lithium

Well then, guess I missed something, could of sworn I did them due diligence. What spec's (regarding charge and discharge rates) are you refering to as inqdequate? I could have ovcerlooked a spec. or two...

The highest recharge rate for any of them is 60 amps.
The highest discharge rate is 200 amps.
 
i have a 400 amp alt
It is unlikely that your alternator will make 400A outside of a test bench scenario, but it wouldn't hurt you to size based on the assumption that it might be able to do that for a very short period of time.

That said, I've got a couple lithium banks I've built up this year I could sell you locally and loose cells if you want to buy/build your own bus bars. Hit me up if you need anything.
 
The highest recharge rate for any of them is 60 amps.
The highest discharge rate is 200 amps.
okay, but not everyone will necessarily 'have' to charge at higher rate if it's enough to meet your daily power needs, it just takes longer, as it is a bigger bucket to fill. You'll likely get more life out of the batteries by charging more conservatively too. In a properly paralleled battery bank the charge & discharge capacity is shared across the packs within the bank. IF each battery pack is identical (BMS, Cells, Config & Cell Quality) then the entire process is usually pretty flat across the packs. They will vary a slight bit but will always level up with each other (does not mean cell balanced). For my SQ systems where I rarely pull more than a 50A draw, that is fine. I can see where in sustained high draw SPL, competion systems where that could be an issue so I get it. I forget that I'm dealing with some bat-$hit crazy system draws for some of thes setups; I should have quantified that. Thanks for the info.
 
okay, but not everyone will necessarily 'have' to charge at higher rate if it's enough to meet your daily power needs, it just takes longer, as it is a bigger bucket to fill. You'll likely get more life out of the batteries by charging more conservatively too. In a properly paralleled battery bank the charge & discharge capacity is shared across the packs within the bank. IF each battery pack is identical (BMS, Cells, Config & Cell Quality) then the entire process is usually pretty flat across the packs. They will vary a slight bit but will always level up with each other (does not mean cell balanced). For my SQ systems where I rarely pull more than a 50A draw, that is fine. I can see where in sustained high draw SPL, competion systems where that could be an issue so I get it. I forget that I'm dealing with some bat-$hit crazy system draws for some of thes setups; I should have quantified that. Thanks for the info.
The whole point of running lithium over agm is the charge/discharge rate...otherwise it's cheaper to run agm
 
okay, but not everyone will necessarily 'have' to charge at higher rate if it's enough to meet your daily power needs, it just takes longer, as it is a bigger bucket to fill. You'll likely get more life out of the batteries by charging more conservatively too. In a properly paralleled battery bank the charge & discharge capacity is shared across the packs within the bank. IF each battery pack is identical (BMS, Cells, Config & Cell Quality) then the entire process is usually pretty flat across the packs. They will vary a slight bit but will always level up with each other (does not mean cell balanced). For my SQ systems where I rarely pull more than a 50A draw, that is fine. I can see where in sustained high draw SPL, competion systems where that could be an issue so I get it. I forget that I'm dealing with some bat-$hit crazy system draws for some of thes setups; I should have quantified that. Thanks for the info.

A 60 amp charge rate would mean your alternator could not supply more than 60 amps or it could cause that lithium battery to vent. I don't know of any alternators under 60 amps or a car that doesn't take 200 amps to start.
 
A 60 amp charge rate would mean your alternator could not supply more than 60 amps or it could cause that lithium battery to vent. I don't know of any alternators under 60 amps or a car that doesn't take 200 amps to start.
I was thinking in terms of a 2nd battery only. In my setup I actually did this with an XS D4800 up front to a 250A isolater and one of these (V2, slim) in the back, seems to be fine. Was experimenting, used it instead of the two 3 farad caps and the one 5 farad hybrid stinger cap, takes up a lot less room and is working great. I've never measured anything over a 47AMP draw at substntialy high volume levels. Not thinking in this aplication there should be any issue. But maybe I am missing something.
 
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Using my gorilla math I ran a 2500 watt amp off of a 60amp fuse for 2 years. So I believe you when you say you haven't seen high current numbers.
I've never put a current meter on my equipment but I'm guessing it's generally low.
 
Using my gorilla math I ran a 2500 watt amp off of a 60amp fuse for 2 years. So I believe you when you say you haven't seen high current numbers.
I've never put a current meter on my equipment but I'm guessing it's generally low.
Truth be told, only a few people that put together large (as in my case, 2000-3000) wattage systems are pulling the numbers that they THINK they will, that justify huge upgrades in the electrical; theoretical is not reality for most. That said, the big three is always a good start but even with the potential draw I COULD see, don’t see the need to install the 250Amp that I have sitting in the wings for the “just in case” scenario. It’s never a bad investment though and I’m sure I will put in at some point, just because I don’t want to keep hearing about it! And as is the case, there’s always that Db drag race at the intersection that one has to be ready for! If I was doing SPL, running everything at 1ohm, sitting around playing for hours at a time, definately.

In the daily driver I have two FOCAL 2300rx’s and a DS18 EXL2500.1 (running all of them at 4ohms) and even at VERY loud volumes never have pulled more than 47amps. And seriously, it’s really loud! If you are drawing current that you can see dim your lights or causing your amp to shut down, that’s usually a pretty good sign that you need to upgrade something. People going to flip me **** for downplaying the need but hey, I say it all the time, opinions are like a$$holes, everyone’s got one!
 
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