Need a nice component system for a truck.

[dwynne 10+ year member]

Take the money you were going to spend on extra amp channels for the rear and for the rear speakers and buy better stuff for the front //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif .

The Kicker KX3 or the Clarion MCD360 would work, but those are just fairly inexpensive ones they sell at online stores - there are tons more.

You would run line outs from the head unit to a 3-way x-over, then run your sub amp off of the x-over and have 4 RCAs coming off that would go to a 4 channel amp. Those would be left tweet, right tweet, left mid, right mid. You would wire the outputs of the 4 channel amp directly to the tweets and mids without using the passive crossover supplied with the component speakers. Some of the passive crossovers have a tweeter current protector that you would lose if you don't use their x-over, so you would need to set the levels on the tweet channels so you did not over-drive them - or use some type of "fuse" to limit the current.

You could also run the sub off the headunit (since it has a sub out) and use a 2 way x-over to drive the 4 channels.

Dennis

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

What truck?

 

[DejaWiz 5,000+ posts]

1. Take the money you were going to spend on extra amp channels for the rear and for the rear speakers and buy better stuff for the front //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif .

2. The Kicker KX3 or the Clarion MCD360 would work, but those are just fairly inexpensive ones they sell at online stores - there are tons more.

You would run line outs from the head unit to a 3-way x-over, then run your sub amp off of the x-over and have 4 RCAs coming off that would go to a 4 channel amp. Those would be left tweet, right tweet, left mid, right mid. You would wire the outputs of the 4 channel amp directly to the tweets and mids without using the passive crossover supplied with the component speakers. Some of the passive crossovers have a tweeter current protector that you would lose if you don't use their x-over, so you would need to set the levels on the tweet channels so you did not over-drive them - or use some type of "fuse" to limit the current.

3. You could also run the sub off the headunit (since it has a sub out) and use a 2 way x-over to drive the 4 channels.

Dennis

1. Agreed.

2. Don't both of those 3way xovers lack a band-pass for the midranges? I'd recommend the Memphis 16-XO3 or the Profile RX30R, which both have band-pass filters and are fairly inexpensive with a bit of looking.

3. I'd recommend just running a 3-way active setup, although that can be a viable alternative.

 

[dwynne 10+ year member]

2. Don't both of those 3way xovers lack a band-pass for the midranges? I'd recommend the Memphis 16-XO3 or the Profile RX30R, which both have band-pass filters and are fairly inexpensive with a bit of looking.

I think the KX3 would work, I just grabbed the model numbers from the first place I checked. The two models you mention should work fine and can be had for less.

The only question would be - is the 4 channel enough amp to run the mids to the levels the owner desires? If so, then it would seem a non-brainer - pay $5-10 more for the 4 channel amp and $40-50 for the x-over and toss the passives that come with the components.

Dennis

 

[DejaWiz 5,000+ posts]

Probably not. But if the money is going to be invested to run a 3-way active setup down the road, why start with a bridged 4 channel and passive crossovers only to lose that bridged power when it comes time to go active?

Start with a stonger 2 channel, and if you want to go active (which I wouldn't do with a cheaper set of passive comps anyway), then buy a fairly low power and inexpensive 2 channel at that time to drive the tweeters.

 

[dwynne 10+ year member]

I think the 1000 and 1040 run the same power when you bridge the 1040 to 2 channels and it looks to sell for $5 more. So I was thinking you could run it now bridged passive or try it active and not be out much money at all. If you end up running it bridged for the mids it has the same power for $5-10 more and if it will run loud enough in 4 channel more then you are done //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif . He did say he has a truck, maybe the cab is small enough to give him what he wants?

Dennis

 

[DejaWiz 5,000+ posts]

My main concern is misbass authority with 75w vs 150w rms on those RSd's. All the reviews I've read state that applying around 150w rms per channel really make them shine for such a small price tag.

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Uhh.. :S

How would a active crossover fit into a setup with one 2-Channel Amp, one Mono Amp, and one component system?

Or would I be required to get and somehow bridge a 4-Channel amplifier to a 2-Channels(something Ive never done before) and make it send power seperately to the the midbass and tweeters but how would the active crossover be wired in that situation?

Never done any of this before but I think one component system should be sufficient for the cab of a truck.

 

[dwynne 10+ year member]

I think I have succeeded in confusing you //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif .

With a 2 channel amp, one pair of components, and one sub amp/woofer you would not need or use an active crossover - you would use the passive crossover that comes with the component set and the line out and sub out from your head unit.

You could use an active to split the aux out from the head unit to feed the two channel amp and the sub amp, if you wanted to. An external active crossover may offer better sound and more adjustments than your head unit would

For better sound you would need 4 channels for the components and 1 channel for the sub. To get this you would use a 3 way active crossover to split the line outs from the head unit and feed the tweeter amp, the mids amp, and the sub amp. You could do this with 3 amps or with 2 amps (a 4 channel + sub amp) and some folks make a 5 channel amp you could use. In this case you need the 3 way active crossover and would not use the passive crossovers that come with the components as you would feed each tweet and mid directly from an amp channel.

As DejaWiz suggested, you could get the 2 channel amp now and run passive and see how that sounds. If that works for you, then you are done. For better sound you could later add an active crossover and a 2nd 2 channel amp.

Dennis