Ma audio ?

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

my bad .only thing i'm trying to say is that all the ma amps i've seen installed ,if you push them ,even just a little ,they went up in smoke or fire

 

[cbuts 10+ year member]

my bad .only thing i'm trying to say is that all the ma amps i've seen installed ,if you push them ,even just a little ,they went up in smoke or fire

oh okay, well thats good to know i guess lol. but if you read you would see that im only powering 4 speakers, so i wont be pushing it.

thanks though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

t's a 2 channel amp though, and it's made for subs. It's just entirely wrong for your application. You should just sell it. You can find plenty quality 4ch amps for right around $100.

Aura RPM4200 RPM Stage 2 Mobile Amplifier 4x50W 269-190

Great amps right there.

 

[Dirtrider4eva 10+ year member]

I run a 300+ watts a channel 2 chan to 3 ways crossovers, so whos hating on that? zed ftw.

 

[cbuts 10+ year member]

t's a 2 channel amp though, and it's made for subs. It's just entirely wrong for your application. You should just sell it. You can find plenty quality 4ch amps for right around $100.Aura RPM4200 RPM Stage 2 Mobile Amplifier 4x50W 269-190

Great amps right there.

now you say its entirely wrong for my application, what exactly does that mean? its meant for subs, but can power speakers too just fine? so how is that a problem, am i gonna fry anything, is anything wrong going to happen, will i be able to use this and power my speakers as loud as they go just as the amp you suggested would do?

this amp is huge, and not really good cosmetically, but im pretty sure it works 100& fine(also how can i tell) i was using it before, but i had to unhook my sound system and wasnt sure what was causing my car to not start, but i replaced my battery ( after purchasing a new system to see if that wsa the problem(wanted a new one anyways) and the battery was the problem, so this amp should still work fine.

thanks

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

It will work, it's just not ideal. It does 400w a channel. Unless you're using it to power a 400w pair of components, or you're running some really big passive mid-bass, it just doesn't make sense. You said it yourself, it's huge and ugly. It will only power 2 speakers, or 2 sets of components. And it will feed too much power to them; unless you turn the gain down almost all the way, which is just a waste. The one I linked will work perfectly, does a little bit more than rated power, is much smaller, of great quality, and at a really good price. There's also many others that would fit the bill, that's just one example.

 

[cbuts 10+ year member]

It will work, it's just not ideal. It does 400w a channel. Unless you're using it to power a 400w pair of components, or you're running some really big passive mid-bass, it just doesn't make sense. You said it yourself, it's huge and ugly. It will only power 2 speakers, or 2 sets of components. And it will feed too much power to them; unless you turn the gain down almost all the way, which is just a waste. The one I linked will work perfectly, does a little bit more than rated power, is much smaller, of great quality, and at a really good price. There's also many others that would fit the bill, that's just one example.

okay thanks, i just need something to work for now, ( if able ).

i run 2 sa 12s, so would rms would i look for around that would be a good match for these?

i would like to use it for now if able to, even if it is big and ugly, im broke atm so if when i upgrade my amp wire i can do this, then i will.

and someone told me my deck can only hold a 2 channel amp? is this true?

can i get some more feedback on the 0guage to reducer and dist block aswell please, thanks.

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

It'll work then, for 2 speakers, just very non optimal. As for an amp for the SA's, I'd find one around 2000w ideal. 1200w at the least, but 2k ideal. I put 1200 to my single SA-10.

As for your headunit, it depends on which one you have? Or if you know, how many pre-outs it has? if you only have 2 pre-outs, that's gonna make things a lot more difficult.

And if it's quality 0 gauge, you can run about 2500w on it. So a single run of 0 gauge from the battery to the amps in the back would suffice. Except run it to a distribution block, and then use a couple feet of 4 gauge to go from the distribution block to each amp.

Here's a few examples of distribution blocks that would work ideally:

Knukonceptz product detail for CLOSE OUT - IXOS GROUND BLOCK 0 GAUGE TO FOUR 4 GAUGE

Digital Distribution System

2 Way Distribution System

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

You can always just cut the cable down until the ammount of copper you have left fits in the #4 hole.

Go ahead and use the amp, keep the gains down, and have reasonable expectations. I'm sure it won't do 400X2 unless it's hit by lightning.

1200-2000W amp would be good for those subs. I'd lean more towards 1200W range unless you want to start getting into potentially expensive electrical upgrades.

I have no idea what kind of pre-amp outs are on your head unit, but most good amps will have through pass for RCA's or you can simply use Y splitters to run as many amps as you like....won't be optimum, but you can make do.

 

[cbuts 10+ year member]

You can always just cut the cable down until the ammount of copper you have left fits in the #4 hole.
Go ahead and use the amp, keep the gains down, and have reasonable expectations. I'm sure it won't do 400X2 unless it's hit by lightning.

1200-2000W amp would be good for those subs. I'd lean more towards 1200W range unless you want to start getting into potentially expensive electrical upgrades.

I have no idea what kind of pre-amp outs are on your head unit, but most good amps will have through pass for RCA's or you can simply use Y splitters to run as many amps as you like....won't be optimum, but you can make do.

thanks, i posted my deck above, and i also stated im runnin a rockford fosgate 1500 1bd, so im not upgrading that amp anytime soon.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

thanks, i posted my deck above, and i also stated im runnin a rockford fosgate 1500 1bd, so im not upgrading that amp anytime soon.

You have 2 sets of pre amp outs on that head unit so running components and sub won't be an issue. That's a solid amp and a good match for those subs....rather borderline where I'd try to add an additional battery though. I bet it likes to draw some current when you get on it.

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

Yea you definitely don't need to change the Amp. and the 1/0 to a distro with 4 gauge will be plenty for it. But you will wanna make sure your voltage is kept steady. Big 3 upgrade is a must. And you might wanna see how it goes from there, depending on your stock alt and bat.

 

[cbuts 10+ year member]

Yea you definitely don't need to change the Amp. and the 1/0 to a distro with 4 gauge will be plenty for it. But you will wanna make sure your voltage is kept steady. Big 3 upgrade is a must. And you might wanna see how it goes from there, depending on your stock alt and bat.

im currently runnin 4g with a agu fuse, which maxes at 100 a, gains at 4ish with 80A fuse atm, and keeps blowing if i turn it up anymore ( and my voltage is staying a bove 12.5 ) , ive ordered 100A fuses off ebay until i get 0g upgrade.

so 0guage > distro > amp is same power as 0guage > amp ?

i was thinking of just running 2 kits?

am i saving money this way or no?

 

[brodeisel 10+ year member]

it would probably be cheaper if you get exactly what you needed. not two kits

 

[cbuts 10+ year member]

it would probably be cheaper if you get exactly what you needed. not two kits

so if im installing another amp for my speakers, the only thing i need to add behind the deck would be the rcas? and i would split the remote in the trunks?

in that case id need about 10 ft 0 guage, a dist block, and some rcas? maybe 2ft of remote?