I am a fan of building one yourself. Easy to do' date=' cheap, and best results.
Just get Home Depot to make the cuts for you, and all that is left is gluing the MDF together, securing with a few screws, and possibly painting or carpeting it.[/quote']
often times costs more than the $40-50 prefab...assuming he has all the tools, a garage..etc.
I have gone both ways, i spent a fortune in tools. MDF can be pricey assuming you find it. plus costs of everything else. Mistakes happen often if your new to it or don't use proper tools.
Prefabs often use Miter joints and Dado grooves with strong adhesives and staples, their not gonna blow apart easily with todays adhesives....If you need more quality, all you do is add some braceing and L brackets, maybe some sound deadner to reduce external vibes, add some polyfill, rubber gasket for sub to air tighten and presto...its as strong and sound deadened as any home built box.
matching size and tuning is really the only important thing and its easy enough to modify the ports for tuneing on most prefabs. or add your own to a large sealed box.
Im a retard? No, I am a noob.
And @dcyphure, so the minimum should be 1.25 ft3 and the max should be 1.75 ft3 per sub?
And it would be best to get the 1.75 ft3?
I found an Atrend box but its 1.3 ft3 per sub. I'll start looking at probox's now
1.75 ft3 would be best according to kicker.....now that doesnt mean going 2.0 ft3 or larger wouldnt go even deeper, its just the size that kicker deemed as optimal for whatever reason. when most makers say max size, their typically saying that going larger doesnt make a large enough difference to justify the larger box due to how their sub is designed. but ya never know.
Check out WINISD, its a free program and type in the sub specs and different box sizes so you can get a better visual of how loud it might be at what frequency.