MIDBASS Help

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

simple Q:

If i wanna have 2 8inch midbass speakers to replace the rear stock speakers would i need a get a crossover??

couse i was thinking:

Rainbow Germ in the front

2 8inch midbass in the rear

1 12inch idmax for a sub

AMPS:

Arc Audio KAR600.4 for the comps and midbass

Arc Audio KAR900.1D for the sub.

Any ideas?

PS: i did some searchin on the midbass and i could not find out if they need a crossover or not

Click to read more...

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

Yes, they would need to be bandpassed (both highpassed and lowpassed)

Why exactly do you want to run such large midbass drivers in the rear?

 

[Trey803 5,000+ posts]

Well some cd players have a rear and front variable crossover so not neccisarily....but if you wanna do it ballin out of control and also the best way yes you shold go active mainly all about how much money you got....unless you got a stock cd player or one with no crossover....mine only has hpf..YES you need one or if your gunna use an amp to power these babies which you should it should have a crossover on it so you could just go passive but active seems to be the shit these days and hopefully one day i will be all active

 

[Trey803 5,000+ posts]

O yea not a class D most class D amp dont have a lpf and hpf you will need both so get a 2 channel a/b amplifier with both crossovers...

 

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

Yes, they would need to be bandpassed (both highpassed and lowpassed)
Why exactly do you want to run such large midbass drivers in the rear?

What would be a ideal size for a midbass for the rear?

 

[yacob.naif 10+ year member]

all you need is a low pass filter, and you could use a 60 or 80hz "bass blocker" as a hpf

 

[yacob.naif 10+ year member]

What would be a ideal size for a midbass for the rear?

none, it's going to pull your soundstage back

just improve your front midbass

 

[forbidden 10+ year member]

I agree with Squeak. Those are some pretty large drivers to stick in the back for a bandwidth limited response (bandpass as was pointed out). They would need their own enclosures as well. You will need a bandpass crossover, look to Audio Control for this. Nothing wrong with using a class D amplifier for this application. If the bandpass crossover is before the amp, the signal is not going to care what kind or brand of amp is doing the work.

 

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

O yea not a class D most class D amp dont have a lpf and hpf you will need both so get a 2 channel a/b amplifier with both crossovers...

H/U im going to get has a crossover in it allready. it has front, rear and sub.

would it be correct to use the front for the germs, the rear for the midbass, and the sub for the IDMAX? without any extra crossovers?

 

[forbidden 10+ year member]

You are creating a 3way system. The outcome of the system is going to be dependent on the crossover built into the cd player. What is the slope of the crossover in the head as well. How adjustable is the crossover. These need to be answered first before we can determine if the built in is the way to go or if indeed a outboard and probably superior crossover is the way to go.

Most crossovers in cd players are only 2 way, hp and lp. What does yours have?

 

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

none, it's going to pull your soundstage back
just improve your front midbass

im no expert but the front comps is a tweet and a midrange right?? there is not midbass for the front.

 

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

You are creating a 3way system. The outcome of the system is going to be dependent on the crossover built into the cd player. What is the slope of the crossover in the head as well. How adjustable is the crossover. These need to be answered first before we can determine if the built in is the way to go or if indeed a outboard and probably superior crossover is the way to go.
Most crossovers in cd players are only 2 way, hp and lp. What does yours have?

Kenwood P-NAV6019 the H/U i wanna get

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16951

 

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

this is what crutchfield says: about rear fill

Adjusting for rear fill

Once you have your front speakers set up the way you want them, you'll want to make sure that your rear speakers are doing their part to create an ideal soundstage. While personal taste plays a role here, most experts agree that you should adjust the volume level for rear speakers so that you're barely conscious of their presence.

While your front speakers should give you the best midrange and high frequencies possible, your rear speakers can be conventional coaxials or low frequency drivers. Their purpose is to add ambience and depth to your forward soundstage and if they reveal too much high frequency information, they'll "pull" the stereo image to the rear of your vehicle, away from where you want it.

isnt a low frequency drivers a midbass??

 

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

sooo the thread dies lol:crying:

 

[squeak9798 5,000+ posts]

im no expert but the front comps is a tweet and a midrange right?? there is not midbass for the front.

There should be midbass for the front. In your case, the Germ comp set will be producing the midbass aswell, assuming the mid is of decent size (5.25" or larger, which again in your case they are).

Ideally, you want all of the sound to be generated from infront of you. Very few people are capable of placing the main (or most powerful) midbass drivers behind the front seats and still be able to maintain even decent imaging.

And a properly set up frontstage should be able to provide "ambience and depth" without the additional of rear-mounted midbass. Especially midbass that large, that if not level adjusted properly could potentially overpower the midbass from the front of the car and pull the soundstage backwards.

I would recommend installing the system without the rear midbass, atleast at first. Get everything sounding the best you possibly can without the rear midbass, then see what you think of the system.