Lets play a game...

[TupacThaDon1971 10+ year member]

I took a long break as far as 2007 til now....just got back on it like 8 months ago...and 2007 I was 20....let me slide dbig dog

 

[TupacThaDon1971 10+ year member]

Ok alrighty I'll do that Monday... appreciate it

 

[TupacThaDon1971 10+ year member]

And if they are good....you have any inout as to the problem from there?

 

[TupacThaDon1971 10+ year member]

As far as the dmm. Goes....can I test the coils from the terminals on the box, or does it require taking them out of the box...sorry for all the questions... appreciate all the feedback though

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

As far as the dmm. Goes....can I test the coils from the terminals on the box, or does it require taking them out of the box...sorry for all the questions... appreciate all the feedback though

Take the subs out of the box and test each coil individually. Your problem is probably a bad ground, loose connection or voltage drop. What kind of car is it, what electrical upgrades have been done and is there an amp for the mids and highs?

 

[TupacThaDon1971 10+ year member]

It's just 2 w0 15's so go 4 ohm wired down to 2 ohms on an Alpine M-1000....no other amp, 0 gauge wire, big 3 upgrade, I never had a problem for months with it until I was in the process of selling it but the box wouldn't fit in guys trunk, then I hooked it back up in mine and that's when the problems started

 

[TupacThaDon1971 10+ year member]

Single 4 ohm*

 

[TupacThaDon1971 10+ year member]

Car is a 03 buick century

 

[THATpurpleKUSH 5,000+ posts]

Loose wire or bad connection somewhere is most likely the problem. When you disconnected it was the amp on or off?

 

[TupacThaDon1971 10+ year member]

Car was off when I unhooked everything, which is why I'm just lost as to what the hell went wrong from point A to point B

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

If you are going to sell any speaker to any individual whether it be tweeter, sub, mid or mid-bass , The right thing to do and that should be done before any posting is to test the speaker /speakers..same goes for any amp,HU, EQ, Ect. unless specified NOT TESTED/basicly.. Good luck i have this for sale..its what I think of and how i feel about the Yard Sales on Subs ect. That way you understand the risk.So test them or sell as is/not tested.Pull them, test them or leave them in the box Not Tested/sell as is not tested

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

3 things to do to start out

1) measure the voltage at the amps input terminals when the sound cuts out (as in, while playing, and then hopefully you can watch the voltage when it cuts out) DMM set to DC volts. if it goes below 12v you have an issue. also check the remote input voltage vs ground, it needs to stay between 11v-13vdc. make sure the remote input wire isn't a **** connection

2) measure the DC resistance of the subwoofer. you can start by unhooking it from the amp outputs and see if it's ~1.4-2 ohms on the resistance mode. has an ohm symbol. if it's giving you weird numbers measure each coil individually. pull the sub out.

3) you kinda did this with the CD player but play music (or preferably tones) directly into the amps RCA inputs ensuring a solid connection. if it doesnt cut out, but it does cut out with your headunit, the rca cables, or the headunit, is the issue

 

[TupacThaDon1971 10+ year member]

Well I took the subs out and they each read around 3.8 on the Dmm so I'm guessing they are good to go

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Well I took the subs out and they each read around 3.8 on the Dmm so I'm guessing they are good to go

Yes they sound like they are within tolerance

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

Well I took the subs out and they each read around 3.8 on the Dmm so I'm guessing they are good to go

G2G, homie.