Mid level SQL Build Input.

[West]

Maybe when I get a new car I will go to those lengths to soundproof everything. Car's 13+ years old now... just not gonna get enough use out of it I think.

 

[kramer_212 10+ year member]

Maybe when I get a new car I will go to those lengths to soundproof everything. Car's 13+ years old now... just not gonna get enough use out of it I think.

i guess one day i just felt like trying it, seriously guarantee its quieter going down the road than a $400,000 Bentley. and of coarse nothing shakes.

 

[West]

i guess one day i just felt like trying it, seriously guarantee its quieter going down the road than a $400,000 Bentley. and of coarse nothing shakes.

It was a good day...

 

[kramer_212 10+ year member]

It was a good day...

yes and know it was an expensive day about 2 weeks later was a good day lol.

 

[West]

yes and know it was an expensive day about 2 weeks later was a good day lol.

It would be very difficult for me to pony up that much money when my speakers didn't even cost as much as the dampening. I bet it is something very cool though... Can you hear sirens when they drive by?

 

[CHEMMINS 10+ year member]

No car is that soundproof.....the side glass doesn't come acoustical. All the noise you will get in cabin will be through the side glass if you somehow manage to get the rest of the car silent.

Finding acoustical windshields is hard enough. They usually only come on the higher end vehicles. Ford seems to carry to most though.

 

[kramer_212 10+ year member]

It would be very difficult for me to pony up that much money when my speakers didn't even cost as much as the dampening. I bet it is something very cool though... Can you hear sirens when they drive by?

i don't live in the hood lol im sure i could though, i replaced the window seals but it seems like the little noise that comes in is from/around the windows.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Also look at some of the cdt Es 3 way sets

 

[kramer_212 10+ year member]

No car is that soundproof.....the side glass doesn't come acoustical. All the noise you will get in cabin will be through the side glass if you somehow manage to get the rest of the car silent.
Finding acoustical windshields is hard enough. They usually only come on the higher end vehicles. Ford seems to carry to most though.

right, think i went with pcm brand.

although i did put acoustical tint on the back/side windows or film i guess they call it

HAVERKAMP sun protection film technology

 

[kramer_212 10+ year member]

Also look at some of the cdt Es 3 way sets

they look nice and seem to be decently priced.

the biggest reason i like audison is every single component used in every one of there products are built in house, even the capacitors etc.....so quality control is all under one company roof.

 

---------- Post added at 11:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:51 PM ----------

 

No car is that soundproof.....the side glass doesn't come acoustical. All the noise you will get in cabin will be through the side glass if you somehow manage to get the rest of the car silent.
Finding acoustical windshields is hard enough. They usually only come on the higher end vehicles. Ford seems to carry to most though.

but your right sound still comes through the windows.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

1. should i put a 6.5 and tweeters in the center or leave the 3 inchers.

Just a 3" in the center is sufficient. More than that sacrifices placement and introduces phase interference issues. KISS

2. 2 6.5s in front door or a 6.5 and an 8

Don't mix sizes in the same airspace. I vote just one 8" midbass. KISS

3. 3 way comp in rear doors or put them in the rear deck (fiberglessed into c-pillar)

Why? Rear highs are not advised. Just the 3's are sufficient for rear fill.

4. the bit ten seems to be a better option thoughts?

A good choice if you want a center channel.

5. any other suggestions (I;m staying with the voce series) as far as speaker amount/ location im fine with taking away or adding speakers.

Less is better overall. Keep it simple. I see hundreds of hours of effort in this build.

6. thinking active the bit ten has 8 channels 10 if you include the center and subwoofer. or should i do a passive system.

Active

 

[kramer_212 10+ year member]

1. should i put a 6.5 and tweeters in the center or leave the 3 inchers.Just a 3" in the center is sufficient. More than that sacrifices placement and introduces phase interference issues. KISS

2. 2 6.5s in front door or a 6.5 and an 8

Don't mix sizes in the same airspace. I vote just one 8" midbass. KISS

3. 3 way comp in rear doors or put them in the rear deck (fiberglessed into c-pillar)

Why? Rear highs are not advised. Just the 3's are sufficient for rear fill.

