Need help with active system set-up!

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and I believe my setup is like this even in my HU I set my Networks with these settings

"going active" sounds more complicated than it is. With your equipment, I agree it is the right approach and it saves you from having to install a 2.2uF cap on the tweeters.
Simply wire from each speaker (tweeter or woofer) to the amp. Example:

Left tweeter in amp channel 1

Right tweeter on amp channel 2

Left woofer on amp channel 3

Right woofer on amp channel 4

From the HU, run a RCA pair from front/high out to channels 1&2 input. And run a RCA pair from rear/mid out to channels 3&4 input.

The front/high out will be setup in network mode for high pass crossover at 5kHz 18 dB/oct

The rear/mid out will be setup in network mode for band pass crossover at 80Hz 24dB/oct and 5kHz 18dB/oct

Running them in coaxial mode is a waste of equipment.

If you can't grasp these concepts, just ask for help from someone who does.
 
I wouldn't play with anything until you've pulled the entire system out and started from scratch. Take pictures of every section and connection you're confused or not sure about so we can help you. And no... your door woofers go up front man. I don't know where you got the idea that they belong in the rear. Component speakers are speakers that work together, you want them together, up front. Also, what vehicle is this all being installed in?


Absolutely. You need to pull out the ENTIRE system. Everything should be unhooked and started from scratch. You "friend" did everything wrong imaginable. You need to order a proper amp kit, with proper speaker wire, and proper RCAs. You need to be able to either solder your speaker wires on, or use spade terminals. What amp will you be using to power those subwoofers?
He "set" my speakers up front, but put the RCA in the rear lol sorry I didn't make that clear. what kit should i get? and how the hell am i going to get those glue off? Im thinking about getting a ab vfl 120.1 to power my 3 sundown 8's. Its going to be in a 95 Camaro

 
He "set" my speakers up front, but put the RCA in the rear lol sorry I didn't make that clear. what kit should i get? and how the hell am i going to get those glue off?
OH, okay, you're fine with that then haha, I was very confused. The kit that you get, well be determined on how big of an amp you plan to get to power those subwoofers. Chances are though, you will need a 0 gauge kit. What amplifier you get will determine if you need an OFC or CCA kit. If he used super glue on the speaker wire, being patient and rubbing some acetone (nail polish remover) on them, will break down the glue without harming anything. If he used a hot glue gun, you'll probably have to heat it up a bit, maybe use a fresh soldering iron, or try prying the glue off.

As for who to buy the amp kit from, I'd highly recommend AudioTechnix, as one of the quickest growing accessory companies in the game right now. Here's a page to their amplifier kits on here, they may have better deals going on, but you'd have to ask: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/audio-technix/549646-audio-technix-amp-kits.html

The bad news is, is that you're like going to need and OFC amp kit, and that's another $105. But we won't know for sure until you tell us how much power you're looking to run to those subs.

Also, here is a review I just did on their amp kit: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/audio-technix/556009-review-0-gauge-amp-kit-wiring-accessories.html

and I believe my setup is like this even in my HU I set my Networks with these settings
I would still pull everything out and make sure everything is connected properly. Like I said, your "friend" did everything wrong. You should start from scratch to ensure you don't ruin hundreds of dollars worth of equipment. At least pull out the head unit and take pictures so we can make sure they look okay.

 
OH, okay, you're fine with that then haha, I was very confused. The kit that you get, well be determined on how big of an amp you plan to get to power those subwoofers. Chances are though, you will need a 0 gauge kit. What amplifier you get will determine if you need an OFC or CCA kit. If he used super glue on the speaker wire, being patient and rubbing some acetone (nail polish remover) on them, will break down the glue without harming anything. If he used a hot glue gun, you'll probably have to heat it up a bit, maybe use a fresh soldering iron, or try prying the glue off.As for who to buy the amp kit from, I'd highly recommend AudioTechnix, as one of the quickest growing accessory companies in the game right now. Here's a page to their amplifier kits on here, they may have better deals going on, but you'd have to ask: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/audio-technix/549646-audio-technix-amp-kits.html

The bad news is, is that you're like going to need and OFC amp kit, and that's another $105. But we won't know for sure until you tell us how much power you're looking to run to those subs.

