kinetik *****

there are plenty of people on here running 2kw+ on just extra battery power and a stock alt for daily rides...
im one of those, ive got my mmats at 2 ohms plus my pair of kickers with only a deka and the factory batt. granted i have 1/0 through out and have very good grounds for everything. the voltage sits at 13.6 at idle playing at full tilt, granted my amp is a good bit more efficient than most.

 
You're obviously talking about burp setups because everyone that runs big power daily have BIG alternators. Please take a look at meade, price, etc. They all have 6 HO alts. You are talking out of your ass. Since batteries do not make power, and the current drawn cannot be supplied by the alternator you have an unsustainable scenario. It will not take long to blow the amps up due to low voltage if people follow your "ASE" Certifiiably retarded advise. Run tell that home home homeboy.


guess all this is misinformation too?

no real cons to having alot of batteries, its always good to have reserves if you have the space to fit them. For example, I ran my high wattage/amperage system on just 4 batteries and a stock 90 amp alternator for over a year before I upgraded my Alternator.....and I compete regularly of course.
If you cant afford to get a ho alty at first, batteries are an easy way to go....and work just as well if you have enough of em.
there are trade offs i wouldnt put in 3 batteries with a 70 amp alt if my system were 3000 watts and i wouldnt just have a 250 amp alt on1 stockish battery on a 3000 watt system either.....
I'm running around 2200 watts, did BIG 3 in 1/0, added an SVR under the hood and 200a HO alt and still had bad dimming issues.
Last weekend I added a Deka Intimidator in the trunk and dimming is gone and subs hit harder as I'm not seeing the huge voltage drops.

What I still don't understand is the how/why adding a 2nd battery fixed my problem as I've read time and time again that when a car is running it's being powered by the alt, which makes sense. Happy but confused...
The alt needs a buffer, plain and simple. A hydraulic system has an accumulator, an air compressor has the air tank, your alt has the battery.
 
LOL nice try. Unfortunately you did not take on ANY of my points sic. Instead of trying to cite sources that have no bearing on your argument, each in their own respect how about you just tell me WHY you believe what you believe? If you are ASE certified, you understand basic electronics and you can tell me what causes dimming. Be very specific. I challenge your understanding so now here is your chance to prove that you understand. Next, prove how a battery can totally eliminate dimming. I have MANY more questions for you once you answer these.

 
any1 who's runnin 100a alt and pushin 1500+ watts with no problem must have more than just 1 extra batt, plus they leave their vol at like 8. they'd have to. plus i bet their cars don't need alot of juice to opperate. OP, why didn't you move the optima to under the hood for your main batt, and use the kinetic for the 2nd?
Not really. I had 1400+@1, OEM battery, OEM alternator and no big 3 and didnt have a single issue.

 
You need to do the Big 3 in 1/0 & get a h/o alternator. That is 2x more RMS power than your stock alt. can keep up with. It's not the battery dude, your alternator can''t charge it fast enough.
I'm sure you can get a h/o alt for under $500, but even that beats replacing those amps & your battery when you fry them from low voltage.
how do you know how much "rms" he is even running without him telluing you what the subs are wired at? just curious

 
my 20+ yrs as an ASE certified automotive tech says I know more about car electrical than most people do //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
I will respectfully agree to disagree with you..

never said batteries "make power" I said they store it...if the alternator supplies 100% of the voltage AND current then why do people with 10kw setups use 1 alt and 8 batteries...

H/O alts have there place but not for 1400 watt setups...
The funny thing is I work with 2 Master Certified ASE mechanics that have worked where I do for 30+ years each and they don't know crap about charging systems and batteries. They have come to me and asked questions before though. Carry on.

 
dimming is caused by voltage drop not current loss... everyone knows that ( or should ) ( lights in a car are rated at 12 volts and ran on 13.8 or more due to the alternator voltage ) when you have your car running and the lights are on and you turn the car off your lights dim... as the voltage drops the lights get dimmer and dimmer...

batteries don't magically stop dimming but they do in most cases stop some of the voltage drop ( by as much as 1 volt in most cases...) and add tons of reserve current ( not to be confused with voltage) ...

any more ?'s

 
Sundown SAE 1200 V2-JBL CSS60.4 (Sundown 50.4 soon)

that adds up to 1440 watts... any stock setup should handle it with ease with an hc1800 battery....
this. A good batt upgrade and big 3 should handle it. If not you can always try to run a spare batt and that should definately get it and save some money... can always get HO alt later if you want

 
The funny thing is I work with 2 Master Certified ASE mechanics that have worked where I do for 30+ years each and they don't know crap about charging systems and batteries. They have come to me and asked questions before though. Carry on.
then they are not true mechanics.... car electrical is 1 of the 1st things that has to be mastered...

and there are 12 - 16 certs you can get iirc...so it is not always a true indicator... and if they have been in for 30+ years they didnt ever have to take any certification tests... they would have been grandfathered in..

my ASE certs are in electrical, diagnostics, brakes, engines and transmissions...

 
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