LF Advice on buying new speakers and what not

  • 4
    Participant count
  • Participant list
Well they don't fit I'm just saying If i did what you were saying I would have to buy new speakers regardless..?
Is this a trick question?

You clearly stated you wanted new speakers in not only the first post but also in a second post responding to one of my suggestions....

 
Is this a trick question?
You clearly stated you wanted new speakers in not only the first post but also in a second post responding to one of my suggestions....
No sorry, I think I'm typing this in confusing. I found out 6.5" will fit both front and rear doors.

I was gonna buy kicker rear and front speakers one component and one 2-way and then an amp. This is what I'm looking at Kicker 43DSC504, for rear and Kicker DS6.2 for front with tweeters and then a Jensen DUBa4100 AMP.

 
No sorry, I think I'm typing this in confusing. I found out 6.5" will fit both front and rear doors.I was gonna buy kicker rear and front speakers one component and one 2-way and then an amp. This is what I'm looking at Kicker 43DSC504, for rear and Kicker DS6.2 for front with tweeters and then a Jensen DUBa4100 AMP.
junk speaker selection and junk amp.

PPI 900.4 for your amp

get some polk db comps for the front and matching coax in the back.

 
junk speaker selection and junk amp.

PPI 900.4 for your amp

get some polk db comps for the front and matching coax in the back.

(Well then), I did replace the front door speakers and stereo and I'm left with a blank slate. I had free front door 4 way speakers Pioner TS speakers that i got for and I'm just gonna use them because I have them and they costed me nothing. I'm now needing to buy all new tweeters and rear door speakers. Any recommendations? Should be needing 2-1/2" tweeters but I can drill holes for other sizes and the rear is 5-1/4"

 
answer still stays the same. those cheapo 4 way coaxials are bottom tier walmart speakers. inefficient, peaky and lacks serious detail/clarity.

With components, you'l have the soundstage more above closer to your ears rather than by your legs. Soundstage is important for metal. Imagine drums sweeping across your dashboard, a real life-like concert on your dash, thats basically the end goal you'd want. You'll also want a head unit that can do time alignment in the future. Its basically a feature that makes all the soundwaves in your car hit your ears at the same time since the left speakers are closer to you than the right, they need to be delayed. Once all the soundwaves it your ears at the same time, it creates a digital stage that really brings your music to life like the artists are right in front of you.

Loudness wise, your ears will tap out before the setup gets stressed out with that amp.

 
I'm not sure why you would want an extra set of tweeters in your ride. If you replaced the stock door speakers with pioneer TS coaxials, these have a tweeter. You really don't need to buy a second set of tweeters if you plan on keeping the pioneer coxials.

Tweeters are used in combination with a mid bass driver such as in a component set where the tweeter and mid bass are separate. Also I believe this is how your jeep would have come from the factory.

 
I'm not sure why you would want an extra set of tweeters in your ride. If you replaced the stock door speakers with pioneer TS coaxials, these have a tweeter. You really don't need to buy a second set of tweeters if you plan on keeping the pioneer coxials.
Tweeters are used in combination with a mid bass driver such as in a component set where the tweeter and mid bass are separate. Also I believe this is how your jeep would have come from the factory.
I have been using the crutchfield article and I understand what you're saying but the problem is that the tweeters aren't working on the new pioneer speakers I added. I'm thinking this is because the Infinity amp that powers all the speakers is separating the tweeter and speaker X over and so only the tweeters actually plugged into the outlets coming from the dash will work. Please explain in full detail what you think i should do. This is a budget setup, So I'm trying to spend as little money as possible. I have free front speakers and a new stereo. everything else I need, including subs and an amp.

 
answer still stays the same. those cheapo 4 way coaxials are bottom tier walmart speakers. inefficient, peaky and lacks serious detail/clarity.
With components, you'l have the soundstage more above closer to your ears rather than by your legs. Soundstage is important for metal. Imagine drums sweeping across your dashboard, a real life-like concert on your dash, thats basically the end goal you'd want. You'll also want a head unit that can do time alignment in the future. Its basically a feature that makes all the soundwaves in your car hit your ears at the same time since the left speakers are closer to you than the right, they need to be delayed. Once all the soundwaves it your ears at the same time, it creates a digital stage that really brings your music to life like the artists are right in front of you.

Loudness wise, your ears will tap out before the setup gets stressed out with that amp.
Sorry I'm still really confused, I agree that would be cool to have time alignment but IDK if my head unit can do that. I'm trying not to spend too much money. I also don't understand what you meant by "Your ears will tap out before the setup gets stressed out with that amp"

Just hoping someone can recommend me the best bang for your buck Subs, Amp, Rear and front speakers as well as tweeters.

 
Sorry I'm still really confused, I agree that would be cool to have time alignment but IDK if my head unit can do that. I'm trying not to spend too much money. I also don't understand what you meant by "Your ears will tap out before the setup gets stressed out with that amp"
Just hoping someone can recommend me the best bang for your buck Subs, Amp, Rear and front speakers as well as tweeters.
as in your ears will bleed before you reach max volume. Polk DB line and the ppi phantom 900.4 is the lowest i'd go for acceptable quality. Most other stuff under that are jack sh*t. Look into JBL GT5 12s or 15s for subs, PPI phantom 1000.1 for sub amp as well. Its better to just save up and buy proper gear now rather than constantly wasting your money with trash tier stuff that will never satisfy you.

I'm pretty sure your head unit doesnt have it thats why I had the key words "IN THE FUTURE" in my post, not saying now.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

Yup , the dsp should have input sections, it may have one for sub? Hu to dsp. Dsp to amps, amps to speakers. Probably help you to draw this all...
2
196
i have a 15 already for the lows ita a little over kill for a crew cab but I like it and I was hoping it would sound better and louder than my old...
7
436
I always leave approx 6" or so for that very reason, in case I decide to swapp an amp if needed,or wanting too.RCAs ect. I deff do the extra 6-8"...
9
575
Honestly, beyond what you need. It will do the trick for sure, but it is excessive. Not a bad thing, just more than you will ever need. No need...
1
329

About this thread

Jcdanible

Member
Thread starter
Jcdanible
Joined
Location
OAHU
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
62
Views
2,950
Last reply date
Last reply from
Jcdanible
fixed.jpg

Popwarhomie

    Apr 29, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
done.jpg

Popwarhomie

    Apr 29, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top