Need alil help with my Amp.

[steven408ca]

Hey guys I'm kinda new here and i thought i would post a problem here and see if i can get some feedback. Well... I've had my amp and my 2 12" subwoofers for about 2 years now. Out of those 2 years at least a year and a half they have stopped working. I get no power to my amp. I've tested out my subwoofers and seeing if they were blown, i tried getting a AA battery and placing the positive on the positive and negative on the negative and i get this screeching sound so i know it's not my subs being blown. I have talked to a couple of friends at school and they have either said it could be either A) my remote wire being loose and not giving enough current, or B) my main battery fuse is fried. Quick question is there any way to find out if a AGU Fuse is fried? I have had the fuse for the whole 2 years i've had it. P.s This is my first system i have ever had in my car, i got it installed at Circuit City by the install guy that works there. When i first got it installed it worked fine. Sometimes the amp would go on and off at times. Also another thing i noticed that the guy who installed the system left wires dangling from where my foot petal and brake petal is. They definitely got in the way of my feet. Ill post the specs of my system.

Sony Xplod XM-1002HX - Apparently one of the rare underrated amps from Sony.

Amplifier max output power / channel qty 230 Watts x 2

Amplifier continuous power / channel qty 100 Watts x 2

MTX Magnum 12" Subwoofers.

* Dual 12" Loaded Amplified Sub Enclosure

* 1000 Watts Power Handling

* 500 Watts RMS Power Handling

* Frequency Response: 20 Hz 300 Hz

* Impedance: 2 Ohm

* Subwoofer Size: 12 Inches

* High Level Input

* Low Level Input

* Polymer Cone

* Polyether Surround

* Box Dimensions: 31.25" L x 20" W x 15.5" H�

* Dual 12" Loaded Sealed Magnum Subwoofer Enclosure

* Power Handling:

o Peak: 500 watts

o RMS: 100 watts

* Impedance: 4 Ohm

* Polymer coated pulp cone

* Foam surround

* Frequency response: 20-300 Hz

Also another thing, it was a deal that i got 2 years ago and i was using the stock amp it came with but i then decided to switch to the sony amp that my brother had been using for quite some years. The Sony amp worked fine when i placed it in my car but after the amp stopped working my subs have just been sitting there. Sorry for the long post... I am new to this ! Looking for helpful tips. Any would be appreciated.

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[steven408ca]

Sony XM 1002HX - amplifier specifications

* General

* Product Type Amplifier

* Recommended Use Car

* Width 10.2 in

* Depth 9.1 in

* Height 2.0 in

* Weight 7.3 lbs

* Dimensions (WxDxH) / Weight Amplifier : 10.2 in x 9.1 in x 2.0 in / 7.3 lbs

* Enclosure Color Blue

* Enclosure Material Metal

* Audio System

* Sound Output Mode Stereo

* Controls Gain

* Max Output Power / Channel Qty 230 Watts x 2

* Continuous Power / Channel Qty 100 Watts x 2

* Input Channel Qty 2.0

* Output Channel Qty 2.0

* High Level Inputs Yes

* Input Signal Voltage 0.2 - 4V

* Crossover Active crossover

* Crossover Channel Qty 2

* Crossover Slope 12.0 dB/octave

* Low Pass Frequencies 50 - 200 Hz

* High Pass Frequencies 50 - 200 Hz

* Bass Boost Frequency 40 Hz

* Bass Boost Gain 0 to +10dB

* Distortion Factor 0.005%

* Amplifier Output Details 140.0 Watt - 4.0 Ohm - THD 0.1 % - 14.4V DC - 2.0 channel(s) , 280.0 Watt - 2.0 Ohm - THD 0.1 % - 14.4V DC - 2.0 channel(s) , 100.0 Watt - 4.0 Ohm - THD 0.04 % - 14.4V DC - 1.0 channel(s)

* Soft Start / Quiet Turn-On Yes

* Additional Features Gold plated connectors

* Radio

* Type None

* CD System

* CD system type None

* TV Tuner

* Type None

* Connections

* Connector Type 1.0 x Audio line-out ( Screw-type ) , 4.0 x Speakers input ( RCA phono x 2 ) , 1.0 x Audio line-in ( Screw-type ) , 3.0 x Speakers output ( RCA phono x 2 ) , 2.0 x DC power input ( Click-fit x 2 )

Here are the specs for the Amp. Sorry if it is long :X.

 

[brynm 10+ year member]

Easiest way to make sure a fuse is good is a continuity tester. You could use a multimeter set to measure resistance. or just take a voltmeter and check you have 12 volts at both your power and remote lies on you amp.

 

[steven408ca]

Well i have already tested out the power through the power cable but what i have been reading it should be at 12v while the car is on, correct?