Need help powering this madness!

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Two ppi 900.4s and a mono for the subwoofer.

he'd have to get old ones wouldn't he? pretty sure new ones changed cheaper..

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Good point actually. I still wanna replace the garbage stock ones though. They are absolutely horrible. The only reason I chose those is because everyone praises their "midrange capabilities". Do you know of any other 6x9s that have atleast decent midrange capabilities and don't cost like $300? Lol

man i used super cheap dual cones in rear so basically it's just a mid i put them in foam baffle just to protect them from subwoofer vibrations.. hu faded 70% front barely hear rears anyway., just a little and i'm just running them on hu.. i was gonna get some polks and swap my sq doors too but to me rears aren't even worth $50 diff not $300 lol..

 

[Popwarhomie 5,000+ posts]

he'd have to get old ones wouldn't he? pretty sure new ones changed cheaper..

They were discontinued but can still be found for sale new.

 

[BroncosNeverDie]

man i used super cheap dual cones in rear so basically it's just a mid i put them in foam baffle just to protect them from subwoofer vibrations.. hu faded 70% front barely hear rears anyway., just a little and i'm just running them on hu.. i was gonna get some polks and swap my sq doors too but to me rears aren't even worth $50 diff not $300 lol..

Well, the current ones I have keep clipping at like half volume and they're 5x7. So definitely replacing them LOL. I just wanted to know; do you recommend component or coaxials in the back? I'll only have dedicated tweeters on the dashboard, not in the back, so coaxials seem to make more sense. But I'm new to this so...

 

[pw91686 10+ year member]

Well, the current ones I have keep clipping at like half volume and they're 5x7. So definitely replacing them LOL. I just wanted to know; do you recommend component or coaxials in the back? I'll only have dedicated tweeters on the dashboard, not in the back, so coaxials seem to make more sense. But I'm new to this so...

personally, i would not run rear speakers, i would just take them out. but if you have made up your mind, just go with a coaxial, no reason to spend money on components for the rear.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Very detailed response, thanks, I appreciate it.
I actually own nothing as of now. I want to make a list of all the things that I,'m 100% sure I want to buy and then order. Although I'd rather not run anything off the head unit power. Realistically, if I'm spending $300 on a pair of 6x9 midrange speakers, I feel as if it's audio crime to not run them on a decent amp haha! I wouldn't mind having 3 amps in the vehicle. It's more of a space issue than money or power.

I would scrap the rears altogether. Focus your effort on the front. How many concerts have you been to where the band is playing behind you or behind and in front of you at the same time?

Get yourself a good large format tweeter that is comfortable playing down to 2KHz (if you can make room for it) or even a planar (again, if you have a good spot to mount them) to pair with the Anarchy mids (you do have the depth to mount the mids, right?) then you can greatly simplify your install by shopping for a 5 channel or 6 channel amp that'll do the whole thing for you. Head unit with good built in crossover options would be a nice plus or you could chose an amp that can do the job.

 

[BroncosNeverDie]

OK Everyone,

Here's my current plan. I went through all your input and researched a bit and have found that this is a viable solution. It may not be idea, but oh well.

Anarachy 7's and Tweeters: 4 Channel Pioneer amp that does 125W @ 4Ohm under dyno tests: https://goo.gl/v5Sb1q

6X9 Rear Coaxials (Probably Alpine SPS-619 6x9"): https://goo.gl/uGMv6u

Bridged to 2Ohms with the 6x9s in parallel to bring the impedance down to 2Ohms

IDQ12 V.4 D2 750W Subwoofer with the Rockford Fosgate Prime 1200W amp: https://goo.gl/nQjUeF

What worries me about this is that it only does 800W @ 2 Ohms. Is that enough for a subwoofer rated for 750W RMS? Please let me know if there is a better amp for that, even if it costs a bit more. Thanks!

Thanks everyone! Please let me know what you think!

BND

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

alpines are probably good speakers u just really don't need rears if u have power up front u can barely hear rears if at all.. and u don't want to hear tweets behind u anyway., just fade hu to front 70%..

 

[BroncosNeverDie]

alpines are probably good speakers u just really don't need rears if u have power up front u can barely hear rears if at all.. and u don't want to hear tweets behind u anyway., just fade hu to front 70%..

