Need help. Incriminator Audio 20.1 went in to protect Pics

riddla
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Oh man, have had this amp for 3mnths with no problems runnig 2 12in subs @ 1ohm and went to go out today and turned key and the amp went BOOM straight away. I think one of my subs coils have been playing up but I dont know if that caused it. The other 2 amps were fine.

Opened it up and saw what I think are transistors blown, 3 on one side and 1 on the other. I took it to the repair shop and they said they would have to replace all 16 transistors and it might be an expensive job

Why would the amp blow like that ? All my wiring is fine and the inline 300a fuse never blew which is close to the 2nd battery. Again its been good for the last few months and I brought it 2nd hand but was hardly used by the previous owner. I cant believe this. Any input as to why please.

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low battery volage or a bad sub and the impedance dropped to low...mounting location...caused too much internal vibration...one bad connection in the chain...that causes arching of connection...a bad internal part...or a very weak ground ...especially if you drive a unibody and only tried to ground in the trunk

Those are a few

 
My main battery has been weak as I checked that the other day and was planning on buying a new one this wkend. One sub definately has not been playing right and I was waiting to change both to dual 2 ohm subs to runn .5ohm. All connections are good but I will dbl check. All grounds appear to be good. Im using the same ground that the main battery feeds of which is the stock one to the chassis and both main and 2nd batterys are in the trunk. Big 3 done and 0awg cabling throughout

 
Also when I checked voltages, Both batterys were floating at 12.32V but I know this is because my main battery needs replacing which ima do this wkend and give the p2150 a good charge. on idle both sat at 14.2V without reving

 
contact IA and see how much it will be to repair it, and definitely get a new battery, those amps are to precious to be ran under 12v
Yes I will do, is it worth reparing ? or should I get another amp, wouldn't mind some more power but not before I sort out the important bits 1st.

 
ima see how much its going to cost 1st to repair //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
you had to go below 12 volts........y
they will always replace all of them. if they dont then they dont care
yes, they said they cant do 4 but must do all so thats good. If for example I or they cant get the exact parts, could I use equivalent components or similar out of interest

 
Tell me about it. I was looking forward to waking it up at .5ohm. I think its got something to do with my main battery voltage or the sub mainly

 
Just took my subs out and checked all the coils using my multimeter and I can now say that all my coils are reading the same and they are all spot on 4ohms / 0.39. this now rules out that my subwoofers are working fine Now I have an issue somewhere else. Any suggestions on what else I can check in the car ? All my connections appear to be spot on. There is one issue I have which is that as soon as I start the car up, there is hissing and interference (engine whine) coming through my mids and tweeters and then this dissappears after 5seconds. When the bass amp was taken out today, the hissing goes away after 5 seconds but when I had the bass amp connected, the hissing and interferance (engine whine) was constant. (I am running a 3 way active system) ?

The last thing I want to do is connect the amp back when its been repaired and it blows again

 
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riddla

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