No, it's not a trick question or an attempt to stroke ego. I was simply attempting to provide you an example to refute your buddy's rule of thumb. It is absolutely ridiculous to say one shouldn't spend more on an amp than what was spent on subs. That line of logic automatically states more expensive sub A is going to outperform less costly sub B. That is simply not fact and truth. My apologies that my comparison example didn't come across as I intended.
Lets use the 2 amps from my previous post each connected to 2 M5A MAW10 subs. Which amp would likely be a safer choice for providing good clean power? Not sure about you, but my money's on the Memphis amp. Not saying you have to spend $400+ on an amp to get a good one, just be careful about what you buy at a given price point (although I'm sure this already struck you as common sense knowledge a long time ago). Know what you are buying and how it will perform in an actual real world environment.
And something else I'm sure you know but I'm going to repeat for the benefit of anyone reading this: There are 2 things that can make or break how a sub performs (up to it's physical potential and limitations, that is): 1. the quality of the signal it gets and 2. the enclosure it's installed in. You cheap out on either (metaphorically speaking) and you might as well flush your system down the toilet. Because what normally is parked on a toilet is what the system is going to sound like. The two cheaper subs on an amp known for it's SQ will be a better choice for SQ than the two more expensive subs on a crap amp. Both subs are good choices and very capable drivers, but it's going to depend on how they're installed and how they're powered.
Sorry if I came across as trying to snipe a forum noob in my earlier post - that was simply not the case. I've said it before and I'll say it again...we are all noobs at one point; we learn by asking. I was simply trying to help with what you were asking.
hey wassup steven...
yeah i'm the buddy and its my fault for not explaining things more clear to him...when i said spend about the same amount for the amp as what you spend on the subs and vice versa, i didn't mean on just one sub, i meant add up the subs and since you spent $120 shipped on each of them, that totals $240, regular price is $140 shipped = $280, so if you were to want to buy a new single amp for the two subs, i'd spend no more than $240-$280...
cus you don't want to have say 8 TC1000's @ $120 each and only spend $120 on a new amp for all of them...i wouldn't spend more then $960 on the amps...etc...
there is a difference between SQ, SQL, and SPL...my rule of thumb works more with SQL and SPL and not so much with PURE SQ...with pure SQ, you don't care about XMAX or hitting 150db's, you care more about the quality which means you may have some much cheaper subs like image dynamics idq's or M5A's powered by a extremely expensive clean amp such as a zapco, dls, or whatever...but still, i think its stupid to spend $1000 on a amp to power a pair of $50 subs when you could have spent say $150 on each sub and $800 on the amp and make the ratio not so far away and most likely get better performance...
not only that, but my guess is that 10% or less people in car audio goes for this pure sq stuff anyways, and probably have a ton of deadning as well as some good knowlege is highly unlikely going to be spending $50 on a pair of subs and $1000 on an amp...
i'd guess the majority of people on here go for SQL, and small percentage goes for pure SPL...with SQL or SPL, i think my rule of thumb works fine, its still a rule of thumb and doesn't mean you have to have it 50/50...for example, spend $700 on a pair of TC3K's with a $700 Kicker KX2500.1 will probably sound better and be louder then two TC LMS-5400 and a $100 4000 watt boss amp that probably puts out 500wrms or less...or the TC3K/kicker vs $1400 RF T40001BD and two $100, 3000 watt pyle super subwoofers junk...
ofcourse it depends on the install and power...in this hobby, it is very forgiving unless you are a complete tool...like tuning your BTL to 200hz or forgetting your polarities...and unless you're competing for SQ or SPL, theres not going to be too much of a noticeable difference between a $300 amp that does 1500rms and a $400 amp that does 1500wrms...
if its too hard to imagine for you guys, imagine a guy that has $4000 20" chrome rims and a $6000 system on his $1000 value car, does that make much sense? didn't think so...alright, enough with my rant...
don't forget, i still got my MTX 801D for $120
i'm sure many people can vouch for this amp and this deal...
otherwise i can find you some more deals on 2 ohms stable amps with 600-800 total power for ya...