LOUD, sealed, sq sub

IA Flatlyne could be a contender for a flat curve and respectable output. There are some used ones for that price range around this forum.

May as well consider the Dayton HO as well, though it favors tiny ported enclosures.

 
Boston Acoustics G5 series but they are discontinued and hard to find

Boston Acoustics spg555

Both subs have excellent sq, the g5's will handle almost 1krms and the spg will do about 1200-1300. I have heard both sealed and the g5s ported and they have as good of sq as any JL product. BA products overlooked by most people and they are pretty under rated for power handling.

Both subs will play into the upper 130db's with ease, you can break 140 with a good install.

 
I agree that $200 is kind of tight. Here what I recommend..

Option one: Soniceletronix sells Image Dynamics IDQ12V3 subwoofers for around $250. In SQ department, they are among the best at any price, but for their price they're probably a value leader. Try to make sonic an offer of $200 for the 12 sub, see if they accept it. The sub is optimized for an average sealed box (e.g. 1 to 1.3 cu ft). Xmax is somewhere in the neighborhood of 16-18mm and the power handing is around 500-700watts RMS, which is good enough to produce loud bass, at least in a midsize car.

Option Two: Get one Infinity Kappa 120.9w. This is infinity's top subwoofer. From my experience, it sounds very nice and clean with better than average upper end extension, and low inductance. Unfortunately, I haven't had a chance to compare it to IDQV3. It's been said to compare favorably to IDQV2. xmax is 17mm. Power handing is "only" 350watts RMS, though it nowhere near reaching its xmax at this wattage. Optimal sealed box size is around 1.3 cu ft. It can be picked up for $150 or less shipped. The cool thing is that it has 2ohm/4ohm impedance switch. Should you want to add a second sub, you can flip the impedance and add a second sub to the same amplifier without affecting the final impedance load.

I would be leaning towards the option one. ID IDQV3 subs have tremendous reputation in SQ department. They had reportedly done well in car SQ competitions.

 
I was asking because, looking back over your post, it seemed as though you liked that box, but it somehow didn't kosher with a new amp. I was curious about that. Maybe you could unload your Audiopipe, and keep the sub and build like a 1.75 cubes box @ 27 hz or some such. Seriously, why didn't the AP amp cut the mustard?

 
lol theres a builder here in town that does it. 125 for the box, plus the cost of vinyl, hes pretty good i think

What do u mean AP amp cut the mustard? The 2cu @ 27Hz box was to much for me. The lows almost pushed me outa my seat but anything higher then 40Hz ****** ***. Running coaxials off my deck so i dont have midbass, wanted a fuller sound

 
80-90 sounded good to me, its a lil higher atm but i still cant get my gain right. Suppose to be 24.5volts for like 600rms @ 1 ohm, but it dosnt even hit 20volts with gain at max. The volume level is at maximum listening volume, should i turn the volume up higher then i usually do or what????

 
80-90 sounded good to me, its a lil higher atm but i still cant get my gain right. Suppose to be 24.5volts for like 600rms @ 1 ohm, but it dosnt even hit 20volts with gain at max. The volume level is at maximum listening volume, should i turn the volume up higher then i usually do or what????
Not sure about your sub, but mine tests out at 2.5 ohms ran in parallel. Not sure what's up with that, but I had to factor that into my calculations to set the gains with the DMM. Assuming you tested your sub's final impedance, and you still can't get 24.5 volts, I'm thinking it's time to unload that amp, as your clipping it hardcore and not even getting your target RMS power. It must be extremely overrated or something (I'm pretty sure Audiopipe isn't CEA-2006 certified to make 600 cleam watts RMS). Or, it could be your HU not putting out a high enough signal? Does it put out 4 volts? 2 volts? If you have a sub control, is it all the way up?

 
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