Need Help: Suggestions for New Setup

[djtech2k 10+ year member]

I am looking for some options/suggestions on a new setup for my son's first vehicle, a 2001 Ford F-150 standard cab. Years ago I did a lot of audio/video work, but I know a lot has changed. When I was in the business, Rockford, Alpine, and JL were some of the kings. Anyway, I am here now and I want to surprise my 16yr old son with something small to start with.

The main priorities are:

- Aux/Bluetooth input to stream music from phone (Windows Phone)

- Bluetooth for hands-free phone

- Add some bass

- Relatively Simple/Easy install (I do not have a lot of time, but will do the work.)

- Would like to improve high's but budget may limit it at first.

- Seats need to be able to move back, so the box cant be too big that it blocks the seat.

I am open to any ideas. My first thought was to update the head unit to get BT and aux input. Then I was thinking a decent powered sub for behind the seat. Some sound too good to be true and from what I hear the companies are not what they were when I worked on this stuff, in the 90's. I prefer to not have to buy/install an amp on this, but I wont rule anything out.

Any ideas on what would sound good and not cost a ton or be a tough install?

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[CSCStang]

I am looking for some options/suggestions on a new setup for my son's first vehicle, a 2001 Ford F-150 standard cab. Years ago I did a lot of audio/video work, but I know a lot has changed. When I was in the business, Rockford, Alpine, and JL were some of the kings. Anyway, I am here now and I want to surprise my 16yr old son with something small to start with.
The main priorities are:

- Aux/Bluetooth input to stream music from phone (Windows Phone)

- Bluetooth for hands-free phone

- Add some bass

- Relatively Simple/Easy install (I do not have a lot of time, but will do the work.)

- Would like to improve high's but budget may limit it at first.

- Seats need to be able to move back, so the box cant be too big that it blocks the seat.

I am open to any ideas. My first thought was to update the head unit to get BT and aux input. Then I was thinking a decent powered sub for behind the seat. Some sound too good to be true and from what I hear the companies are not what they were when I worked on this stuff, in the 90's. I prefer to not have to buy/install an amp on this, but I wont rule anything out.

Any ideas on what would sound good and not cost a ton or be a tough install?

Need a budget man.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

I prefer to not have to buy/install an amp on this, but I wont rule anything out.

You already brought that up when you said you want to add bass and an enclosure behind the seats. It's dead simple to run wires in these vehicles. A shallow subwoofer or two in a thin enclosure, 2 or 4 new coaxial speakers, a new head unit with BT, and a small 5-channel amplifier with an installation kit and an extra RCA cable could all be done for around $1,000. You could start with the head unit and come in well under $200 installed.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Yes need a budget. ,can you build the box or do you need one built ? I assume the install you can do

 

[djtech2k 10+ year member]

I could build a box, but I would really rather buy something already built. I saw some of the Kicker amplified single 10's/12's and I also saw the custom mold MTX 2x10's, but the MTX screams low quality to me for some reason. It says its like 110 watts or something. The Kicker amplified 10 was like 400 watts or something and looked better, but again I don't know and don't know if it would fit.

As for budget, well I will probably get this started for him so he can work to build his own money over time. I think the core requirement will be head unit and something for some bass. I don't want garbage, but this is not an SPL truck or anything. I know long ago the amplified boxes were garbage, but they look better now on specs at least.

For budget, I don't have a strict number, but definitely under $1000 (the lower the better of course). I think the 1st stage would be head unit, sub/amp/bass setup, and if anything were available maybe a set of front speakers. I am not sure if head unit power is any better than it used to be, but I am hoping a decent head unit will power the fronts a lot better than an older radio. For the sub, I am only thinking a single or 2 small subs will be fine. I see them ranging from 8" - 12". 2 x 10's is max, and maybe even too much. A single 10 or something decent will be fine I think. Whatever we don't get in the 1st stage he can work towards.

 

[djtech2k 10+ year member]

Any ideas?

A pre built sub system would be convenient if its good and it fits, but I could buy or build a box to fit also.

 

[NinjaBass]

I think if you were to build the box to the specs of whatever sub you get it would be a lot better overall

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Any ideas?
A pre built sub system would be convenient if its good and it fits, but I could buy or build a box to fit also.

Pre-build sub systems are a lot worse today then back then, dont even bother with em.

I'd recommend building a box if you want to keep it cheap and snug fitting.

The new kings on the block nowadays is sundown and digital designs. Kicker subs went down hill, JL's prices skyrocketed but technology has not improved much. Alpine is okay still.

head unit either alpine 147 bt, clarion cz702(if you want active capabilities), both have modern day features any teen would love with the sound quality to boot(strong DACs, with DTA, EQs, crossovers etc.)

Subwoofer, sundown SD series they are shallow mounts that can work fine in ported or sealed boxes. Measure up how much space you have and get a 10 or 12 depending on how much cubic feet you have to work with. The position the sub faces makes a big difference in output and sound quality too. Make sure it has something to load(reflect sound waves) off of.

subwoofer amp, alpine mrp 500 if you only want 1 sub. Will give you more recommendations if you plan on running more then one sub.

 

[Louisiana_CRX 5,000+ posts]

There are some nice systems available...

 

[djtech2k 10+ year member]

Thanks for the info so far.

Wow, its surprising to me that all the old kings of audio are no good and these new companies are the new kings.

For the head unit I just want something with a decent, clean power for fronts since I do not know that I will buy an amp for fronts to start. Yes, I know its amateur, but I just want to get my son started. So I will need it to power the fronts, have decent decent signal voltage (RCA), and do bluetooth. I want him to be able to do hands-free calling and playing music, so he doesnt have to fiddle with the phone. An input jack on the front is also needed.

