LF Advice on buying new speakers and what not

[Trey803 5,000+ posts]

Dude, no one can help you until you make a decision on what it is you want. If you keep changing your stance on what you want I cannot help.

 

[Trey803 5,000+ posts]

My sub amp is a Kenwood KMM-BT315U

So now you magically own a sub amp. You've got to be kidding or some sort of Internet troll this is rediculous.

 

[Jcdanible]

as in your ears will bleed before you reach max volume. Polk DB line and the ppi phantom 900.4 is the lowest i'd go for acceptable quality. Most other stuff under that are jack sh*t. Look into JBL GT5 12s or 15s for subs, PPI phantom 1000.1 for sub amp as well. Its better to just save up and buy proper gear now rather than constantly wasting your money with trash tier stuff that will never satisfy you.
I'm pretty sure your head unit doesnt have it thats why I had the key words "IN THE FUTURE" in my post, not saying now.

My stereo is a Kenwood KMM-BT315U, Please can you be more specific about what speakers and subs I should checkout? There are a ton of different things in the polk DB line. Sorry I meant stereo but It came out as sub amp, I promise I'm not trolling I'm just confused as hell.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

My stereo is a Kenwood KMM-BT315U, Please can you be more specific about what speakers and subs I should checkout? There are a ton of different things in the polk DB line. Sorry I meant stereo but It came out as sub amp, I promise I'm not trolling I'm just confused as hell.

Polk DB line

Let me google that for you

PPI

Let me google that for you

PPI 1000.1 sub amp

Let me google that for you

You are not trolling but you are asking to be spoon fed a bit there buddy.

 

[Jcdanible]

Sorry, I really just don't want to **** up with a purchase. For real just imagine I'm starting from the very beginning with only a new stereo...

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Sorry, I really just don't want to **** up with a purchase. For real just imagine I'm starting from the very beginning with only a new stereo...

if you want to keep in a good budget, you can buy that ppi 4 channel amp, use the front two channels to power the front component speakers and the rear two channels to power the subwoofer and dont even bother with the rear speakers(just leave it on head unit power.) So you dont have to buy a seperate sub amp or wiring kit.

Two of these

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21392_JBL-GT5-12D.html

one of this

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_38338_Precision-Power-PPI-P900.4.html

One of this

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ

dont waste money on rear speakers, absolutely useless when you have a proper front stage going on. Most Top level cars in the world do not use rears at all. it just messes up the sound quality.

 

[Jcdanible]

Great, Idea but I'm not on that tight of a budget haha!

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

What the JBLs can do if you build a nice well designed box for them.



Dont buy boxes, its cheaper to build your own and the performance is way better.

 

[Jcdanible]

Hah, sounds good so what's the difference between a single coil and double coil sub? I'm looking at the JBL GT5 12's and there are single and double coil options for the same price...

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Great, Idea but I'm not on that tight of a budget haha!

you can have rears if you want connected parallel to the front speakers, the amp has more than enough power to power them. 225 watts split between the two at 2 ohms so no issues there.

so front and rear speakers on channels 1 and 2

subwoofers on channel 3 and 4. Each sub will get 225 watts which is fine since they are rated at 275 watts. should be enough to power them if you build a well designed ported box.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Hah, sounds good so what's the difference between a single coil and double coil sub? I'm looking at the JBL GT5 12's and there are single and double coil options for the same price...

you'll want dual voice coils since you can drop the impedance to 2 ohms and get more power out of the amp. If you go single voice coil you will buck stuck at 4 ohms only getting 145 watts vs 225 at 2 ohms.

 

[Jcdanible]

Alright so are you saying i could run everything off of a single Precision Power PPI P1000.1 amp...? Precision Power PPI P1000.1 Phantom 1000W Monoblock Amplifier

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Alright so are you saying i could run everything off of a single Precision Power PPI P1000.1 amp...? Precision Power PPI P1000.1 Phantom 1000W Monoblock Amplifier

i said 4 channel... please read lol. i even listed the gear just now.

 

[Jcdanible]

i said 4 channel... please read lol. i even listed the gear just now.

sorry i thought you meant 5 channel since this is what it linked me to. Precision Power PPI I640 5 640W RMS 5 4 3 Channel ion Class D Amplifier Car Amp | eBay

Also are you saying I would only use 1 single 12" sub?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

sorry i thought you meant 5 channel since this is what it linked me to. Precision Power PPI I640 5 640W RMS 5 4 3 Channel ion Class D Amplifier Car Amp | eBay
Also are you saying I would only use 1 single 12" sub?

I meant this post...

if you want to keep in a good budget, you can buy that ppi 4 channel amp, use the front two channels to power the front component speakers and the rear two channels to power the subwoofer and dont even bother with the rear speakers(just leave it on head unit power.) So you dont have to buy a seperate sub amp or wiring kit.
Two of these

JBL GT5-12D 12" Dual 4 ohm GT Car Subwoofer - Sonic Electronix

one of this

Precision Power PPI P900.4 Phantom 4-Channel Amplifier

One of this

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ

dont waste money on rear speakers, absolutely useless when you have a proper front stage going on. Most Top level cars in the world do not use rears at all. it just messes up the sound quality.