need help just sent 1000 dollars on install and its sounds worse then stock

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

You should still sell that amp man. Those speakers need more power. You are seriously lacking the power needed for a dynamic response. The 900.4 is a beast of an amp and sounds great.

I would go with something that has no less than 125w a channel.

Have your doors been treated at all? That should be your next step after switching amps.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

ok so it was the tunning that made the speakers sound so punny they still arent sounding the greatest but now they sound 10 times better then before . he had the mids crossed at 80 on -18 slope with the gain turned down on the bit 10 . He crossed it down to 60 with a -12 slope. now I have my mid bass . Its still not what I have heard before but it sounds better . Also he said he added the front and rear to the bit ten instead of just the front speakers and he said it made them sound alot better .

You need a SUBWOOFER!

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

You should still sell that amp man. Those speakers need more power. You are seriously lacking the power needed for a dynamic response. The 900.4 is a beast of an amp and sounds great.
I would go with something that has no less than 125w a channel.

Have your doors been treated at all? That should be your next step after switching amps.

Implying that possible 3dB gain by doubling power to his mids is going to be a dramatic differnce? Do you own a meter? Ever actually tested what 3dB sounds like?

IMO throwing more power at things is about the last thing that should be considered in this situation.

OP, if you want the equivalent of 2 more clicks on your volume dial go ahead and double the size of your amp because that's about all the difference it will make.

 

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

Implying that possible 3dB gain by doubling power to his mids is going to be a dramatic differnce? Do you own a meter? Ever actually tested what 3dB sounds like?
IMO throwing more power at things is about the last thing that should be considered in this situation.

OP, if you want the equivalent of 2 more clicks on your volume dial go ahead and double the size of your amp because that's about all the difference it will make.

Not everything is about the meter. But I know for a fact, that doubling power will make a huge difference. That is from experience. I was running a set of Rockford mids and was running an amp that did 80w per channel. Wasn't too impressed with them. Switched the amp for a 900.4 and doubled power without switching anything else in my system and the difference was remarkable. They came alive and had the range and impact I felt they were missing before that.

I'm not saying that switching amps and doubling the power will solve everything. I'm saying that he won't ever get the best performance out of that component set if he doesn't give them the power they need.

Again, its not all about the meter.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Not everything is about the meter. But I know for a fact, that doubling power will make a huge difference. That is from experience. I was running a set of Rockford mids and was running an amp that did 80w per channel. Wasn't too impressed with them. Switched the amp for a 900.4 and doubled power without switching anything else in my system and the difference was remarkable. They came alive and had the range and impact I felt they were missing before that.
I'm not saying that switching amps and doubling the power will solve everything. I'm saying that he won't ever get the best performance out of that component set if he doesn't give them the power they need.

Again, its not all about the meter.

There's more to that story than the difference between 80W and 150W, because it's not just the meter, it's the actual perceived difference in loudness of 3dB which isn't much. If you have a 0-35 head unit it's about 2 clicks of the volume knob. I asked about a meter because if you ever looked at a meter while listening and actually turn things up or down 3dB you would realize it's not very dramatic. Noticeable, but not dramatic.

Furthermore when you're pushing the drivers to their upmost limit you're getting into distortion and compression from the speakers so it's likely you'd have actually less difference real world.

With just a DMM you can try it for yourself with your amp. Put it up to a high listening volume, test voltage on a test tone and back down your volume until you're at HALF POWER. Now you know how many clicks of your volume knob 3dB is (or halving the power). Now put in a music track and compare playing music at one level on the dial vs. the other. It won't be very much on your volume dial and you'll see what I mean.

Now assuming you told OP to get into a 125 per channel Zapco, Zed, Audison, or other high quality, regulated power supply amp, I'd think the difference would be more noticeable, but not so much just jumping up a size of the same Chinese mid-fi brand..... and likely still won't be the silver bullet to fix what his problem is (which is lack of a subwoofer, lack of proper set up of his processor, possible poor locations of the components, and even some other random install error).