Box/Sub:

I saw a box design/measurement on these forums that someone wrote about for a 2001 F150 std cab. I will measure myself, but I assume that I will have to use subs that will operate well in a small sealed enclosure. I would like to have the resonate frequency around 80-10 range. I don't want to throw a sub into a box and be tuned/resonate at 200 or something. 1 sub or 2 subs will work. I am open....when we were building systems years ago, we built a competition car with (4) 6" Rockford Audiophile's in a custom molded bandpass that was very musical but could hit near 140db. So I know if its done right, even small woofers can sound great. So I am open to anything, 8's, 10's, 12's, single/double, etc. As for the firing direction, well I am a little limited. In a std cab truck, I almost have to have it facing forward, towards the seat. If I fired it backwards into the truck cab, I would have less room because I would have to give the woofer room to move and not hit the back of the cab. I am going to look at that sundown brand you mentioned. The more sub/box suggestions, the better. I am showing my age on this I know //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Amp:

I know the impedance of the sub(s), the type of amp, and the number of amp channels will make all the difference. Based on what I remember from before, high-power amps would be able to handle 2ohm stable and not too hot. High-Current amps would go down to about .5ohm stable. I am open, but since I don't care about watt class, I am guessing it will be a high-power amp. Does this still hold true with the newer equipment? For example, If I were going to use 2 subs and a 2-channel amp, I would get 8ohm subs. That would make the inside of the amp see 2ohm.

So based on what you guys have said, I guess I am going to build an enclosure for this. Just a little more time I guess //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Thanks again.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Measure how much depth you can work with that will give a better idea of what subs you can use I did a custom box last year in a dodge ram single cab with a single 15 sounded gear and loud . Just saying that you may not be limited to slimmer or flat subs

 

[djtech2k 10+ year member]

I am going to as soon as I get access to the truck again. I found this thread which shows someone else's measurements:

F150 Speakers - F150online Forums

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for the info so far.
Wow, its surprising to me that all the old kings of audio are no good and these new companies are the new kings.

For the head unit I just want something with a decent, clean power for fronts since I do not know that I will buy an amp for fronts to start. Yes, I know its amateur, but I just want to get my son started. So I will need it to power the fronts, have decent decent signal voltage (RCA), and do bluetooth. I want him to be able to do hands-free calling and playing music, so he doesnt have to fiddle with the phone. An input jack on the front is also needed.

Box/Sub:

I saw a box design/measurement on these forums that someone wrote about for a 2001 F150 std cab. I will measure myself, but I assume that I will have to use subs that will operate well in a small sealed enclosure. I would like to have the resonate frequency around 80-10 range. I don't want to throw a sub into a box and be tuned/resonate at 200 or something. 1 sub or 2 subs will work. I am open....when we were building systems years ago, we built a competition car with (4) 6" Rockford Audiophile's in a custom molded bandpass that was very musical but could hit near 140db. So I know if its done right, even small woofers can sound great. So I am open to anything, 8's, 10's, 12's, single/double, etc. As for the firing direction, well I am a little limited. In a std cab truck, I almost have to have it facing forward, towards the seat. If I fired it backwards into the truck cab, I would have less room because I would have to give the woofer room to move and not hit the back of the cab. I am going to look at that sundown brand you mentioned. The more sub/box suggestions, the better. I am showing my age on this I know //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Amp:

I know the impedance of the sub(s), the type of amp, and the number of amp channels will make all the difference. Based on what I remember from before, high-power amps would be able to handle 2ohm stable and not too hot. High-Current amps would go down to about .5ohm stable. I am open, but since I don't care about watt class, I am guessing it will be a high-power amp. Does this still hold true with the newer equipment? For example, If I were going to use 2 subs and a 2-channel amp, I would get 8ohm subs. That would make the inside of the amp see 2ohm.

So based on what you guys have said, I guess I am going to build an enclosure for this. Just a little more time I guess //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Thanks again.

Most subs play from 20-100hz range and resonate at 40-50hz not 80-100 that is midbass speakers category, subs sound like poop in that frequency range.

Same head units i suggested It has everything you need along with sound quality. All head units are tested to only produce around 12 real watts per speaker channel so power rating does not matter at all. With the sub stage set up recommended, sooner or later he's going to have to upgrade the mids and highs and amp them too but no need yet since you can always turn the subwoofer level down on the head unit and have a nice blend for daily listening.

2 sundown SA 8s or SA 10s dual 4 ohms (wire to 1 ohm nominal) under the seat, facing forward with the port firing into the side(ported is a must). If you want a cheaper 8" then look at soundqubed hds208s.

a video of what a single SA 8 can do in a proper box.



Power should be a monoblock amp, a soundqubed 1200.1D would be the lowest priced quality amp that puts out more then rated power. dont even think about using two channel amps, they are meant for speakers, monoblocks are for subwoofers.

 

[djtech2k 10+ year member]

Ok, so it sounds like frequency responses have definitely changed. I am perfectly fine with anything tuned to the 50-80hz.

I agree that the fronts will need upgraded as well. I may be able to squeeze a speaker upgrade into the doors, but components and amp will definitely have to come as phase 2.

So the sundown woofers need to be ported? With such small space, I assumed I would need to use a small sealed enclosure.

Is the sundown woofer series SA or SD? The SA look very deep, but I am looking for measurements.

 

[What was that? 10+ year member]

I can tell you, as I build boxes for a lot of teenagers, he will not like a box tuned above 38. My go to frequency is 30. Most everyone that does not build boxes themselves are satisfied with that. The Alpine 147 that was suggested is a nice unit. You can also just use a Bluetooth adapter with standard rca inputs on most any head unit to steam music and have phone audio come through car speakers.