LOUD, sealed, sq sub

[JoshC 10+ year member]

its an Alpine CDA-105, the sub control is set to 0, bass is at -3, there 2volts

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

JoshC, I just calculated your numbers, and 20 volts is only giving you 400 watts, and that's clipped at that most likely. If your sub tests at 1.5 ohms (dual 2 ohm sub, yea?), then you need 30 volts showing on the DMM to get your target RMS power. Furthermore, if your sub indeed tests at 1.5 ohms in parallel, a 20 volt reading means you're getting 266.66 watts!! I'd grab a new amp...

 

[JoshC 10+ year member]

i havnt checked the final dependance, its a D2 yea. I have a memphis PR1000.1 at amp medics and a memphis MCD1500 at memphis.... i have the worst luck lmfao

Should the sub control on my deck be at 0 or max?

wo wo wo wo wait a sec. If i ran the positive and negative to the first coil, then a wire from each terminal to the other coil, is that in series or parralel? I know positive is suppose to go to one coil, neg to the other coil then branch for 1ohm but i didnt think it would matter

i guess i could just pull the wires off the amp and use the DMM to tell me lol but i dont wanna go out there again till i know what ima do

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

its an Alpine CDA-105, the sub control is set to 0, bass is at -3, there 2volts

Bingo!! DON'T set your sub control to ZERO!! (especially since you have only 2V outputs) It's NOT a bass boost. It's a simple attenuator, meaning, 15 is regular full voltage, and it can simply be turned down from there. I have a CDA-117, and I set my sub control to 12 out of 15 to have a little wiggle room on poorly recorded music. Set the bass EQ to zero, not -3. I bet you'll get 24.5V easy doing the above settings.

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

And, JoshC, check your impedance by simply touching the DMM leads to each sub output on the amp with the system off. Set the DMM to the lowest ohms position. It will read anywhere from 1 ohm to 1.5 ohm. That half ohm will reduce your power by around 25%, and if you don't know that setting the gains, you're gonna clip going for the 600 watts thinking you have a true 1 ohm load.

 

[JoshC 10+ year member]

thanks alot man! had no idea about the sub level on my HU, thought it was a boost too. Was about to say i know many ppl have benched this at at 550-590 @ 2 and atleaste 900 @ 1. Ill go see whats up now and let u know

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

thanks alot man! had no idea about the sub level on my HU, thought it was a boost too. Was about to say i know many ppl have benched this at at 550-590 @ 2 and atleaste 900 @ 1. Ill go see whats up now and let u know

For sure man! I bet you'll be much happier. Turn your amp gain all the way down and start over though, and don't forget to test your impedance. "Dual 2 ohm" voicecoils don't necessarily mean a 1 ohm load.

 

[JoshC 10+ year member]

my meter wont take a reading..... idk im just really ******* pissed at this point. Its jumping from .6-5ohms, i think im just going to break it

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

my meter wont take a reading..... idk im just really ******* pissed at this point. Its jumping from .6-5ohms, i think im just going to break it

Hmmm... System off, right? If your DMM is broke, just set it by ear until you get a new one. You should be able to hear distortion. That P1022 will scream though.

 

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

I have a phoenix gold titanium 15 with only a few hours play time on it. Only requires 1.25c/ft sealed. Very nice sounding speaker and will handle 1000wrms. I have 2 of them in my car, the third one is a different coil config. So I couldn't use it. Let me know if ur interested and ill give u a good price on it.

 

[its_bacon12 10+ year member]

Apex Jr Super 8's

Speaker Stuff

Scroll toward the bottom. You can use 4 of them in 2 cubic feet as the spec sheet says they work in .35 each, sealed. $70/pair, shipping would probably put you towards $200. 1 or 4 ohm final load run series/parallel.

 

[DARKHART 10+ year member]

Dude you DON'T need to buy another sub...In the right box that JBL should be able to do almost anything you want it too....the sq on those drivers are really good, as stated above, re-adjust your settings on your deck, get the proper enclosure and do something about your amp then rock away....you'll be happy and will have saved yourself some cash by not purchasing a new subwoofer for no reason....

 

[Danometal 10+ year member]

Dude you DON'T need to buy another sub...In the right box that JBL should be able to do almost anything you want it too....the sq on those drivers are really good, as stated above, re-adjust your settings on your deck, get the proper enclosure and do something about your amp then rock away....you'll be happy and will have saved yourself some cash by not purchasing a new subwoofer for no reason....

I concur. He has a true SQL sub for the cost. And, they're tanks. I beat the mess outta mine within an inch of its life. I get it stinking and bottoming out 2 to 3 times a week, and it keeps on keeping on like a real trooper. If I blew it, I would sign into my Sonicelectronix account right away, and toss a new JBL in the hole 3 days later.

Edit: The P1022 is actually an 11 inch sub just for fun FYI.

 

[Mitch86 5,000+ posts]

You read the title it says SQ so stop hugging

I dont understand how you'd say it isnt an SQ sub? Supposedly its on up there with the SI Mag in the SQ department and that sub was a major hit for SQL... And its not nut hugging. Im speaking from experience. Recommending a driver from a proven company..Not just rambling out a forum boner.

 

[solidcrowd 10+ year member]

I have a 12" Mag...Deff gets louddd and hits every note. I love it, and I loved my Icon. Next up for me to try is Obsidian and SA-12.