Kicker subwoofers

Have you ever used anything good? The guys that only had Audiopipe think it's great.
Im ol school. Been around car audio since it took off in the 80's. The days of Nakamichi head units, M&M and Stroker subwoofers. So Ive been in car audio forever it seems. Ive owned quite a few systems. Blaupaunkt, Alpine, Directed amps, Fosgate, JL audio, Orion and Kicker of course...... not so much the SPL brands like today. But Ive had some pretty decent systems. So, I hope I answered this question.

PS. Never owned Boss, Audio Pipe, Kenford, Lanzar, Crunch, Funky pups or any other like that.

 
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Im ol school. Been around car audio since it took off in the 80's. The days of Nakamichi head units, M&M subwoofers. So Ive been in car audio forever it seems. Ive owned quite a few systems. Blaupaunkt, Alpine, Directed amps, Fosgate, JL audio, Kicker...... no so much the SPL brands like today. But Ive had some pretty decent systems. So, I hope I answered this question.
PS. Never owned Boss, Audio Pipe, Kenford, Lanzar, Crunch, Funk pups or any other like that.
So you are judging what you have now against what you had in the 80s. 300 watt sub stage was big back then. I had 250 going to a W6 and I thought it was amazing. Now we have 300 watts going to 1 mid

 
Kicker has it's place IMO. I have 2 of the CVT shallows and they're probably the loudest shallows I've heard and they take 1000w RMS without complaining.

No, they're not high quality, high power, high excursion speakers. But if you tune them properly in the correct box you can get pretty loud. Some guy on youtube was hitting 150db with 2 kicker comps and 500w or so, but that was probably with an ideal box, ideal car, and lots of testing.

There's a reason why I'm trying to get a larger box with some quality brand speakers that have more excursion though

 
Kicker has it's place IMO. I have 2 of the CVT shallows and they're probably the loudest shallows I've heard and they take 1000w RMS without complaining.
No, they're not high quality, high power, high excursion speakers. But if you tune them properly in the correct box you can get pretty loud. Some guy on youtube was hitting 150db with 2 kicker comps and 500w or so, but that was probably with an ideal box, ideal car, and lots of testing.

There's a reason why I'm trying to get a larger box with some quality brand speakers that have more excursion though
That was a burp car.

 

---------- Post added at 10:11 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:11 AM ----------

 

Is there such thing as 300w RMS to a mid that isn't pro audio?
A lot of the high end mids can run it. My HSK XL mids can do it. Is it needed? No

 
Well those are out of most peoples price range, at nearly $500 a set..and IIRC they're rated for 150w RMS each side when run as a component set, so you're losing some of that due to the crossover anyway

300w rms seems like a lot for a 1 inch coil

 
Im ol school. Been around car audio since it took off in the 80's. The days of Nakamichi head units, M&M and Stroker subwoofers. So Ive been in car audio forever it seems. Ive owned quite a few systems. Blaupaunkt, Alpine, Directed amps, Fosgate, JL audio, Fosgate, Orion and Kicker of course...... not so much the SPL brands like today. But Ive had some pretty decent systems. So, I hope I answered this question.
PS. Never owned Boss, Audio Pipe, Kenford, Lanzar, Crunch, Funky pups or any other like that.
Lol. Have u ever heard a 155+ car? U would prly shlt ur pants if all u heard is kicker Rockford and jl.

 
Well those are out of most peoples price range, at nearly $500 a set..and IIRC they're rated for 150w RMS each side when run as a component set, so you're losing some of that due to the crossover anyway
300w rms seems like a lot for a 1 inch coil
You don't run these passive bud. And music is dynamic.

 
I still believe that 300w RMS for a single 6.5 inch midrange speaker is too much for it to handle. i thought that the manufacturer power ratings were dynamic

When I see it I'll believe it lol

 
I still believe that 300w RMS for a single 6.5 inch midrange speaker is too much for it to handle. i thought that the manufacturer power ratings were dynamic
When I see it I'll believe it lol
Power ratings are based off a sine wave. That's basic stuff. How do you think we run twice rated to woofers

 
Maybe I'm wrong, but I've been trying to give 200w to a 6.7 rated at 200w and two speakers have blown now.

They are based off a sine wave? Good to know, must of gotten them mixed up. I know they usually run them at the max they can take for like 8 hours or something.

 
Maybe I'm wrong, but I've been trying to give 200w to a 6.7 rated at 200w and two speakers have blown now.
They are based off a sine wave? Good to know, must of gotten them mixed up. I know they usually run them at the max they can take for like 8 hours or something.

Quality driver quality power. Can't do it with overrated stuff

 
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