Man the Headunit Game Changed audio wise

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Ohhhh...Gotcha, I thought active meant running seperates, but you're talking about really choosing the individual drivers to build your soundstage. Wow! That sounds cool, but way above my head. I was thinking about a set of Morel Maximos or something like that but would totally be up for something like youre talking about if I could do it without needing too much power. Im trying to keep things efficient as I'll be dry camping a lot and using solar to recharge the batteries.

its not gonna be too bad man Let me give you an efficient little front stage design that doesnt cost a lot and is simple to setup.

massive ct 2 tweeters ~55 dollars per pair

ct sounds neo 6.5 ~35 dollars per driver 70 per pair

Soundstream 900.4 ~ 120 dollars for the amp. Lots of power, very little battery drain, amp is efficient as hell.

When you first install the pioneer head unit, it'll ask if you want to do standard or network mode. Choose network.

Then just install RCAs and wire up the tweeters to channel 1 and 2 and mids to 3 and 4. Then just come back on here and i'll do an indepth tutorial on how to fine tune it, but at that point it should already sound pretty darn good. Components s*ck in general unless they are over 200 dollars IMO.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif stay tuned for the paint job....

**** yea!

 

[murphy917]

its not gonna be too bad man Let me give you an efficient little front stage design that doesnt cost a lot and is simple to setup.
massive ct 2 tweeters ~55 dollars per pair

ct sounds neo 6.5 ~35 dollars per driver 70 per pair

Soundstream 900.4 ~ 120 dollars for the amp. Lots of power, very little battery drain, amp is efficient as hell.

When you first install the pioneer head unit, it'll ask if you want to do standard or network mode. Choose network.

Then just install RCAs and wire up the tweeters to channel 1 and 2 and mids to 3 and 4. Then just come back on here and i'll do an indepth tutorial on how to fine tune it, but at that point it should already sound pretty darn good. Components s*ck in general unless they are over 200 dollars IMO.

Cool....That looks great.

I would like to add some type of enclosed sub behind the drivers seat. Something like a 10" shallow box of some sort. Here is a Pioneer and here is a Kicker either would fit.

Would it be best to just get a 5 channel amp to drive the sub as well? would you stick with one of the soundstream 5ch amps for bang4buck?

Finally, I wonder if I would still be able to use the HU power to drive the rear speakers or would they no get used in this type of setup?

Thanks for the suggestions btw...big help!

-Murph

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Cool....That looks great.
I would like to add some type of enclosed sub behind the drivers seat. Something like a 10" shallow box of some sort. Here is a Pioneer and here is a Kicker either would fit.

Would it be best to just get a 5 channel amp to drive the sub as well? would you stick with one of the soundstream 5ch amps for bang4buck?

Finally, I wonder if I would still be able to use the HU power to drive the rear speakers or would they no get used in this type of setup?

Thanks for the suggestions btw...big help!

-Murph

i'd do a seperate monoblock amp if all possible. You sacrifice a lot of mid and tweeter power by going 5 channel.

Yes you can use the head unit to power the rear speakers however if your front speakers can be heard several football fields away, i doubt your passengers will have any issues hearing the music loud and clear.

 

[youdoofus]

i'd do a seperate monoblock amp if all possible. You sacrifice a lot of mid and tweeter power by going 5 channel.
Yes you can use the head unit to power the rear speakers however if your front speakers can be heard several football fields away, i doubt your passengers will have any issues hearing the music loud and clear.

i was perusing the first few pages of this and i agree that decks have changed DRASTICALLY! The storage issue is very solvable with the crazy drop in SSD drive prices even flash drives. Ive been rockin a 128 gb stick (albeit only usb 2.0, but music data speed doesnt really req 3.0) for quite a while now and have been pretty happy with it. Havent used a disc in my car in forever

makes me wonder if some of the newer amps would even be able to take some of the insane decks from the school of old. The SQ2200.2 says that input sensitivity goes up to 8 volts. The Clarion DRX-9255 outputs 9 volts

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

i was perusing the first few pages of this and i agree that decks have changed DRASTICALLY! The storage issue is very solvable with the crazy drop in SSD drive prices even flash drives. Ive been rockin a 128 gb stick (albeit only usb 2.0, but music data speed doesnt really req 3.0) for quite a while now and have been pretty happy with it. Havent used a disc in my car in forever
makes me wonder if some of the newer amps would even be able to take some of the insane decks from the school of old. The SQ2200.2 says that input sensitivity goes up to 8 volts. The Clarion DRX-9255 outputs 9 volts

its not a matter of they can take it or not, its more a matter of setting your gains right along with your head unit's signal adjustments. aka sub level, speaker level etc.. Just because its 9 volts doesnt mean you use all 9 volts and clip the living hell out of the signal.

 

[GPcarAudio.com Pro Seller]

I remember back in the day when the real deal single din H/U's had a separate brain that went somewhere else and they were like $2,000

lol

Now you can get more options on a $300 unit

 

[youdoofus]

its not a matter of they can take it or not, its more a matter of setting your gains right along with your head unit's signal adjustments. aka sub level, speaker level etc.. Just because its 9 volts doesnt mean you use all 9 volts and clip the living hell out of the signal.

i realize the voltage output varies with the volume knob of the deck, but i mean if you had the gain on the amp all the way down, the amp says that it can take up to 8 volts. What would happen if you had the deck at such a level where it output its max 9 volts, even if just for a couple seconds? Would it cause damage to the preamp section of the amplifier?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

i realize the voltage output varies with the volume knob of the deck, but i mean if you had the gain on the amp all the way down, the amp says that it can take up to 8 volts. What would happen if you had the deck at such a level where it output its max 9 volts, even if just for a couple seconds? Would it cause damage to the preamp section of the amplifier?

Thats basically the same as cranking the gain forcing the amp to clip. Why would you purposely force the amp to clip? Just to prove the head unit has a strong signal? No thats fking stupid. Same thing as if you install a 9 volt line driver or EQ. The volts is just there as headroom. Not mandatory to use all of it.

Its also just like running Brazilian. I have to have the sub level at negative 12 and gain at zero when running my banda 7k with my 80 prs 5 volt preout. You just need to know the correlation between the head unit signal and the amps gain sensitivity.

 

[youdoofus]

Thats basically the same as cranking the gain forcing the amp to clip. Why would you purposely force the amp to clip? Just to prove the head unit has a strong signal? No thats fking stupid. Same thing as if you install a 9 volt line driver or EQ. The volts is just there as headroom. Not mandatory to use all of it.
Its also just like running Brazilian. I have to have the sub level at negative 12 and gain at zero when running my banda 7k with my 80 prs 5 volt preout. You just need to know the correlation between the head unit signal and the amps gain sensitivity.

im not saying doing it on purpose, i was just curious what would happen physically to the internal componentry.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

im not saying doing it on purpose, i was just curious what would happen physically to the internal componentry.

just produces a distorted or clipped signal just as if you run bass boost on your head unit.

 

[youdoofus]

just produces a distorted or clipped signal just as if you run bass boost on your head unit.

otherwise known as very bad news for something in the line there LoL. gotcha. Thanks

 

[kr15 5,000+ posts]

Alright, so im in the market for a new HU. Ideally id get a prs80, or an alpine 149 or 164... but funds are limited.

Ive narrowed it down to the x6900 and the kenwood x301. Both are around 100$. What say you HU gurus? It looks like the main advantage of 6900 is network mode. The 301 has better output voltage. At this point, i do not see myself running active. (If i was, id shell out the $ for the 80 or 149)