Also, here is a review I just did on their amp kit: http://www.caraudio.com/forums/audio-technix/556009-review-0-gauge-amp-kit-wiring-accessories.html

I would still pull everything out and make sure everything is connected properly. Like I said, your "friend" did everything wrong. You should start from scratch to ensure you don't ruin hundreds of dollars worth of equipment. At least pull out the head unit and take pictures so we can make sure they look okay.
I'm thinking about getting the ab vfl 120.1. Would that be to much for my 3 8" sundown? and do I need to get a amp kit for my front stage or just use the same wires I have in my car right now and just upgrade what I need to upgrade? and thanks for the help man. Its much appriected!

And i'll post pics this weekend!

 
I would still pull everything out and make sure everything is connected properly. Like I said, your "friend" did everything wrong. You should start from scratch to ensure you don't ruin hundreds of dollars worth of equipment. At least pull out the head unit and take pictures so we can make sure they look okay.
Yep. put it all in your bedroom and make sure that car is wired, deadened, sealed, and prepped front to back before putting any of it back in. You have quality gear, bro. Give it a quality home.

 
I'm thinking about getting the ab vfl 120.1. Would that be to much for my 3 8" sundown? and do I need to get a amp kit for my front stage or just use the same wires I have in my car right now and just upgrade what I need to upgrade? and thanks for the help man. Its much appriected!
And i'll post pics this weekend!
Nope, I think that's a very reasonable amount of power for the subs, and a great place to start. What I am concerned about though, is if you have enough electrical to support that? What vehicle do you have, what is the size of the alternator, and you'll need a big AGM battery under the hood, and probably another back in your trunk or back seat or hatch or whatever you have. You will only need one amplifier kit, but you'll need a couple things in addition to it. Like a distribution block, and some 4 gauge wire to go to your RF amp. With that level of power though, I think your best bet would be going with that OFC 0 gauge kit from AudioTechnix, which is unfortunately $105. You may find other kits for cheaper, but they will either not be true OFC wire, or will not have everything else you need. The only cheaper option would be this kit: Knukonceptz product detail for CLOSE OUT - IXOS 0 GAUGE POWER KIT which as I said, doesn't have everything you need. It's missing RCA, which you could probably get cheap, it's up to you. And then you'd still have to order a distribution block, and more 4 gauge power wire to hook up your amps proper. This kit here: 0 GAUGE DUAL AMP POWER KIT is $132 but it has the distribution block and the extra 4 gauge wire you'd need. But again, it doesn't have the RCA. So I think your best deal would be to order the kit from AudioTechnix, and have them throw in another four feet of 4ga power wire, and three feet of 4ga ground wire, and get a distribution block from someone off the forum here for a few bucks. It'd probably be about the same as the other options, but you might save a little money on shipping with everything together.

As for having to upgrade the wire for the door speakers, I'm not sure. If it's all quality 14 gauge, then that will be fine, you just need to make sure it's connected and ran properly.

I strongly suggest you do not turn on your system until you have the opportunity to unhook everything and ensure it's connected properly, unless you're willing to risk ruining everything.

 
Nope, I think that's a very reasonable amount of power for the subs, and a great place to start. What I am concerned about though, is if you have enough electrical to support that? What vehicle do you have, what is the size of the alternator, and you'll need a big AGM battery under the hood, and probably another back in your trunk or back seat or hatch or whatever you have. You will only need one amplifier kit, but you'll need a couple things in addition to it. Like a distribution block, and some 4 gauge wire to go to your RF amp. With that level of power though, I think your best bet would be going with that OFC 0 gauge kit from AudioTechnix, which is unfortunately $105. You may find other kits for cheaper, but they will either not be true OFC wire, or will not have everything else you need. The only cheaper option would be this kit: Knukonceptz product detail for CLOSE OUT - IXOS 0 GAUGE POWER KIT which as I said, doesn't have everything you need. It's missing RCA, which you could probably get cheap, it's up to you. And then you'd still have to order a distribution block, and more 4 gauge power wire to hook up your amps proper. This kit here: 0 GAUGE DUAL AMP POWER KIT is $132 but it has the distribution block and the extra 4 gauge wire you'd need. But again, it doesn't have the RCA. So I think your best deal would be to order the kit from AudioTechnix, and have them throw in another four feet of 4ga power wire, and three feet of 4ga ground wire, and get a distribution block from someone off the forum here for a few bucks. It'd probably be about the same as the other options, but you might save a little money on shipping with everything together. As for having to upgrade the wire for the door speakers, I'm not sure. If it's all quality 14 gauge, then that will be fine, you just need to make sure it's connected and ran properly.

