's opinion is on what you should do, I encourage you to watch this video on amperage draw so you have a baseline understanding of what to expect (draw +/-, depending on your application and setup). [MEDIA=youtube]M8RisjTngt8[/MEDIA] Love that Sony HU, great unit. Before getting into the gear, let's talk about the plan and the installation thereof; all the best gear in the world is wasted on a poor installation, start there. As for the boat system, not sure if I follow the plan. Normally, we’d be talking two separate systems, but the way I read this, you're talking about hooking up the boat system to the truck's system, to use for tailgating? Better ways to do that, MUCH better ways if that is the need or want. Having manual on/off power options to a stand-alone high-powered amplifier, hooked up to a pair of inexpensive PA speakers would do substantially better, and cost less too. For instance, you turn off power to the truck's amplifiers with a single rocker switch that is wired to a 12V, 20A 4-ch relay, and turn on a separate high-powered 2 or 4-ch amp connected to a pair of these on stands, total rocking it tailgate setup! Here’s an example of what I’m talking about. The head unit is powered on for either setup, or both; you determine this manually. By using the Sony remote turn-on wire, which powers up the relay, then select which part of the system to run, turn on, or off manually: [URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FFH496C2/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL] From that relay, you then have a 2-, 3-, or 4-way rocker switch panel in the truck, and wire the relay to the truck's primary and subwoofer remote turn-on so you could play the truck system or the tailgate systems with or without the subwoofer. [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NXNH68W/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL] The picture is just an example (and you'd likely have smaller PA speakers on stands) of the way that works, not what you’d be using after the switches. But this is an option and would leave you with a separate system in the boat (recommended). [ATTACH type="full"]72070[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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