Need Advice - 2005 Ford Mustang Coupe Build

[munchy_cool 10+ year member]

A noob to subs and amps but have been reading for last 2-3 days.

Looking to put 2 subs and an amp in my 2005 Ford Mustang Coupe. Looking to keep the stock speakers (the 8 inch stock subs are currently disconnected). Already have an aftermarket head unit (Sony CDX-GT700HD) which I am assuming is good, but would change if needed.

Would like to keep the build to 700W RMS, I have a stock alternator which is 130a and prefer not to change it and also not put too much load on it. Am I correct is assuming that a 700W RMS build would need 112a thereby not putting much load on the alternator?

Subs

Looking for two 10 or 12 inch subs, dual coil at 4 ohms each. Will I really need 2 subs or would 1 be enough?

Amp

An amp to power the above subs.

Budget 400-500 for subs and amp (wiring, box have a separate budget)

Music Taste

Would prefer tight bass (which I guess can be achieved by using a sealed box). Listen to all types of music from Lean On to Sly Boggy that's my name.

Click to read more...

 

[CSCStang]

A noob to subs and amps but have been reading for last 2-3 days.
Looking to put 2 subs and an amp in my 2005 Ford Mustang Coupe. Looking to keep the stock speakers (the 8 inch stock subs are currently disconnected). Already have an aftermarket head unit (Sony CDX-GT700HD) which I am assuming is good, but would change if needed.

Would like to keep the build to 700W RMS, I have a stock alternator which is 130a and prefer not to change it and also not put too much load on it. Am I correct is assuming that a 700W RMS build would need 112a thereby not putting much load on the alternator?

Subs

Looking for two 10 or 12 inch subs, dual coil at 4 ohms each. Will I really need 2 subs or would I be enough?

Amp

An amp to power the above subs.

Budget 400-500 for subs and amp (wiring, box have a separate budget)

Music Taste

Would prefer tight bass (which I guess can be achieved by using a sealed box). Listen to all types of music from Lean On to Sly Boggy that's my name.

Triple post

 

[CSCStang]

A noob to subs and amps but have been reading for last 2-3 days.
Looking to put 2 subs and an amp in my 2005 Ford Mustang Coupe. Looking to keep the stock speakers (the 8 inch stock subs are currently disconnected). Already have an aftermarket head unit (Sony CDX-GT700HD) which I am assuming is good, but would change if needed.

Would like to keep the build to 700W RMS, I have a stock alternator which is 130a and prefer not to change it and also not put too much load on it. Am I correct is assuming that a 700W RMS build would need 112a thereby not putting much load on the alternator?

Subs

Looking for two 10 or 12 inch subs, dual coil at 4 ohms each. Will I really need 2 subs or would I be enough?

Amp

An amp to power the above subs.

Budget 400-500 for subs and amp (wiring, box have a separate budget)

Music Taste

Would prefer tight bass (which I guess can be achieved by using a sealed box). Listen to all types of music from Lean On to Sly Boggy that's my name.

...

 

[CSCStang]

A noob to subs and amps but have been reading for last 2-3 days.
Looking to put 2 subs and an amp in my 2005 Ford Mustang Coupe. Looking to keep the stock speakers (the 8 inch stock subs are currently disconnected). Already have an aftermarket head unit (Sony CDX-GT700HD) which I am assuming is good, but would change if needed.

Would like to keep the build to 700W RMS, I have a stock alternator which is 130a and prefer not to change it and also not put too much load on it. Am I correct is assuming that a 700W RMS build would need 112a thereby not putting much load on the alternator?

Subs

Looking for two 10 or 12 inch subs, dual coil at 4 ohms each. Will I really need 2 subs or would I be enough?

Amp

An amp to power the above subs.

Budget 400-500 for subs and amp (wiring, box have a separate budget)

Music Taste

Would prefer tight bass (which I guess can be achieved by using a sealed box). Listen to all types of music from Lean On to Sly Boggy that's my name.

...

 

[CSCStang]

I can get you stupid loud with solid clean bass on 2 8's in a tline (hds208). Pm me if you're interested. Very affordable.

 

[CSCStang]

Edit

 

[CSCStang]

..

 

[CSCStang]

What up with the triple posts? Sorry op. Smh.

 

[munchy_cool 10+ year member]

I can get you stupid loud with solid clean bass on 2 8's in a tline (hds208). Pm me if you're interested. Very affordable.

Well, won't the 2 hds208's require me to put in a new alternator?

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

Would like to keep the build to 700W RMS, I have a stock alternator which is 130a and prefer not to change it and also not put too much load on it. Am I correct is assuming that a 700W RMS build would need 112a thereby not putting much load on the alternator?

No, you're wrong about the current draw. You're right that it wouldn't put much of a load on the alternator, at least compared to what might actually draw 112A. With music playing, not sine waves at maximum volume, you would be fine with double that power, provided your battery and alternator are in good condition and you augment some of the factory wiring.

