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<blockquote data-quote="audiobaun" data-source="post: 7583004" data-attributes="member: 634282"><p>There are also 6x9 components also that the tweet can be placed in the stock location, and the mid/bass in the stock location as well.Something to consider.I really think a 6x9 will possibly sound a bit better giving that you find a quality set, with good rms range, and hertz.That way no modification or brackets needed.as for the sub, Pick and choose, several options,12s, and even a great # of good quality 10s as well.Depending on your budget, you may find what you are looking for quality wise, with the rms value, and ohms load/Htz.I always recommend removing the stock HU, as it is generally a pain alot of times to add aftermarket units, ect.Several amps out there, and my favorites are some old school Zed amps for powerhouses at 2ohms for the subs, like the Autotek mean machines, bts series, and Hifonics VII,VIII series amps, as well, as the old school alpine duo-b amps for front stage, and rear fill,SoundStreams new Lil Wonders for staging are compact, and deliver power, and seem to fit the bill for the money spent, as well as the Rubicons for sub staging, built like tanks,and serve well.Id at the minimum get at a 2ohm load for the subwoofer, and 4-2ohms for the mids and highs.Alot of people say not to worry about hooking the rear speakers up, but I think differently about that, as you can lower the gains a bit not to over run the front staging, and seems to give you that surround/missing fill for the staging.I always run 2 amps minimum,for staging ,and subwoofer. CDT are good quality speakers also,sub woofer, Id find a minimum of a 600rms to retrieve any kind of good quality bass being stationed in the trunk space.Easy supplying to amps, and add ons for the battery location,yet do consider the quick draw of the source that the alternator will not have time to recharge quick enough as to my opinion, a second battery would be my recommendation.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="audiobaun, post: 7583004, member: 634282"] There are also 6x9 components also that the tweet can be placed in the stock location, and the mid/bass in the stock location as well.Something to consider.I really think a 6x9 will possibly sound a bit better giving that you find a quality set, with good rms range, and hertz.That way no modification or brackets needed.as for the sub, Pick and choose, several options,12s, and even a great # of good quality 10s as well.Depending on your budget, you may find what you are looking for quality wise, with the rms value, and ohms load/Htz.I always recommend removing the stock HU, as it is generally a pain alot of times to add aftermarket units, ect.Several amps out there, and my favorites are some old school Zed amps for powerhouses at 2ohms for the subs, like the Autotek mean machines, bts series, and Hifonics VII,VIII series amps, as well, as the old school alpine duo-b amps for front stage, and rear fill,SoundStreams new Lil Wonders for staging are compact, and deliver power, and seem to fit the bill for the money spent, as well as the Rubicons for sub staging, built like tanks,and serve well.Id at the minimum get at a 2ohm load for the subwoofer, and 4-2ohms for the mids and highs.Alot of people say not to worry about hooking the rear speakers up, but I think differently about that, as you can lower the gains a bit not to over run the front staging, and seems to give you that surround/missing fill for the staging.I always run 2 amps minimum,for staging ,and subwoofer. CDT are good quality speakers also,sub woofer, Id find a minimum of a 600rms to retrieve any kind of good quality bass being stationed in the trunk space.Easy supplying to amps, and add ons for the battery location,yet do consider the quick draw of the source that the alternator will not have time to recharge quick enough as to my opinion, a second battery would be my recommendation. [/QUOTE]
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