My Upcoming Audio Install...Need feedback!

[envengineer 10+ year member]

How can you go active if your only using 2 channels for the front stage? You can not bridge your 4 channel amp, 2 of those channels have to go to your tweetes, then the other 2 to your midbase/range.
Xover the tweets HP around 4000hz-5000hz and LP the midrange from the tweeer frequency and HP it around 80hz. The subs can have 80hz and down.

Just forget about rearfill, and changing out your 12's for 10's for SQ is crap, your setup now is fine.

I agree for the most part.

When you set the crossovers for the mid/tweet transition, it's probably a good idea to leave a gap since the crossovers points are not brick walls, but slopes. You have to look at the individual drivers to know where the crossover points should be. I cross my tweeters around 2.4khz and my mids are crossed around 1.8 khz down to my midbass at 200 hz.

The "forget about rearfill" comment is correct. You don't need it. It's obviously up to you, but I hate the way it pulls back the stage that I work so hard to move forward.

Don't push that DIYMA too hard if it is going to be in a very small box. They are not designed for high output (even though they are capable). The motor has been shown to be a little too strong for the cone when placed in small enclosures that result in the cone buckling or tearing due to high pressure. Just be smart with the DIYMA and it will perform very very well.

 

[maxazor 10+ year member]

I forgot to mention I have a 2x100 Soundstream could run the tweeters off of. Not sure about any issues with different amps and such

 

[envengineer 10+ year member]

No issue with different amps. I run three different brands.

 

[maxazor 10+ year member]

Well my question would be from the DEQ30, I will be sending selected freqeuncies to the amplifiers. so 1.) If I only use the PPI four channel and run the tweeter and mids. Since the DEQ30 only has 1 external output (R/L). How would this work? Do I only select mids or tweets on my crossover points?

2.) Same question just with two amplifiers

I need a map //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Thanks again,

Josh

 

[Babs 10+ year member]

Don't push that DIYMA too hard if it is going to be in a very small box. They are not designed for high output (even though they are capable). The motor has been shown to be a little too strong for the cone when placed in small enclosures that result in the cone buckling or tearing due to high pressure. Just be smart with the DIYMA and it will perform very very well.

I'm about to purchase one as well.. What would be an appropriate enclosure size to minimize risk with the DIYMA? 1 CF maybe? 1.2? Other? ... I was considering a fiberglass spare-tire enclosure with a solid mdf front baffle in the Forester cargo bay with this sub.. IF it'll fit.. it looks like a beast.. I've got to do some measuring.. Might have to do a side-mounted box.

 

[maxazor 10+ year member]

I'm going to be placing mine in a 1.0 CF sealed fiberglass box as a side mount. At least if I don't like them I can put my Infinity Kappas back in.

 

[Babs 10+ year member]

I'm considering a sealed fiberglass spare-tire project if I can squeeze 1cf out of a box in that compartment.. Something like this setup that a guy sells on Ebay for my Forester, except home-made (because I need to learn how):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=006&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=160126792543&rd=1&rd=1

Whata ya think?

 

[maxazor 10+ year member]

IMO you can make your own much cheaper than the $200 they are asking for. So like you said, learn how and DIY and it might take a few tries, but it's all part of the learning process. GL

 

[Babs 10+ year member]

Yeah I agree.. plus I can make it completely to my own design.. I've been reading up a bit in tons of different threads and sites on how it's done.. The whole resin and fiberglass stuff.. I just haven't found huge detail on how guys attach MDF to the fiberglass.. Lots of glue-resin etc.

I'd have a fiberglass formed "bowl" that fills the spare tire, allowing more volume, attached to the bottom of an MDF "box" of relatively short height to flush up to the cargo-floor.

Also, I guess I'll have to find out where to buy the supplies/material.

 

[maxazor 10+ year member]

I have a book on how to do it, too bad I don't have a scanner. I'll do a quick explanation.

Its almost the same way you do kickpanels, but on a larger application. First build a square frame enclosure that fits your wheel well. Make sure its the size of your baffle build block extentions so it is. Build your sub baffle and attach it to your frame via screws. then take fleece and stretch it out over your enclosure, glass, bondo, sand, paint and your done.

 

[Babs 10+ year member]

badda boom badda bing! Sounds easy.. I'll whip one up this evening then. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

hehehe yeah right.

"baffle build block extensions" ??????//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

Actually even easier.. glass, sand, carpet... done.. No bondo..

It's actually going under the flip-up floor panel that I'm thinking will be cut with grill cover to access the sub to the cabin.

.... sorry Josh.. I totally didn't mean to hijack your thread. Your setup looks awesome by the way. Only thing I would have liked in that setup is some form of time alignment.. It's a processing feature that I appreciate big-time.