need help with a 4-way active frontstage! thanks!

[vaiboy 10+ year member]

Here is a diagram that should help. I would split the low channel with a nice 2 way electronic crossover. Set the crossover on your deck to bandpass your low channels to cover the frequency range between your subs and ribbons. Then set the crossover point on the 2 way crossover to divide the frequencies between the mids and midbass. Personally I like the AudioControl 2XS crossover, it's harder to set the crossover point but it's more accurate than turning a dial.

View attachment 26525125

 

[strkrfan13 10+ year member]

vaiboy i REALLY appreciate you taking the time to make this diagram it is helping me very much as i am a visual learner. THANKYOU! also what do you mean its harder to set the 2xs? what crossover set points do you think i should cross them over at? thanks again

 

[strkrfan13 10+ year member]

btw the morel 9" freq range is 20-3300 and the hertz 6.5's range is 40-7000.

 

[The_Grimy_One 10+ year member]

i read that ribbons only need like 10 watts. i could b wrong...

 

[strkrfan13 10+ year member]

i wouldn't be suprised grimy one! they scream with the amp gain on min.

 

---------- Post added at 01:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:33 PM ----------

 

actually thinking about adding a audio control matrix linedriver before the amps then we'll see how they really sound! haha

 

[vaiboy 10+ year member]

vaiboy i REALLY appreciate you taking the time to make this diagram it is helping me very much as i am a visual learner. THANKYOU! also what do you mean its harder to set the 2xs? what crossover set points do you think i should cross them over at? thanks again

The 2XS doesn't use dials to set the crossover frequency, the crossover frequency is fixed but programmable, it uses a resistor module to set the frequency. You can buy new modules from a dealer or build your own if you know how to solder. The 2XS includes a 90hz module but that is way too low for your setup, for midbass you should cross in the 300-500hz range. You might want to temporarily run your mid outputs to the mid and low outputs to the midbass so you can try different crossover frequencies using your head unit. When you find the point that blends best for you just buy/build a module for that frequncy and you're set.

 

[strkrfan13 10+ year member]

how bout ppi's 2/3way active xover? Precision Power EPX223

 

[vaiboy 10+ year member]

That PPI crossover should work and the detented adjustments are better than barely marked dials.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

I have a similar setup where I'm running 8" sub-mids in the doors LPF'd at 80hz. My 6.5s, tweets, etc are on passive using a HPF set to 100hz at the amp.Once you get that dialed in, it will sound awesome. I would love to have a front stage like that.

You have speakers running 20-80hz in your doors?

 

[strkrfan13 10+ year member]

You have speakers running 20-80hz in your doors?

yes more like 35hz to 80hz

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

I agree with the diagram above... depending on what you want to T/A.

whatever you combine on HU outputs, share the same T/A setting.

i may rescind my previous statement. let's think about this:

I would want to T/A the mid, woofer, and midbass uniquely. the tweeter should be above 5kHz where ITD doesn't matter and IID does. meaning you're more concerned about tweeter level (and diffraction) than arrival time (for a sound stage). T/A on the sub, that low, really won't make much of a difference.

With T/A in mind, you could also put the crossover between the tweeter and mid amps, or between the midbass and woofer amps. after further thinking, your sound stage could suffer if you combine the midrange and midbass. it all depends on location and crossover point/slope. i'd need to listen to the car to determine which was optimal.

you want a crossover that allows you to take advantage of the 8V outputs from the Clarion, that has a low noise floor, and that has full range of crossover frequencies.

http://www.sound-better.net/Support/Manuals/Autosound/2XS%20Owners%20Manual.pdf

http://www.clarion.com/us/en/MungoBlobs/594/170/DRZ9255,0.pdf

keep this in mind as you place equipment. i'd want the ability to test several configurations before having to decide on one.

 

[strkrfan13 10+ year member]

i think ill take it to a shop to have it professionally tuned when all said and done. Should i use the auto T/A that the DRZ provides?

 

[vaiboy 10+ year member]

I agree with the diagram above... depending on what you want to T/A.
whatever you combine on HU outputs, share the same T/A setting.

i may rescind my previous statement. let's think about this:

I would want to T/A the mid, woofer, and midbass uniquely. the tweeter should be above 5kHz where ITD doesn't matter and IID does. meaning you're more concerned about tweeter level (and diffraction) than arrival time (for a sound stage). T/A on the sub, that low, really won't make much of a difference.

With T/A in mind, you could also put the crossover between the tweeter and mid amps, or between the midbass and woofer amps. after further thinking, your sound stage could suffer if you combine the midrange and midbass. it all depends on location and crossover point/slope. i'd need to listen to the car to determine which was optimal.

you want a crossover that allows you to take advantage of the 8V outputs from the Clarion, that has a low noise floor, and that has full range of crossover frequencies.

http://www.sound-better.net/Support/Manuals/Autosound/2XS%20Owners%20Manual.pdf

http://www.clarion.com/us/en/MungoBlobs/594/170/DRZ9255,0.pdf

keep this in mind as you place equipment. i'd want the ability to test several configurations before having to decide on one.

Using the subwoofer output would make the most sense, but the LPF on the subwoofer output is limited to 250hz, I don't think that would be high enough for the midbass. I suppose you could use a 3-way crossover and just use the low and bandpass outputs with the subwoofer output filter set to "through". That would give you unique T/A on the tweeters, ribbons, and mids with the midbass linked to the subwoofers. I'm no acoustics engineer but it seems, from looking at his pictures, the mid and midbass are fairly close together (kick and lower door) so they might not need unique T/A. If there's going to be a problem it looks like it would be the distance between the mid and the ribbon (in the pillar). Oh well that's just my thoughts. The PPI crossover he asked about will work as either a 2 or 3-way, and has 8V outputs. If he puts it on the low and can't get it to sound good it's just a matter of swapping a couple of RCA's and adjusting the crossover frequencies to try something else, unfortunately the deck just wasn't designed for a 4-way front stage.

 

[strkrfan13 10+ year member]

ya the sub output is limited to 250hz ur correct. too low. i think im going to go with the diagram set up and try that out first. i hope there isn't too much of a sound gap between the mids and ribbons because of their locations but i will let you know how it sounds. What headunits ARE compatible with 4way setups? i dont know of too many? appreciate the feedback guys!

 

[strkrfan13 10+ year member]

oh and Vaiboy i really like your setup in ur honda! nice setup with great equipment as well job well done!