I strongly suggest you do not turn on your system until you have the opportunity to unhook everything and ensure it's connected properly, unless you're willing to risk ruining everything.
I have a 95 camaro with the old bose system setup, which I think it has a stock 140 amp alt. and i got This as my rca cable for my front stage, so all I would need is that kit, new battery,distribution block, 4 gauge wire and maybe some 14 guage wire.

 
I have a 95 camaro with the old bose system setup, which I think it has a stock 140 amp alt. and i got This as my rca cable for my front stage, so all I would need is that kit, new battery,distribution block, 4 gauge wire and maybe some 14 guage wire.
Ok, those RCA gotcha started good. Yea, if you buy that Amp kit from AudioTechnix (hereby referred to as AT), you'll just need a little more 4 gauge wire, a distribution block, and probably some more speaker wire. Use 14 gauge to finish your doors. I'd recommend some good 10 gauge for your subwoofers though.

As for the batteries, you're going to need to look into AGM batteries. You'll definitely need one in the back. And you could probably benefit with replacing the one under your hood. Two big solid batteries, paired with that 140a alt, and you'll be off to a good start. When it comes down to it, we'll walk you through setting your gains appropriately and figuring out if your electrical will be adequate enough.

 
that amp is 1200 rms right? if so a single agm deep cycle along with the big 3 and your stock alt would be fine one agm in the back is a bad idea you kinda need to do both at once if your going to do that, as far as amp wire a good true 4g wire will carry a lot more then you think and is easier to run heck 9' is safe for 200 amps of constant current.

 
that amp is 1200 rms right? if so a single agm deep cycle along with the big 3 and your stock alt would be fine one agm in the back is a bad idea you kinda need to do both at once if your going to do that, as far as amp wire a good true 4g wire will carry a lot more then you think and is easier to run heck 9' is safe for 200 amps of constant current.
It's a 2200w amp bud.

 
Ok, those RCA gotcha started good. Yea, if you buy that Amp kit from AudioTechnix (hereby referred to as AT), you'll just need a little more 4 gauge wire, a distribution block, and probably some more speaker wire. Use 14 gauge to finish your doors. I'd recommend some good 10 gauge for your subwoofers though.As for the batteries, you're going to need to look into AGM batteries. You'll definitely need one in the back. And you could probably benefit with replacing the one under your hood. Two big solid batteries, paired with that 140a alt, and you'll be off to a good start. When it comes down to it, we'll walk you through setting your gains appropriately and figuring out if your electrical will be adequate enough.
Alright i'll get it, but I'll probably work on my front stage this weekend if my wire comes in before the weekend and work on my subs next weekend or the weekend after. I got to have someone build me a box ha.

Didn't we talk about this? this update doesn't sound familiar. Hit me up.
Ya we did, but I gave my buddie those instruction and it turn out horrible. I was to lazy to run new wires through my camaro and now I learn my lesson and just do it on my own with your guys help lol.

 
Yep. put it all in your bedroom and make sure that car is wired, deadened, sealed, and prepped front to back before putting any of it back in. You have quality gear, bro. Give it a quality home.
Is deadened my front doors really going to make a difference? and if so which size should I get 60 Mil or 80 Mil?

 
Is deadened my front doors really going to make a difference? and if so which size should I get 60 Mil or 80 Mil?
It makes a tremendous difference. I did my front doors, and my trunk lid, and my rear deck. Night and day difference, it brought all new life to my system. I only used the 60mil. I'm sure you'd notice a difference with the 60mil as well. If you want even better performance and don't mind shelling out the extra cash, 80mil could only be better.

 
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