In short, after a point, throwing more power at things becomes very low return on investment.

 

[gstokes]

Using the Bit 10 to clean the dirty signal from a cheap H/U was poor idea, replace H/U with something like the Kenwood KDC-597X and put the bit 10 back in the box then pump more wattage to those power hungry speakers, you're barely waking em up..

 

[dubuang]

I am running my setup on a stock HU on a lexus IS350 and mine sounds great... I only have my amp and sub hooked to an LC6i, no distortion, and everything kicks. The components are just stock pioneers, so yours should be 10X better than mines. Either shop did a poor job, or you really need a new HU to get everything tuned correctly. But as I stated before on my stock HU my setup is far from mediocre.

 

[dspencer24 10+ year member]

Well i downloaded the bit ten program and played with tuning i flattened the curve to 0db changed crossover setting and it sounds like i have lil subs in the door i do need a deck tho for sure . But for now its getting better mazda doors can hold some bass for sure

 

[d77543020 10+ year member]

Well i downloaded the bit ten program and played with tuning i flattened the curve to 0db changed crossover setting and it sounds like i have lil subs in the door i do need a deck tho for sure . But for now its getting better mazda doors can hold some bass for sure

you shouldent need a deck if you bought a bit ten thats the whole purpose of having it,i would take it to a Audison dealer or to someone who knows how to use it and let them set your eq up,the bit ten the ms8 the 3sixty3 were all designed to work with stock systems

 

[tat2bass 10+ year member]

There's more to that story than the difference between 80W and 150W, because it's not just the meter, it's the actual perceived difference in loudness of 3dB which isn't much. If you have a 0-35 head unit it's about 2 clicks of the volume knob. I asked about a meter because if you ever looked at a meter while listening and actually turn things up or down 3dB you would realize it's not very dramatic. Noticeable, but not dramatic.
Furthermore when you're pushing the drivers to their upmost limit you're getting into distortion and compression from the speakers so it's likely you'd have actually less difference real world.

With just a DMM you can try it for yourself with your amp. Put it up to a high listening volume, test voltage on a test tone and back down your volume until you're at HALF POWER. Now you know how many clicks of your volume knob 3dB is (or halving the power). Now put in a music track and compare playing music at one level on the dial vs. the other. It won't be very much on your volume dial and you'll see what I mean.

Now assuming you told OP to get into a 125 per channel Zapco, Zed, Audison, or other high quality, regulated power supply amp, I'd think the difference would be more noticeable, but not so much just jumping up a size of the same Chinese mid-fi brand..... and likely still won't be the silver bullet to fix what his problem is (which is lack of a subwoofer, lack of proper set up of his processor, possible poor locations of the components, and even some other random install error).

In short, after a point, throwing more power at things becomes very low return on investment.

I'm not saying that switching from 80 to 150 will make it twice as loud and all that. I'm saying that doing that will provide the power necessary to give a full dynamic range. Playing on 80w you'll still hear everything and it will be loud, but with all the same settings and a proper tune that eliminates distortion, playing on 150 will give you more depth. A snare drum will sound more snappy, a kick drum will having a deeper thump, a guitar solo will sound more defined and better replicate the individual notes. You'll be able to hear the fingers slide down the frets, its all little things that those speakers are capable of but won't do to the best of their ability on that power.

There is a reason why if you go to an SQ comp they will run a few hundred watts to each speaker. Its not about being loud. Its about having the power available to play with the dynamics that music entails.

Again, I'm saying this from my personal experience; that when I've run nice speakers I have always ran more.power than necessary and it's a night and day difference to me. It may be only two clicks louder on the volume knob, but the way the music comes alive is what I care about. Not whether it'll hurt my ears and keep up with a 5k sub system like a lot of guys on here run

 

[Roland 10+ year member]

I'd double check that all the drivers are in phase.