Need help troubleshooting

[Jaydenleigh knock]

I've got a bmw e46 325ci , my dad put a sound system back in 2014 . To be exact 2 12 inch subwoofer on a earthquake ph5000.1 monoblock in a good designed box for the woofers . And some other stuff but I don't want to get into to much detail. I've got a second battery hooked up to the main battery and tested both recently and I've been told both batteries are good and the alternator is still running good . My problem comes in where both woofers,my 4 channel amp and my monoblock tend to get very hot very quick . Thought it would be a electrical issue but knowing that my electrical is good I was wondering if maybe its time to redo the wiring. The car could play for hours on end and not experience this problem of heating up . I recently replaced my 12s and just finish breaking them in and they are already starting to give a smell after 2 or 3 songs and my gains are almost all the way off so I'm really lost . Could it be time for a wiring replacement for all my equipment?

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[highfigh]

I've got a bmw e46 325ci , my dad put a sound system back in 2014 . To be exact 2 12 inch subwoofer on a earthquake ph5000.1 monoblock in a good designed box for the woofers . And some other stuff but I don't want to get into to much detail. I've got a second battery hooked up to the main battery and tested both recently and I've been told both batteries are good and the alternator is still running good . My problem comes in where both woofers,my 4 channel amp and my monoblock tend to get very hot very quick . Thought it would be a electrical issue but knowing that my electrical is good I was wondering if maybe its time to redo the wiring. The car could play for hours on end and not experience this problem of heating up . I recently replaced my 12s and just finish breaking them in and they are already starting to give a smell after 2 or 3 songs and my gains are almost all the way off so I'm really lost . Could it be time for a wiring replacement for all my equipment?

How did you set the input sensitivity controls (they aren't changing the gain- that's fixed and part of the original circuit design)?

The manual shows "For best performance, set the crossover knob to 200Hz (max). Set the gain to minimum, and slowly raise the gain. In general, an ideal gain setting ranges between the 9 to 10 O' Clock position".

Measure the voltage drop at each amplifier- if it's significant, I would start by looking at the ground cable from the body to the batteries- are they separated, or both in the same area?

Add the fuses on each amp, then add the total, so you can post it- the manual for the PH-5000 shows "FUSE RATING SHOULD BE NO LESS THAN 120 AMPERES", so the power cables (Positive AND ground) need to be able to handle this. If it's too small, the voltage WILL drop and you'll never develop the rated power AND the amplifiers will run hot.

Corrosion on the ground connections will definitely cause this- clean all of them and measure the resistance/check voltage drop from each Positive power connection to the battery posts or side terminals. DO NOT use the terminals at the ends of the cables- ALL power connection measurements should be referenced to the battery terminals because it's possible to have significant resistance between the last terminal and the battery.

I have worked with car audio since 1978- I have never heard of Class J, shown in the manual for the Earthquake amp- also, read the manual and look at the real output numbers- 5000W is peak power.

Power amplifier classes - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

[Kickstand Premium Member]

I had that same amp years ago (Technically I still have it in the basement somewhere)
It used to get hot
Like crack an egg open hot
I was told it was because my car was having an issue supplying it with power
I don't know how much stock I would put in that
The whole selling point behind them is they were meant to run strapped
TBH old school amps are terribly inefficient
It defiantly did not live up to the earthquake name that at one time was a good brand
Since that amp wont actually put out 5000 watts it was more like 2000 you might want to look into getting a new one since its easy to replace
It not like it was before where 2000 watts was like $1500
CAB 22- 2200 watts $298 (Apex Audio)
Sundown SIA 2500 ,-2500 watts $369 (D4S)
DD SS2000 - 2000 watts $399 (wooferetc)

That being said BMW's have a lot of electronics in them
So your putting a strain on a 150 amp alt that's 12 years old
It may be good now but for how long?
Sometime in the near future you should look into upgrading or at least replacing it
Do it before your siting at a stop light bass pounding, cute girl in the car next to you and all of the sudden your car just dies
Trust me

 

[huberoy123 10+ year member]

How did you set the input sensitivity controls (they aren't changing the gain- that's fixed and part of the original circuit design)?

The manual shows "For best performance, set the crossover knob to 200Hz (max). Set the gain to minimum, and slowly raise the gain. In general, an ideal gain setting ranges between the 9 to 10 O' Clock position".

Measure the voltage drop at each amplifier- if it's significant, I would start by looking at the ground cable from the body to the batteries- are they separated, or both in the same area?

Add the fuses on each amp, then add the total, so you can post it- the manual for the PH-5000 shows "FUSE RATING SHOULD BE NO LESS THAN 120 AMPERES", so the power cables (Positive AND ground) need to be able to handle this. If it's too small, the voltage WILL drop and you'll never develop the rated power AND the amplifiers will run hot.

Corrosion on the ground connections will definitely cause this- clean all of them and measure the resistance/check voltage drop from each Positive power connection to the battery posts or side terminals. DO NOT use the terminals at the ends of the cables- ALL power connection measurements should be referenced to the battery terminals because it's possible to have significant resistance between the last terminal and the battery.

I have worked with car audio since 1978- I have never heard of Class J, shown in the manual for the Earthquake amp- also, read the manual and look at the real output numbers- 5000W is peak power.

Power amplifier classes - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Based on your years of audio experience, what is your opinion of the following statement? The gain should not be a guessing game. Find out the output of your head unit (check the specifications) and set the gain to that specific number. There are many methods used, but an example of the correct way is to check your head unit's pre-outs voltage. If the preout voltage is 2.5V, that is the maximum voltage (signal) that will be sent through the RCA cables to the amp. The gain control is not a volume knob.

 

[highfigh]

Based on your years of audio experience, what is your opinion of the following statement? The gain should not be a guessing game. Find out the output of your head unit (check the specifications) and set the gain to that specific number. There are many methods used, but an example of the correct way is to check your head unit's pre-outs voltage. If the preout voltage is 2.5V, that is the maximum voltage (signal) that will be sent through the RCA cables to the amp. The gain control is not a volume knob.

Amplifier gain is fixed and calling those controls 'gain control' is wrong. Input sensitivity is used to set the levels properly and for balancing the level from each channel. Also, if other equipment is between the head unit and amp(s), 2.5V may not be correct but you're correct- input level controls aren't volume controls, but they serve as that for balancing the output from the various speakers.

What would you do if the head unit is capable of 4V output? They exist and have for 30 years.

Go to the JL Audio site and read their method for setting input level controls- no meter or other instruments needed, it's easy and quick.