kinetik hc1400R battery

[dustyshot 10+ year member]

I got this battery last Saturday in my mitsubishi mirage coupe as main battery. I just used my DMM on the battery with it sitting after half hour of driving for about 3 hours and thumping hard with car audio going. It came to steady 13.1 volts. Does that mean I am safe with my electrical system in car? Just making sure.

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[dustyshot 10+ year member]

*Bump*

Ok, I might just forget I even said anything.

 

[peterweiner]

what kind of amp(s)?

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

Came to a steady 13.1 volts after the engine is off or the largest dip with everything running was 13.1? Either way is good you just don't want to have your alt putting out 15 volts plus or have the lights dim too bad.

 

[dustyshot 10+ year member]

Came to a steady 13.1 volts after the engine is off or the largest dip with everything running was 13.1? Either way is good you just don't want to have your alt putting out 15 volts plus or have the lights dim too bad.

Car off with 13.1. Kinetik site says it is normal to be at 13 volts. I think the alternator is stock. I did not buy the car brand new. So someone else had it before me. Mitsubishi Mirage Coupe 1999.

what kind of amp(s)?

Amps in battery or Amp or Amps I got running subs?

The battery is 1500 amps. I have two amps in back with distribution block. One is a crunch 1100.2 pushing 2 10" kenwoods kfc-w110s, and other is fusion pack 12" sub with fusion 450 max watt amp. So I am guessing it is pushing about 750 rms. The battery is rated for 1400 rms from what my manual says.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

Sounds like you are A ok. I usually am at 500 or so watts rms but I have been well over 1000 watts rms. My truck has a stock alt.

 

[dustyshot 10+ year member]

Yeah the only problem I have with car is engine light comes on, but when I bought the car it did that. After getting it registered a year ago, I took it to Tunex Auto shop here to diagnose it and he said the machine could not find anything, and did not charge me for it. So I just undid the negative on battery and reset the computer. I had to set up my head unit every time, but small annoyance for the problem. This year when renewing the car and doing the safety and emissions it passed with flying colors. Except this last week it came on again and I have just ignore it. I think it is the air control sensor, but its like $200+ dollars for it and labor to put in. The car runs fine and smooth, so I see no reason to make any big deals over it. I might just buy the part sometime in case, and then do it when car starts to act really bad.

 

[peterweiner]

Sounds like you are A ok. I usually am at 500 or so watts rms but I have been well over 1000 watts rms. My truck has a stock alt.

agreed. you should be good to go.