Looking for help in choosing/purchasing a new system

[Jaxsz]

I've been doing my best to research this stuff for a while now - I try not to be that annoying guy that shows up and just asks for everyone else to do the work for him, but car audio is so complex that I'm getting a little overwhelmed //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Any assistance would be greatly appreciated - sorry if this is a bit long, haha.

My budget is around $1000-$2000, depending on whether or not I go with a new head unit.

I'm installing this into a new 2011 Dodge Challenger R/T with the completely base audio system - it has two tweeters (3.5") on the dash, two 6x9s in the doors, and two 6x9s in the rears.

One of my big debates is the head unit - should I remove the stock double din and replace it with a full DVD/nav screen, or just keep it and go with a sound processor? If I go the processor route, should I be looking at a JBL, the Fosgate 3sixty, or is it worth it to go big on the MS-8? A screen would be nice, and if a good screen can be had for a price that is similar to a sound processor while also providing that high sound quality, I feel like it would make more sense to just do that?

Discussing this with some of my audio buddies, they believe just disconnecting the rears and going with the doors and tweeters would be best. In this case, I was looking at some Focal comps for the doors, but since my doors are 6x9, would 6.5" speakers still fit, or am I forced into buying 6x9s? I was debating the Focal vs Hybrid Audio Unity vs maybe something from Image Dynamics, hard for me to say which I'd prefer there.

I think I'd like to go with one quality 12" sub that can hit hard while also providing nice sound quality - I know the box and install are the big things here, so I would also like advice on that? Get a local installer to build one, or find someone on this forum to design/build it?

Where I'm really lost is when it comes to the amplifiers, impedance ratings/crossovers/passive vs active, etc. I really haven't been able to make any progress on figuring out/deciding what amplifiers I would need for powering a good 12" sub and all of those speakers, this is one of the areas I'd really like the assistance in.

And if anyone is in the San Diego area (or socal in general) and is good at installing this stuff or knows a good shop I can go to for installation, I'd be much appreciative! And if you know your stuff I'd love to pay for a good install since I know a shop is looking to rip me off. The shops I went into for this were recommending a whole range of expensive low-range speakers and subs and are just a pain to deal with

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[Jaxsz]

Also, my battery is in my trunk if that helps. I obviously haven't handled the "big 3" and was planning on doing that during the install.

Tried putting a picture of my stock head unit in here but I can't because I'm a new poster //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[4thclasspower]

sundown makes good product, amps and subwoofers. Also audio que with good subs and amps(made in the same house as digital designs). DC audio are great for both and obsidian audio is new with a previous sub owner of sundown audio. All these listed have great price points and are socially accepted by the hard core car audio enthusiast.

if you decided on your subwoofer already, here are some good amp brands.

Orion hcca, audison, arc audio, mtx, us amps, phoenix gold... these amps are normally a bit underrated.

 

[BnGRacing 10+ year member]

sundown makes good product, amps and subwoofers. Also audio que with good subs and amps(made in the same house as digital designs). DC audio are great for both and obsidian audio is new with a previous sub owner of sundown audio. All these listed have great price points and are socially accepted by the hard core car audio enthusiast.

Because there's nothing more important than being socially accepted on a public internet forum.

OP: go to diymobileaudio.com and browse around a bit on DSP's, factory integration, and good equipment. A lot of people here have drank the marketing Kool Aid and will parrot about "the big 3" and sound deadening instead of actually giving you technical advice on why one amp is better than another, why one sub will work better than another, etc. Here, people care too much about 'the brand' instead of what suits their vehicle the best.

 

[Jaxsz]

So would 6.5" components fit where my 6x9s are in the doors, and are they really that much better (or better at all) than a nice 6x9 set of speakers? Any advice on exactly which amps I would need to power, say, two 3.5" tweeters + two 6.5" Hybrid Audio Unity components + a dayton HF 12" sub?

 

[slvrado28z 10+ year member]

you could make or buy adapters to make 6.5 work i think its worth it, and why not just get one 5 ch to power the speakers/sub

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

There are also 6x9 components also that the tweet can be placed in the stock location, and the mid/bass in the stock location as well.Something to consider.I really think a 6x9 will possibly sound a bit better giving that you find a quality set, with good rms range, and hertz.That way no modification or brackets needed.as for the sub, Pick and choose, several options,12s, and even a great # of good quality 10s as well.Depending on your budget, you may find what you are looking for quality wise, with the rms value, and ohms load/Htz.I always recommend removing the stock HU, as it is generally a pain alot of times to add aftermarket units, ect.Several amps out there, and my favorites are some old school Zed amps for powerhouses at 2ohms for the subs, like the Autotek mean machines, bts series, and Hifonics VII,VIII series amps, as well, as the old school alpine duo-b amps for front stage, and rear fill,SoundStreams new Lil Wonders for staging are compact, and deliver power, and seem to fit the bill for the money spent, as well as the Rubicons for sub staging, built like tanks,and serve well.Id at the minimum get at a 2ohm load for the subwoofer, and 4-2ohms for the mids and highs.Alot of people say not to worry about hooking the rear speakers up, but I think differently about that, as you can lower the gains a bit not to over run the front staging, and seems to give you that surround/missing fill for the staging.I always run 2 amps minimum,for staging ,and subwoofer. CDT are good quality speakers also,sub woofer, Id find a minimum of a 600rms to retrieve any kind of good quality bass being stationed in the trunk space.Easy supplying to amps, and add ons for the battery location,yet do consider the quick draw of the source that the alternator will not have time to recharge quick enough as to my opinion, a second battery would be my recommendation.

