LOC or Line Driver

[07BronzeFuz 10+ year member]

Guys I'm planning on using my factory nav/hu ( sony with SYNC) in my ford. I'll be getting a 5 channel amp to push the kickers in the doors and the 2 10's under the rear seat. I know I can get a basic LOC from PAC but I've been reading about the factory roll off on bass response. Is it worth it to invest in something like a LCi2 or a Lci6 or even a MTX req 5? trying to weight the pro's and con's. Thanks

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[Side Show 10+ year member]

if your after quality sound, i'd suggest you change your headunit from a factory one to a decent aftermarket unit, such as pioneer alpine eclipse ect. line out converters are the cheapest easiest way to change your sound system but also IMO sounds the worst and give you the least amount of adjustments

 

[07BronzeFuz 10+ year member]

I agree but I'm non negotiable on replacing the Hu. So what's the best option. ?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

A line driver boosts rca voltage, a line out converter attenuates it.

Also, a line driver can buffer the signal, that is isolate and make it more robust for transmission.

A line out out converter can also convert the signal from speaker level/balanced to unbalanced so that it is compatible with the next device in line.

just grab the stuff from audio control or rockford, I'm 100% sure they have an all in one where you have LOC, Line Drivers, Crossovers all in one.

 

[07BronzeFuz 10+ year member]

I agree I was thinking audio control never had one but normally I run a alpine Hu . Just looking to clean up the signal, and correct that factory roll off

 

[Jepalan]

If you don't want to pay AudioControl prices and you want better control over your install, consider this. EQ plus speaker level inputs (maybe, not sure on this) plus line driver RCA outs...

Autotek AT-7007 4-Channel Graphic Equalizer and Line Driver

Still one of my favorite options for moderately priced factory upgrades.

You only have to connect two channels, it splits out signal for your rears and sub, has optional LP & HP xover, and will sum the sub signal to mono. AND you have control over bass levels.

 

[07BronzeFuz 10+ year member]

I like that idea just need something to mount in the back not at dash. But you have me thinking now

 

[jrdnhsnbrg 10+ year member]

Why not look for an amp with speaker level inputs?

 

[fasfocus00 5,000+ posts]

if your speakers are not actively crossed via factory amp than I'd go with a Kicker KQ9 or Audiocontrol Three.1 or 2. if they are actively crossed, i'd use the LC6i into Four.1. i'll tell you what I did in my car. I used an Audiocontrol LC6i, tapped front tweeters front mids and factory sub. used the full signal out into a Kicker KQ9 back into an Audiocontrol 6XS into a 4ch 2ch and mono.

 

[d77543020 10+ year member]

do it right the first time find yourself a nice processor a Rockford 360 or 360 point2 won't be that expensive or just go with the audio control also the JL Audio cleansweep isn't terrible

 

[07BronzeFuz 10+ year member]

do it right the first time find yourself a nice processor a Rockford 360 or 360 point2 won't be that expensive or just go with the audio control also the JL Audio cleansweep isn't terrible

'

i agree but really not looking to put that much in it or I would just replace the HU. I love the 8" factory one with sync. maybe the audiocontrol is the better way to go.

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

You're not going to correct factory bass rolloff easily..

 

[07BronzeFuz 10+ year member]

correct me if I'm wrong But i thought the audio control was suppose to do that over a conventional PAC LOC?

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

You can't create signal from nothing. If the lower frequencies are already filtered out you're SOL. It may be able to amplify them if they're present just very weak but I would have doubts about the sound quality. The LC6i can sum together multiple channels to make up for internal filtering but no channel will have those lower frequencies present unless you have a factory sub. Even then I find they still cross them too high...

 

[07BronzeFuz 10+ year member]

if your speakers are not actively crossed via factory amp than I'd go with a Kicker KQ9 or Audiocontrol Three.1 or 2. if they are actively crossed, i'd use the LC6i into Four.1. i'll tell you what I did in my car. I used an Audiocontrol LC6i, tapped front tweeters front mids and factory sub. used the full signal out into a Kicker KQ9 back into an Audiocontrol 6XS into a 4ch 2ch and mono.

my factory tweeters should be actively crossed. I don't know about the fronts/rear/center channel. I do have a factory subwoofer so I WOULD ASSUME they are? What what do I need to get in that case. I am going to amp the speakers. But then what do I do about the center channel? Maybe I should just go with a 2 channel amp for subs. But they are just not loud IMO. THIS is beginning to be a pain lol

 

---------- Post added at 04:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:02 PM ----------

 

You can't create signal from nothing. If the lower frequencies are already filtered out you're SOL. It may be able to amplify them if they're present just very weak but I would have doubts about the sound quality. The LC6i can sum together multiple channels to make up for internal filtering but no channel will have those lower frequencies present unless you have a factory sub. Even then I find they still cross them too high...

what if I tap into the low levels from the subwoofer already in there into a audio control?