Don't focus much on the number of subs, the size of the cone(s), the number of voice coils, or for that matter a sealed box to get tight bass. You'd probably be shocked at how loud a single ported sub can sound, as well as how tight or accurate it can sound. How much space do you want to give up for the box? Your trunk makes it tough to get a sub box to fit nicely because of the slanted floor, plus the trunk opening is small. It would be best to have an enclosure built specifically for your needs and for the vehicle.

 

[munchy_cool 10+ year member]

No, you're wrong about the current draw. You're right that it wouldn't put much of a load on the alternator, at least compared to what might actually draw 112A. With music playing, not sine waves at maximum volume, you would be fine with double that power, provided your battery and alternator are in good condition and you augment some of the factory wiring.
Don't focus much on the number of subs, the size of the cone(s), the number of voice coils, or for that matter a sealed box to get tight bass. You'd probably be shocked at how loud a single ported sub can sound, as well as how tight or accurate it can sound. How much space do you want to give up for the box? Your trunk makes it tough to get a sub box to fit nicely because of the slanted floor, plus the trunk opening is small. It would be best to have an enclosure built specifically for your needs and for the vehicle.

Actually i read somewhere that every 100W RMS needs 16a from the alternator hence I came up with that number, but then again the source of that information could be wrong.

I personally was thinking of removing the rear seat (it's useless) and getting a sub box made to point the sub towards the hood instead of the back. As for trunk space I am open to ideas, I can use up the whole trunk if needed but that would require me to sound proof the trunk (hope I am correct).

I can get the sub box made specifically for my vehicle once I decide what sub(s) and amp I need to go for in a budget of 400-500. I was recommended below setup by a friend:-

Sub - ID

Amp - Zapco

It looks like a good setup to me, but I am a noob hence looking for opinions. From what I have a read, Kicker CVR with a Kenwood Class D amp is a good setup. But the more I read, the more confused I get.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

What I would do is figure out the box dimensions and then decide on the subwoofer as the two go hand-in-hand. Forcing a subwoofer into a space that's too small, for example, is going to lead to little deep bass and an overly punchy and peaky sounding box. A great box can make even average subwoofers perform beyond expectations.

A two-piece box design can be used for maximum volume(size, not loudness, although it could be quite loud), such as this box that is custom built to your needs: 2005-2014 Ford Mustang Sub Box Large Rear Fire Ported Sub Box

Here are two alternatives to the large ported box:

2005-2009 Ford Mustang Sub Box Downfire

2005-2014 Ford Mustang Sub Box Rear Fire

Usually a single brand of subs and amps will have a combination that will work for you. They don't have to be the same brand, but I'm trying to help narrow down your options as there are thousands of combinations. Are you buying new or used? Online or local brick and mortar dealer?

 

[munchy_cool 10+ year member]

What I would do is figure out the box dimensions and then decide on the subwoofer as the two go hand-in-hand. Forcing a subwoofer into a space that's too small, for example, is going to lead to little deep bass and an overly punchy and peaky sounding box. A great box can make even average subwoofers perform beyond expectations.
A two-piece box design can be used for maximum volume(size, not loudness, although it could be quite loud), such as this box that is custom built to your needs: 2005-2014 Ford Mustang Sub Box Large Rear Fire Ported Sub Box

Here are two alternatives to the large ported box:

2005-2009 Ford Mustang Sub Box Downfire

2005-2014 Ford Mustang Sub Box Rear Fire

Usually a single brand of subs and amps will have a combination that will work for you. They don't have to be the same brand, but I'm trying to help narrow down your options as there are thousands of combinations. Are you buying new or used? Online or local brick and mortar dealer?

If i were to go for a sealed box, I would buy this one. This has 1 cubic per sub.

Ford Mustang Coupe 05-15 Custom Fit Dual 12" Subwoofer Box - 2X12FORD-05-09-MSTNG

As for the subs and amps, I plan to buy them online during Thanksgiving unless I get a crazy deal for used one's here on forum or say locally on Craigslist.

 

[CSCStang]

Well, won't the 2 hds208's require me to put in a new alternator?

No you wouldn't. It's a transmission line enclosure so you don't need a lot of power at all. I have a 135 stock at and I'm giving mine close to 1800rms. Voltage drop is very minimal, down to 13.4. It's a 2012 Mustang.

 

[munchy_cool 10+ year member]

No you wouldn't. It's a transmission line enclosure so you don't need a lot of power at all. I have a 135 stock at and I'm giving mine close to 1800rms. Voltage drop is very minimal, down to 13.4. It's a 2012 Mustang.

The alternators on the 2005-2009 are weaker as compared to 2010 and above. Let me think about your offer and I will get back to you sir, I do not have the moolah right away as I am saving up and planning on buying over Thanksgiving (hoping for some crazy Black Friday deals).

PS:- I did see your work on facebook and I do like it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif