Hello guys. I wanted to run some questions by a knowledgeable crowd concerning subwoofer selection for a new vehicle. My previous vehicle had a bit of a problem with a water leak after a minor rear-end accident that destroyed my last sub amp, and subwoofer. My front stage amp was left intact, but in the process of building a system for my new car I decided to go with a four channel amp to allow me to bi-amp and properly time-align the front stage, given that kick panel midbase location is not really practical in this vehicle. I will use my old front stage amp to run a sub.
So, here's the deal. The car is a 2000 BMW 540i, the system design goals are strictly sq, and I am not ok with sacrificing much trunk space because I know good sound can be achieved without the sacrifice. The amp in question is an old school US Amps TU-600, which presents a unique difficulty in that it is not bridgeable, therefore I need either a dual voice coil driver, or two of them. To cut off any questions about why I would use an inefficient tube amp to power a sub, the answer is simple. I have never seen a sub with more iron-fisted control over a reactive load in my life. The thing flat out anhillated the McIntosh MC-440 that it replaced, in the same system, despite supposedly giving up over a hundred watts in power. I originally made the switch due to concerns that the MAC would overheat in the tight space it was allocated, due to it's monstrous size, and was stunned when instead of giving away something, I was gaining a LOT. Transient response is amazing with this amp. So, I found a 4 channel version, the TU-4360, used to take over the front stage //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Because I am not willing to sacrifice much trunk space, and especially usability, things like a JLW7 are out. It's simply too deep, means any box needs to be almost square which makes them difficult to work around. The fact that they are single voice coil and I would need two of them also makes their cost a little off-putting.
So, what is the best pure sq DVC sub out there? or does anyone have a suggestion for dual 8s or 10s that would be easy to tuck away in a corner of the trunk?
So, here's the deal. The car is a 2000 BMW 540i, the system design goals are strictly sq, and I am not ok with sacrificing much trunk space because I know good sound can be achieved without the sacrifice. The amp in question is an old school US Amps TU-600, which presents a unique difficulty in that it is not bridgeable, therefore I need either a dual voice coil driver, or two of them. To cut off any questions about why I would use an inefficient tube amp to power a sub, the answer is simple. I have never seen a sub with more iron-fisted control over a reactive load in my life. The thing flat out anhillated the McIntosh MC-440 that it replaced, in the same system, despite supposedly giving up over a hundred watts in power. I originally made the switch due to concerns that the MAC would overheat in the tight space it was allocated, due to it's monstrous size, and was stunned when instead of giving away something, I was gaining a LOT. Transient response is amazing with this amp. So, I found a 4 channel version, the TU-4360, used to take over the front stage //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Because I am not willing to sacrifice much trunk space, and especially usability, things like a JLW7 are out. It's simply too deep, means any box needs to be almost square which makes them difficult to work around. The fact that they are single voice coil and I would need two of them also makes their cost a little off-putting.
So, what is the best pure sq DVC sub out there? or does anyone have a suggestion for dual 8s or 10s that would be easy to tuck away in a corner of the trunk?
