Need advice on SPL build.

well in most orgs there are lists of products that can be used.so using dyno,fat,peel and seal, just makes sense if he is trying for a lower class and not extreme or super mod. when doing deadener its best to test it every time. in my current vehicle i placed my hands on the roof (not pushing) just a dead weight and i lost 1 db from it so no mat is ever going on there. but as for my doors i used 2 layers of peel and seal behind the super small door panel huge difference in sound when closing the door. i didnt test the doors because i wanted them done regardless.
Asphalt is actually a better choice in this application because it isn't a vibration damper. Has all of the known durability problems but if you are looking for some mass and stiffening and can live with the potential problems it makes sense if you need to comply with specific rules. I've had some discussions with a few of the rule makers at some of the relevant organizations and was told that the rules would be clarified in the future. If you're allowed to apply a certain thickness of asphalt or butyl with a foil facing, you should be able to apply the same thickness of fiberglass or glue aluminum to the sheet metal with a rigid adhesive.

 
Asphalt is actually a better choice in this application because it isn't a vibration damper. Has all of the known durability problems but if you are looking for some mass and stiffening and can live with the potential problems it makes sense if you need to comply with specific rules. I've had some discussions with a few of the rule makers at some of the relevant organizations and was told that the rules would be clarified in the future. If you're allowed to apply a certain thickness of asphalt or butyl with a foil facing, you should be able to apply the same thickness of fiberglass or glue aluminum to the sheet metal with a rigid adhesive.
fiberglass would be nice! over on termpro there is a couple of pandas that they turned upside down to do some kind of deadener on the roof

 
yeah i dont think mdf is pourus. why would you seal the box on the outside when all the pressure comes from the inside?it would just blow the tape right off now if this were true you would want to seal it from the inside so it could not blow the tape off right?
Mdf is porous the reason it can absorb water. But fiberglassing the inside is the best way to fix that.

 
Don't run at 1/2 ohm. I've been using AP1500's for a year now and they couldn't handle 1/4 ohm guaranteed. Even during a burp.

As others have mentioned, the key to getting loud:

- test for optimal box size

- test for optimal box placement

- test for optimal tuning

- seal and stiffen everything (box, rear quarterpanel vents, A/C vents, edges of plastic panels, etc)

- test various positions for seats, headrests, visors, doors, windows

Getting to know your equipment is the best way to become a world-class competitor. Spend the time and test systematically.

 
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