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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 7864238" data-attributes="member: 576029">thing is, a 6.5 is fine in a 2-way system.&nbsp; it has enough range to cover 80Hz-4000Hz.&nbsp; but when you go 3-way the game changes.&nbsp; Now you have a dedicated midrange handling 250 and up.&nbsp; the midbass should focus on reproducing 60Hz and up.&nbsp; a good 6.5 can do this, but a comparable 8&quot; can do it better.&nbsp; I will always prefer a single 8 over two 6.5.&nbsp;&nbsp; i measure (and hear) enough phase interference in a car as it is, no reason to make the problem worse.&nbsp; &nbsp; if you just want it loud, add speakers. if you want it to be accurate and natural, minimize the number of speakers.&nbsp; even the latter can easily leave your ears ringing.since you are heavily relying on the 3&#039;s to do most of the work - invest in them heavily.&nbsp; they should be the most expensive speaker.&nbsp; from there you&#039;re just adding a pair of 8&#039;s and a pair of tweeters.&nbsp; that&#039;s all you really NEED.&nbsp; Anything else is just adding speakers to say you added speakers - but they won&#039;t help the end result.&nbsp;&nbsp; the reason is that you don&#039;t have enough processing to address a 3-way active front and a 3-way active rear.&nbsp; going passive with them won&#039;t sound near as good and you&#039;ll lose midbass (despite the # of woofers) from phase interference alone.you will need 10 outputs though6 for the front left and right stage (midbass, mid, high)2 for the rear left and right (ideally L-R mix)1 for center1 for subi have found that the tweeters don&#039;t need time alignment, and they could be on the same output channel as the midrange.&nbsp; so that does afford you the ability to reduce down to 8 channels if need be.a center requires processing to make it sound natural. you want to remove dedicated left and right channel information and only reproduce with is only in left and only in right.&nbsp; you still have level differences to play with (so IID is addressed) but that can come with aiming.&nbsp; IMO a center is only desired for 2-seat car judging.&nbsp; you don&#039;t need it from the driver&#039;s seat - you can get a center image just fine with T/A to one seat.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 7864238, member: 576029"] thing is, a 6.5 is fine in a 2-way system. it has enough range to cover 80Hz-4000Hz. but when you go 3-way the game changes. Now you have a dedicated midrange handling 250 and up. the midbass should focus on reproducing 60Hz and up. a good 6.5 can do this, but a comparable 8" can do it better. I will always prefer a single 8 over two 6.5. i measure (and hear) enough phase interference in a car as it is, no reason to make the problem worse. if you just want it loud, add speakers. if you want it to be accurate and natural, minimize the number of speakers. even the latter can easily leave your ears ringing. since you are heavily relying on the 3's to do most of the work - invest in them heavily. they should be the most expensive speaker. from there you're just adding a pair of 8's and a pair of tweeters. that's all you really NEED. Anything else is just adding speakers to say you added speakers - but they won't help the end result. the reason is that you don't have enough processing to address a 3-way active front and a 3-way active rear. going passive with them won't sound near as good and you'll lose midbass (despite the # of woofers) from phase interference alone. you will need 10 outputs though 6 for the front left and right stage (midbass, mid, high) 2 for the rear left and right (ideally L-R mix) 1 for center 1 for sub i have found that the tweeters don't need time alignment, and they could be on the same output channel as the midrange. so that does afford you the ability to reduce down to 8 channels if need be. a center requires processing to make it sound natural. you want to remove dedicated left and right channel information and only reproduce with is only in left and only in right. you still have level differences to play with (so IID is addressed) but that can come with aiming. IMO a center is only desired for 2-seat car judging. you don't need it from the driver's seat - you can get a center image just fine with T/A to one seat. [/QUOTE]

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