Right, but I will be driving across the country soon with other people who will be sitting in the back so atleast for now I'd like to add 6x9s in the back. The tweeters will be infront of me, though. On the dash. Based on this config, would my amp choice work?

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Right, but I will be driving across the country soon with other people who will be sitting in the back so atleast for now I'd like to add 6x9s in the back. The tweeters will be infront of me, though. On the dash. Based on this config, would my amp choice work?

oh u gonna amp the rears? i wouldn't just run on hu with xover.. the 8604 is good idk about the other one..

 

[BroncosNeverDie]

oh u gonna amp the rears? i wouldn't just run on hu with xover.. the 8604 is good idk about the other one..

Kind of want to at this point. I don't want any speakers running unamped. Especially because I want to look at aftermarket head units based on quality and options, not ppwer delivery that can ppwer those speakers. Plus they're 85W RMS each.

 

[2RZ-FE 10+ year member]

That D2 IDQ would be wired @ 1ohm, not 2ohm. That RF does 1200 watts @ 1ohm. The Pioneer GM-D9601 is rated the same.

 

[BroncosNeverDie]

That D2 IDQ would be wired @ 1ohm, not 2ohm. That RF does 1200 watts @ 1ohm. The Pioneer GM-D9601 is rated the same.

Oh boy I don't think i wanna do 1ohm in a car. That'll get toasty... i'll get the IDK V.2 D4 then and wire it down to 2Ohm. Unless there's a good reason to do 1Ohm. Would that amp work on the 4 ohm version sub (wired to 2Ohm)?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

OK Everyone,
Here's my current plan. I went through all your input and researched a bit and have found that this is a viable solution. It may not be idea, but oh well.

Anarachy 7's and Tweeters: 4 Channel Pioneer amp that does 125W @ 4Ohm under dyno tests: https://goo.gl/v5Sb1q

6X9 Rear Coaxials (Probably Alpine SPS-619 6x9"): https://goo.gl/uGMv6u

Bridged to 2Ohms with the 6x9s in parallel to bring the impedance down to 2Ohms

IDQ12 V.4 D2 750W Subwoofer with the Rockford Fosgate Prime 1200W amp: https://goo.gl/nQjUeF

What worries me about this is that it only does 800W @ 2 Ohms. Is that enough for a subwoofer rated for 750W RMS? Please let me know if there is a better amp for that, even if it costs a bit more. Thanks!

Thanks everyone! Please let me know what you think!

BND

horrible idea, that will turn it into a mono signal and it'll sound like an absolute mess. I'd get another pioneer gm 8604, bridge one to the midbass, have the other one run the tweeter and 6x9 if you want more power. The anarchy 7s will sound 1000x better with alot of power on it. Dont even pay attention to the RMS rating, those things can handle 350 watts + per speaker easy and sound a lot cleaner with more power.

You'll want to do the big 3 upgrade and maybe an extra battery in the back or and upgraded under the hood battery. Definitely run 1 ohm because you are never getting the power you see at 1 ohm, you are actually in the 2-4 ohm ranges due to impedance rise aka how the sub acts in an enclosure. You'll at best see 2 ohm power its the same with every amp. This is why you have a lot of people running at half or even 0.33 ohms to get good power out of certain amps. Its just physics, I'd always have more power on tap then lower the gain, just because you have all that power doesnt mean you need it all. Doing so will keep the amp a lot cooler than an amp forced to go 120% all the times even at a higher ohm load to do the job its supposed to do. Overhead is needed to keep the sound clean, distortion free and keep the amps safe cool and reliable.

 

[BOOMINGRANDPA 5,000+ posts]

Oh boy I don't think i wanna do 1ohm in a car. That'll get toasty... i'll get the IDK V.2 D4 then and wire it down to 2Ohm. Unless there's a good reason to do 1Ohm. Would that amp work on the 4 ohm version sub (wired to 2Ohm)?

it's fine man i'm at 1 ohm., they'll tell u they used to call 2 ohm "gramp ohm" because of me.. i can tell u how to set gain and on the rf it should be easier than most because controls on top of amp.. also after box rise sub will get closer to 2 ohm power and u were worried about no having enough now u fine., u can set gain at like 1100rms and after rise sub will get about the power it's rated at and amp won't be ran hard.. watch this use volt meter and 50hz tone for 1100rms u will set it at 33.1volts