Lights STILL dmming....help

[jailhouseracer8 10+ year member]

I have a 1999 chevy surbaban. I just installed a bunch of stuff. Installed an Iraggi 220 amp alternator, 2, brand new yellow top optimas, a treo 1500.1(3200@1ohm), pushing 2, 18" Fi BL's. I have 1/0 big 3, 1/0 power, ground.....etc. My amp is grounded to the frame, have a good chassi-engine ground......would my lights still dim? or should they? Is this amp just that much of a hog, or am i missing something....any input would be very much appreciated! thanks, Ed

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[JL boy3]

if they still dim try getting a capacitor

 

[bones22 5,000+ posts]

if they still dim try getting a capacitor

do not do this!!!!

check all your connections again

 

[jailhouseracer8 10+ year member]

Not getting a cap...they are worthless, Bones22, i have checked everything over, and all the connections look good. Was wondering if each battery to the frame would help?

 

[Techchild 10+ year member]

I heard at the shop you need something like a switch inverter thing to separate the rear batterys from the front battery so you whont get any dimming on the lights.

I don't know the excat name of it thoe.

 

[jdawg 5,000+ posts]

should should have grounded you batteries to you frame already, sounds like a weak ground to me

 

[jdawg 5,000+ posts]

I heard at the shop you need something like a switch inverter thing to separate the rear batterys from the front battery so you whont get any dimming on the lights.I don't know the excat name of it thoe.

you are talking about an isolator, they are pretty much useless imo, with a 220amp alt he should have no problem chargin more than one battery

 

[edzy 10+ year member]

Yes, reground the batts to the chassis. Something I just came across, is using a cap on the headlight wireing only. This involves using diodes and relay to set it up, but has helped when all else has failed. Its In the April CA&E Mag. Interesting twist on a cap use.

 

[jdawg 5,000+ posts]

Yes, reground the batts to the chassis. Something I just came across, is using a cap on the headlight wireing only. This involves using diodes and relay to set it up, but has helped when all else has failed. Its In the April CA&E Mag. Interesting twist on a cap use.

sounds like shit, just rewire your headlights using bigger wire and relays, ca&e has been a marketing tool for some years now, they have to make money somehow now because of the invention of the internet. You dont have to wait a month to pay 3.95 or whatever for their shitty magazine

 

[casper97ta 10+ year member]

should should have grounded you batteries to you frame already, sounds like a weak ground to me

X2. I run a Treo 1500.1 also and I have my NSB100ft grounded to the frame and the amp grounded right to the NSB. I would try that first. You shouldnt be getting any dimming with a HO alt and extra bats.

 

[jerryrobinson 10+ year member]

get rid of the yellow tops and get 2- kinetik 1800s batterys. 1- kinetik battery did the job in my wifes car and it was teir smallest model

 

[ultimate157 5,000+ posts]

get rid of the yellow tops and get 2- kinetik 1800s batterys. 1- kinetik battery did the job in my wifes car and it was teir smallest model

No

sounds like shit, just rewire your headlights using bigger wire and relays, ca&e has been a marketing tool for some years now, they have to make money somehow now because of the invention of the internet. You dont have to wait a month to pay 3.95 or whatever for their shitty magazine

Marketing for who? Small parts manufacturers / distributors like DigiKey or Radioshack? Pretty straight forward to me...

Not getting a cap...they are worthless, Bones22, i have checked everything over, and all the connections look good. Was wondering if each battery to the frame would help?

A setup that big I'd do runs of 1/0 instead of using the chassis.

 

[savagebee 10+ year member]

A setup that big I'd do runs of 1/0 instead of using the chassis.

but..

would grounding the rear batts, as well as the front equate to the same thing? while using less wire?

Ive considering how to wire up my spares, and had this question

especially in a suburban, with a unibody, maybe itd be different

 

[jailhouseracer8 10+ year member]

both of my batteries are up front, under the hood. The only wire that isnt 1/0, is the + that connects the two batts together. Its a VERY heavy 4 gauge, but imma change it to 1/0 after work today. I was also wondering, instead of grounding each individual battery to the frame, would it be betteer to run a strech of 1/0 between the two grounds as well, between the two batteries, and then grounf the main battery to the frame? thanks guys, keep the input comming! thanks alot, Ed

 

[PSturmer 10+ year member]

i'd say run full grounds.