need frontstage badly...

i do not like the idea of 4 tweeters. totally unecessary. all you need is two. and why are you asking for coaxials and components when you got 4 tweeters //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif ? what kind of processing do you have to have 4 tweeters and then a set of coaxials? how do plan on crossing your tweeters?

also as far as price, what reasonable? thats very vague. reasonable to a millionaire can be $5000 components or reasonable can mean a POS $50 components. be more specific.

 
if i would've saw that before i posted, i wouldn't have.
wasn't directed to everyone...just the people who always feel the need to flame anyone and everyone regardlessly. i came into this thread STATING i was running 4 tweeters and ASKING for advice on comps. not vice versa.

 
i do not like the idea of 4 tweeters. totally unecessary. all you need is two. and why are you asking for coaxials and components when you got 4 tweeters //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/uhoh.gif.c07307dd22ee7e63e22fc8e9c614d1fd.gif ? what kind of processing do you have to have 4 tweeters and then a set of coaxials? how do plan on crossing your tweeters?
also as far as price, what reasonable? thats very vague. reasonable to a millionaire can be $5000 components or reasonable can mean a POS $50 components. be more specific.

reasonable = less than $300 for 6.5s and amp.

ok. let me clarify.

my buddy has some old 4x6 pioneer comps. not sure of model or anything, but theyll be fine straight off the h/u just for rear fill. he lost the tweeters, so ill just put the new tweeters on the stock crossover.

6.5" components/coaxials are gonna be run off a seperate amp. if I get components, then i'll decide whether to run the stock tweeters or the new tweeters on the stock crossovers, whichever sound better. if i get coaxials and i'm still not pleased with the highs, i'll run 2 more tweeters direct off the h/u and see how it sounds. but i'll probably get comps to avoid running them directly.

i think i was a little misunderstood earlier in the post.

 
just buy a set of components. buy an amp with some good power and you're good to go. all that is very unecessary such as adding another set of tweeters because to be honest, that'll sound like crap. but whatever makes you happy.

 
ya im starting to change my mind but i have heard 4 tweeters ghetto rigged (each tweeter was spliced directly into the door speaker wires into the headunit) and to my surprise it sounded pretty good.

but anyways. lets start this whole thing off on a new note.

I want a set of 6.5" comps that will get loud and be clear. I want to keep the 6.5"s and amp under $350 total. any advice/recommendations?

 
Well, not to offend, but don't be surprised if that sounds terrible. I mean, it will sound terrible. No doubt. And if you run a full signal at those tweeters from the headunit, they aren't going to last long. And why on earth would you want 4 tweeters AND coaxials? Do you have any idea how much signal cancellation there is going to be in that cabin?

I don't care how you install it, that's a recipe for disaster.

The best advice I can give you is to ditch the 4 tweeter idea and just invest in some proper comps worthy of the substage. You can go active if that's what you want, but buy the proper gear, i.e. a crossover or amp/head unit with crossover capability (if you don't already have one). There is absolutly NO reason to have more than two tweeters in a car (barring rearfill use, which many will recommend against). Even two, with relatively low wattage, can be ear-piercing. Adding more tweeters is not going to make up for poor planning or poor tweeters.

As for midbass, it's going to be difficult to find anything that can run with those subs that'll fit in a door. That's just reality when you have that much power on such a brutal sub, you can pretty much forget about any illusion of "up-front bass," unless you're willing to do a hell of a lot of work up front, like putting 8s in the doors hiding a sub in the center console or something to that effect.

Really, what you need are some decent components. Perhaps Crystal SSCS 6.5s would do the job well enough. They won't break the bank and they're good. The metal dome tweets will cut through the bass and at that price, those mids are the closest thing out there that have a chance at running with those subs.

Save yourself the money of having to upgrade down the road and save yourself the aggravation of ending up with something that sounds awful.

Hope that helps.

Edit: I was typing this long-winded post while the thread carried on, I'll leave this stuff as food for thought, and my recommendation still stands. So, there it is.

 
I've heard using lots of tweeters is popular down south. Frankly, most peoples substages on this forum are totally overkill too when your dealing with reproducing music, in a vehicle no less,but few rag on that. So really, it's not much different, just another way to reproduce sound loudly with no concern for tonal accuracy.

edit: not condoning the use of 4 tweets, just putting things into perspective.

 
I agree with you. Never understood the monstrous substages used in some cars. I thought the point was to listen to YOUR music, not inflict it on everyone around you. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eyebrow.gif.fe2c18d8720fe8c7eaed347b21ea05a5.gif

 
i'm thinking of getting 2 sets of fosgate power T1 coaxials on a nice 4 channel if i get the deal im looking at.

1 set in the doors and possibly 1 set in some custom fiberglass pods right above the dash kinda like steve meade has.

 
what about those poly mids by ascendant audio? ive heard nothing but good things from them, and the mids are only $35 each //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wow.gif.23d729408e9177caa2a0ed6a2ba6588e.gif. i was going to pick up a pair here in a couple months. http://www.ascendantaudio.com/Arbiter_TM.html

p.s. if you go active, you wont even need the crossovers, so you're looking at $160 for some good comps.

 
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