My amp is ******* my subs inward!!

substance
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I put 2 new TS-W1500spl 10's in my truck today and hooked them up to this old amp i had, Rockford Fostgate 1000a2. I had the subs wired series @4 ohms, Which the amp likes bridged. I jammed it for about 15 minutes. Then i blew a fuse when i was playing a bass test cd. i only had an 80 amp agu (i know my amp needs a 100anl or 2 50 agu fuses) But anyways, I turned the car off, put in a new fuse, and right when the remote came on, pop goes the fuse (blew 4 80 guage in a row). i put a new fuse in with the wires to the subs unhooked, and the fuse didnt blow, ( went home, check the wiring in the box, everything was perfect) I then ran the subs on one channel instead of bridged (fuse didnt pop), and right when the remote came on. My subs started ******* inward, really hard. and there was no bass. ( i even took a sub out and ran brand new wiring to it then to the amp and it still ****** in) When i turned the cd player off the subs when back to normal. I hooked the subs up to my old amp, and they work perfectly @ 4 ohms. So i know its not the subs, its the amp, any similar expieriences? or ways i can check to see if i could fix something in my amp?

What really trips me out, is how the hell did that amp work perfect and then start acting this way.?

 
the guy at car toys used a multimeter to test my speaker impendence levels to check my total ohm load (and he said it was 1 ohm, but i dont know if that thing was working right or not, cause before that he was like 1.8 ohms, and now, without changing any wiring, the subs are running perfect on my PPI PC2600 which doesnt take under a 4 ohm load. I just want more power :-( One thing i forgot to mention, When my Fosgate amp was working, It was dropping my voltage down to ~12v when i would idle at a light, car would almost die. I had this same amp in my Suburban, and i had to get 2 batterys, rewound alternator and a cap, plus i have litterly burned myself on the amp before. So im guessing internally theres something really messed up.

 
If your subs are 4ohms SVC the wire 2 subs in series to 8ohms(2subs as in a pair) then after you wire both sets to 8ohms, then wire them in parallel for a 4ohm load!

Hopefully that should help out?

 
I put 2 new TS-W1500spl 10's in my truck today and hooked them up to this old amp i had, Rockford Fostgate 1000a2. I had the subs wired series @4 ohms, Which the amp likes bridged. I jammed it for about 15 minutes. Then i blew a fuse when i was playing a bass test cd. i only had an 80 amp agu (i know my amp needs a 100anl or 2 50 agu fuses) But anyways, I turned the car off, put in a new fuse, and right when the remote came on, pop goes the fuse (blew 4 80 guage in a row). i put a new fuse in with the wires to the subs unhooked, and the fuse didnt blow, ( went home, check the wiring in the box, everything was perfect) I then ran the subs on one channel instead of bridged (fuse didnt pop), and right when the remote came on. My subs started ******* inward, really hard. and there was no bass. ( i even took a sub out and ran brand new wiring to it then to the amp and it still ****** in) When i turned the cd player off the subs when back to normal. I hooked the subs up to my old amp, and they work perfectly @ 4 ohms. So i know its not the subs, its the amp, any similar expieriences? or ways i can check to see if i could fix something in my amp?
What really trips me out, is how the hell did that amp work perfect and then start acting this way.?

Sounds like some kind of DC offset voltage from the amp. Use the voltage meter again with no input signal to the amp and see if there is any DC voltage output at the amp speaker wires. Should be very very little if any..

 
i havent heard bout no ohm load or volt problem causing that

, check you phase there are adjustments on your head unit(sometimes) and your amp there maybe a reverb switch witch is what wil fix you problem or if your + and - are back wards that cause your speakers to jump in instead of out, thats how people put there speakers int there box with the magnet out, by flip the + and _ around you change the phase, if you have trouble undering standing any of this email me and ill rephrase it, or if you have any other questions hit me up.....kenwoodvx_307@hotmail.com

 
I dont think his subs are moving back and forth, I think they are just being pulled inward. Only DC voltage would do that. A shorted output device that puts the power supplys DC voltage rail to the speaker wires would cause that...

 
i took the amp into a shop to get repaired, i am still waiting for an estimate and to see what they come up with, but i did check the impedance level of my sub wiring and its 3.5 ohms, :-( so i guess my wiring is screwed up in there. the amp was only stable at 4 ohms mono and i had the gain cranked up, plus it wasnt mounted it was just wedged in between the box and the rear of my truck, so maybe something got bumped loose...

 
you WEDGED the amp between the box and the rear of your truck? what do you mean by rear of your truck? Did you ever think you'd get enough ventilation there, if you WEDGED an amp in there?

 
I dont think his subs are moving back and forth, I think they are just being pulled inward. Only DC voltage would do that. A shorted output device that puts the power supplys DC voltage rail to the speaker wires would cause that...
Not to mention if they were out of phase from each other then only 1 would pull while the other pushed.

the guy at car toys used a multimeter to test my speaker impendence levels to check my total ohm load (and he said it was 1 ohm, but i dont know if that thing was working right or not, cause before that he was like 1.8 ohms, and now, without changing any wiring, the subs are running perfect on my PPI PC2600 which doesnt take under a 4 ohm load
.
Remember that the ohm rating of any speaker is an AVERAGE rating which changes all the time. So chances are there was nothing wrong his multi meter. If I were you I would wire those in series/parallel to show your PPI a 4 ohm load.

Adam //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
I put 2 new TS-W1500spl 10's in my truck today and hooked them up to this old amp i had, Rockford Fostgate 1000a2. I had the subs wired series @4 ohms, Which the amp likes bridged. I jammed it for about 15 minutes. Then i blew a fuse when i was playing a bass test cd. i only had an 80 amp agu (i know my amp needs a 100anl or 2 50 agu fuses) But anyways, I turned the car off, put in a new fuse, and right when the remote came on, pop goes the fuse (blew 4 80 guage in a row). i put a new fuse in with the wires to the subs unhooked, and the fuse didnt blow, ( went home, check the wiring in the box, everything was perfect) I then ran the subs on one channel instead of bridged (fuse didnt pop), and right when the remote came on. My subs started ******* inward, really hard. and there was no bass. ( i even took a sub out and ran brand new wiring to it then to the amp and it still ****** in) When i turned the cd player off the subs when back to normal. I hooked the subs up to my old amp, and they work perfectly @ 4 ohms. So i know its not the subs, its the amp, any similar expieriences? or ways i can check to see if i could fix something in my amp?
What really trips me out, is how the hell did that amp work perfect and then start acting this way.?
you blew a resistor in your amp. the only way to fix it would be to replace the part that is small as hell. not only is it small, you would also have to find out wich one it is it would be a real pain to fix

 
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