4. the bit ten seems to be a better option thoughts?

A good choice if you want a center channel.

5. any other suggestions (I;m staying with the voce series) as far as speaker amount/ location im fine with taking away or adding speakers.

Less is better overall. Keep it simple. I see hundreds of hours of effort in this build.

6. thinking active the bit ten has 8 channels 10 if you include the center and subwoofer. or should i do a passive system.

Active

thanks secretly i was waiting for you to chime in.

so you think i shouldn't use a 6.5 at all?

and should i put an 8 or 6.5 and a 3 in the rear door or rear deck area?

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

thing is, a 6.5 is fine in a 2-way system. it has enough range to cover 80Hz-4000Hz. but when you go 3-way the game changes. Now you have a dedicated midrange handling 250 and up. the midbass should focus on reproducing 60Hz and up. a good 6.5 can do this, but a comparable 8" can do it better. I will always prefer a single 8 over two 6.5. i measure (and hear) enough phase interference in a car as it is, no reason to make the problem worse. if you just want it loud, add speakers. if you want it to be accurate and natural, minimize the number of speakers. even the latter can easily leave your ears ringing.

since you are heavily relying on the 3's to do most of the work - invest in them heavily. they should be the most expensive speaker. from there you're just adding a pair of 8's and a pair of tweeters. that's all you really NEED. Anything else is just adding speakers to say you added speakers - but they won't help the end result. the reason is that you don't have enough processing to address a 3-way active front and a 3-way active rear. going passive with them won't sound near as good and you'll lose midbass (despite the # of woofers) from phase interference alone.

you will need 10 outputs though

6 for the front left and right stage (midbass, mid, high)

2 for the rear left and right (ideally L-R mix)

1 for center

1 for sub

i have found that the tweeters don't need time alignment, and they could be on the same output channel as the midrange. so that does afford you the ability to reduce down to 8 channels if need be.

a center requires processing to make it sound natural. you want to remove dedicated left and right channel information and only reproduce with is only in left and only in right. you still have level differences to play with (so IID is addressed) but that can come with aiming. IMO a center is only desired for 2-seat car judging. you don't need it from the driver's seat - you can get a center image just fine with T/A to one seat.

 

[kramer_212 10+ year member]

thing is, a 6.5 is fine in a 2-way system. it has enough range to cover 80Hz-4000Hz. but when you go 3-way the game changes. Now you have a dedicated midrange handling 250 and up. the midbass should focus on reproducing 60Hz and up. a good 6.5 can do this, but a comparable 8" can do it better. I will always prefer a single 8 over two 6.5. i measure (and hear) enough phase interference in a car as it is, no reason to make the problem worse. if you just want it loud, add speakers. if you want it to be accurate and natural, minimize the number of speakers. even the latter can easily leave your ears ringing.
since you are heavily relying on the 3's to do most of the work - invest in them heavily. they should be the most expensive speaker. from there you're just adding a pair of 8's and a pair of tweeters. that's all you really NEED. Anything else is just adding speakers to say you added speakers - but they won't help the end result. the reason is that you don't have enough processing to address a 3-way active front and a 3-way active rear. going passive with them won't sound near as good and you'll lose midbass (despite the # of woofers) from phase interference alone.

you will need 10 outputs though

6 for the front left and right stage (midbass, mid, high)

2 for the rear left and right (ideally L-R mix)

1 for center

1 for sub

i have found that the tweeters don't need time alignment, and they could be on the same output channel as the midrange. so that does afford you the ability to reduce down to 8 channels if need be.

a center requires processing to make it sound natural. you want to remove dedicated left and right channel information and only reproduce with is only in left and only in right. you still have level differences to play with (so IID is addressed) but that can come with aiming. IMO a center is only desired for 2-seat car judging. you don't need it from the driver's seat - you can get a center image just fine with T/A to one seat.

makes sence, maybe ill scratch the center channel and put a touch screen there.

 

[kramer_212 10+ year member]

Ttt anybody else?