Need help adjusting amp

[CamaroMan79]

First off I would like to introduce myself as I am New here. My name is Bill and I have a 78 Z28 pro-touring Camaro thatI just recently updated the stereo system in, and am not sure what my amp needs to be adjusted at, along with my deck. I am pretty new to stereo's.

My system consists of the following:

Panasonic's CQ-C7105U deck

Kenwood Excelon hi performance 6.5" components

Kenwood 3-way 6x9's

and a Kenwood X600F Excelon Gouriki 4 channel amp:

I have had the deck and the 6x9's for awhile but just recently got the amp and component set.

Im needing to know how to properly set this amp up, as it has many adjustments.

My cd player also has different settings for hrtz in LP and HP. im not sure what those should be at either. Like I said I really dont know much about stereo's.

My amp has the following adjustment knobs: A CH- input sensitivity, hpf/lpf frequency

B CH- input sensitivity, bass boost frequency, bass boost level, hpf/lpf frequency.

Then there are sliders that say: input selector (a or AB)(I have it set to AB)), operation (either mono or stereo), A Ch filter (HPF, off or LPF), B Ch (HPF off or LPF)

I know that this system is not made to bump, but I would like a lil bass if possible. I dont want it to be just all treble.

Click to read more...

 

[grokman]

Let me help you out with this

LP means low pass and hp means high pass....LP means to allow all sound frequencies below a certain range and HP is vice versa.

You should choose HP and if there is a slider choose HP=30hz

Set the amp to AB and stereo.

Generally the LP out from your amp should go to your sub and HP out to your rear speakers.

You would have to adjust other setting like bass boost, bass boost frequency with your ear.

Always remember that you need you correctly pair the speakers with the audio outs. High frequency signal can kill your sub and low freq sound can rupture your tweeters. So you have to be very careful.

While calibrating this make sure that the windows are rolled up and the engine is off. This will give you a better listening environment.

Cheers

Joe

Nissan of St Charles IL

 

[mast240 10+ year member]

Let me help you out with this
LP means low pass and hp means high pass....LP means to allow all sound frequencies below a certain range and HP is vice versa.

You should choose HP and if there is a slider choose HP=30hz

Set the amp to AB and stereo.

Generally the LP out from your amp should go to your sub and HP out to your rear speakers.

You would have to adjust other setting like bass boost, bass boost frequency with your ear.

Always remember that you need you correctly pair the speakers with the audio outs. High frequency signal can kill your sub and low freq sound can rupture your tweeters. So you have to be very careful.

While calibrating this make sure that the windows are rolled up and the engine is off. This will give you a better listening environment.

Cheers

Joe

Nissan of St Charles IL

so many thing wrong with this post.

OP... your settings on your amp will be pretty simple.

if your running just the coaxials and components, with no sup, set your crossover to "full". LP and HP are only used when staging your sound... I.E. running a sub in the rear, and 2 seperate amps, one for bass, and one for highs. your components and coax's will have built in crossovers, to filter out the unwanted highs for the woofers, and lows for the tweets.

to properly tune your amp, you'll want to set all the settings on your HU to 0, turn you bass boost to 0 (always have this set to zero, as it can cause clipping issues).

you're going to want to find the clipping point of your amp, and this is accomplished with setiing your gain ("input sensitivity").

to do this, you'll need a DMM (Digital multimeter), and a little bit of time. (an o-scope is the "proper way" to set them, but you can get by with just a DMM)

your going to test your output terminals (speaker out) for AC voltage, while adjusting your gain (input sensitivity)... here are the following steps of how to do so...

1. find a 1khz test tone (if you have an android or Iphone, you can download a tone creator... or you can just find the tone online, and burn it to a cd)

2. set your HU to 3/4 volume level (if it goes up to 40, set it to 30, etc..)

3. find the AC voltage you'll be shooting for, i will give you an example how to:

take the "rated rms" wattage of each channel of you amp, lets say i have a 50x4 watt rms amp

figure out the impendance of your speaker (ohm load) ... most components are 4 ohm.

do this math : sqaure root of (wattage x impendance)

sqrt(50x4) = 14.142

14.142 is the AC voltage you will be looking for.

4. now, once you figured out your AC voltage, take your DMM, hook it up to one channel of your amp, play your 1khz test tone at 3/4 volume, and starting with the gain (input sensitivity) all the way down, start turning it, until you reach the AC voltage you got from previous math eqution

this is what is called your "clipping" point... it is the point where your amp basiclly begins sending a "distorted" signal to your speakers. (theres more to it then that, but that is the simplest explination of it)

5. once you find this "clipping point, turn your gain setting back a little bit... and your amp will be set... since you have a 4ch with 2 seperate gains, you'll repeat this step for both settings.

remember, the numbers i used in this example, are just that... an example. your will be different, depending on your amps rated wattage, and the impendance load of your speakers. for a "properly" tuned amp, everything on your HU should stay flat, though you can probably get away with minor adjustments to your liking... just dont turn the bass all the way up, bass boost to full, loud to full... any of that, because it will cause your signal to distort... and your amp to clip.