 

[Jaxsz]

So currently I'm looking at something like this - let me know if any of these components don't work together / don't make sense / aren't as good as they should be for the price being paid, or just in general if anyone believes something else would be a better idea. Any advice is great.

DSP - JL Cleansweep CL441DSP (is a 3sixty better here?)

Amps - Precision Power P900.4 and P600.2

Speakers - HAT Unity 6.5" - would this involve putting the 6.5" woofer into my doors and the tweeters up in the dash? Or would both be mounted into the door somehow? Or should I look into going with a 6x9 instead, like the HAT Imagine 6x9s?

Sub - This is one of the things I'm not sure on, would a dual 4 ohm make the most sense? ID IDQ12 D4? MTX T812-44? JL W3, RE Audio SEX12D4, or an Alpine SWR? Would the above P600.2 amp be able to power any of these well enough, or do I need to go bigger on the amp?

Then on knukonceptz they have a complete 4 gauge amp installation kit, figured I'd grab that also - what else am I missing then besides the box being built for the sub? If I ordered everything here, would I be well on me way to getting something pretty decent set up?

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

So currently I'm looking at something like this - let me know if any of these components don't work together / don't make sense / aren't as good as they should be for the price being paid, or just in general if anyone believes something else would be a better idea. Any advice is great.
DSP - JL Cleansweep CL441DSP (is a 3sixty better here?)

Amps - Precision Power P900.4 and P600.2

Speakers - HAT Unity 6.5" - would this involve putting the 6.5" woofer into my doors and the tweeters up in the dash? Or would both be mounted into the door somehow? Or should I look into going with a 6x9 instead, like the HAT Imagine 6x9s?

Sub - This is one of the things I'm not sure on, would a dual 4 ohm make the most sense? ID IDQ12 D4? MTX T812-44? JL W3, RE Audio SEX12D4, or an Alpine SWR? Would the above P600.2 amp be able to power any of these well enough, or do I need to go bigger on the amp?

Then on knukonceptz they have a complete 4 gauge amp installation kit, figured I'd grab that also - what else am I missing then besides the box being built for the sub? If I ordered everything here, would I be well on me way to getting something pretty decent set up?

the 360 is better than the cleansweep in that it has a lot more options on eq points plus time alignment but the newest version isnt out yet and isnt expected for a few months

the amps u have chosen should work fine as far as a sub pick a d2 so u can wire it to 4 ohms and bridge the amp or a pair of d4 so u can do the same i like the idq12 personally

the speakers well here's the kicker finding a 6x9 component set can be a challenge but some companies like image dynamics do make them. i personally liketo run 6.5s but its really up to personal choice as you can achieve the same response with either size. i like the I.D. 6x9 sets and thats what i would pick for this application though they might be a little in the expensive side depending on what you want to spend. i like my tweeters high i never had them in the dash but in the front pillars never really had a problem putting them here.

a 4guage kit will work fine just run two individual lines from the batt ground at the batt as well. i do recommend taking a look at the factory line coming from the front of the car and upgrading it to1/0guage when possible.

sound deadener on the front doors, front floor boards and headliner can make a world of difference bloking unwanted out side noise as well as keeping more of your sound inside. sealing the doors off best you can will generally allow the midbass speaker to dig deeper in the frequency range

 

[Jaxsz]

I'm thinking I may go for a Pioneer P4300DVD head unit instead of a sound processor - does anyone know what I'll need to actually install this? Do I need some adapters to connect it? It is selling for around 350 on ebay but Crutchfield has it for 500 and says it comes with all this stuff I supposedly need to install it but I'm not completely sure what that is or if it makes more sense to just buy it from them

 

[Jaxsz]

Update: I have purchased the following items:

HU- Pioneer 4300DVD

Speakers - HAT Imagine 6x9

Amps: MB Quart 1500D, JL 450/4

Sub- IDQ12D2

What else should I grab if I want to install this myself? I know I need to find a harness or something for the HU I think, but what about cabling and everything? Is 4 gauge good enough? I was told I might need 2 gauge

also anyone good at building/designing boxes in the San Diego area?

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

4gaugewill be fine since it is short runs, and crutchfield normally gives you the dash kit and wiring harness unless it is a high dollar piece. a good 12ft of 4 gauge couple of fuse holders and a 4channle and 2 channel rca add a 18gauge primary remote wire and your set.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

0 gauge wire [amp kit] also need to check if you need a dash kit,and if you want to put the tweets in the dash you will have to make some kind of adapter,or you can buy some 3.5 bullet tweets and put the components tweets in the doors by the mids

 

[Jaxsz]

I grabbed the dash kit and the PAC harness already - the head unit was about 150 dollars cheaper on Amazon than on Crutchfield, and the only pieces Crutchfield would include were about 30 dollars worth of stuff, they were making me pay for the harness. The harness alone was 75 dollars, apparently it's some ridiculous computer junk due to the new vehicles.

My buddy used to be big in car audio and installing a lot of systems in his truck but hasn't been in it for a good 5+ years so we're going to give it a go, hopefully the majority of the stuff with installing is still the same and it won't be too hard.