just got a 350z...best set up for this sub

there are tons of places to put it. The most beneficial one other then under the carpet is what I posted.
my old man will freak out if i was driving around without a spare or else i would. isn't there a sub behind the driver seat? probably not very much room tho...i wish that thing wasn't so close to my seat so i could go back a lil more

 

---------- Post added at 04:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:11 PM ----------

 

what about some p2's 10"? my friend has a couple i could try to buy

 
what about some p2's 10"? my friend has a couple i could try to buy...but then i'd have to worry about a new amp and such. plus the reason i wanted to keep my kickers is so i wouldn't have to buy new amp or subs...and i was gonna use 1 of the 2 subs i had incase one blew or got stolen i'd have a back up

 
what about some p2's 10"? my friend has a couple i could try to buy...but then i'd have to worry about a new amp and such. plus the reason i wanted to keep my kickers is so i wouldn't have to buy new amp or subs...and i was gonna use 1 of the 2 subs i had incase one blew or got stolen i'd have a back up
You could sell the Kickers for more than the cost of a better 10"... You wouldn't need a new amp either. Contrary to common belief, subs and amps are interchangeable.

And if your sub gets stolen, I think "easily replacing it" should be the least of your worries. More prominently being WHO broke into your car, what else did they steal, and how much are repairs.

 
Any amp will work with any subs, quit worrying about that. Although the amp is designed for door speakers, it'll work with the subs if you insist. Keep in mind, getting new equipment doesn't mean spending more money. You can always do a straight trade, or sell and use that money for something else.

As I said, despite those Kicker subs mediocrity, people will pay for the name and you can get a good chunk of change for them, certainly enough to cover the cost of a much better and ideal 10" sub. I wouldn't bother with the P2's either. If you had to choose a mainstream sub I'd say the Type R, but I still don't think it's really ideal. You need something with a high efficiency to help accommodate your enclosure restrictions.

Here are a couple subs to start... moderate efficiency, good xmax, high affordability:

TC Sounds Epic 10" DVC Subwoofer 293-656

Dayton Audio TIT280C-4 10" Titanic Mk III Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-414

Dayton Audio RSS265HO-4 10" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-462

 
Any amp will work with any subs, quit worrying about that. Although the amp is designed for door speakers, it'll work with the subs if you insist. Keep in mind, getting new equipment doesn't mean spending more money. You can always do a straight trade, or sell and use that money for something else.As I said, despite those Kicker subs mediocrity, people will pay for the name and you can get a good chunk of change for them, certainly enough to cover the cost of a much better and ideal 10" sub. I wouldn't bother with the P2's either. If you had to choose a mainstream sub I'd say the Type R, but I still don't think it's really ideal. You need something with a high efficiency to help accommodate your enclosure restrictions.

Here are a couple subs to start... moderate efficiency, good xmax, high affordability:

TC Sounds Epic 10" DVC Subwoofer 293-656

Dayton Audio TIT280C-4 10" Titanic Mk III Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-414

Dayton Audio RSS265HO-4 10" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-462
thanks for all the help i will save this thread and check those out....would you reccomend 1 or 2 10's?

is the a popular site when it comes to boxes? i want a 350z one

therse have a couple 350z ones

http://www.zenclosures.com/350z_s/43.htm

also will i need to take the bass knob out of my old car? or will my indash have a control?

 
If you end up going sealed... just get the cheapest sealed box you can find that is the right size and made with 3/4" MDF. Or build your own. If you end up going ported, you'll need some to design and build a custom ported box for your woofer and application. If you go that route, there's many members on here that can do that for you.

Here's a few other woofers I found for sale around here:

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/subwoofer-classifieds/528787-oz-audio-matrix-10s-bnib-dual-2s.html

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/subwoofer-classifieds/532880-2-dd-1510s-w-6-dustcap-vented-enclosure-2.html

Obviously you'd only be looking to buy ONE of the 2 for sale in each thread, but those are pretty good deals. The OZ have a very nice high xmax, and good efficiency, and perform well in small(ish) boxes, asking for about 1.25^ft ported, and half of that for sealed.

The DD are a solid subwoofer as well and at a great price. They've got good xmax and efficiency, not sure on their box requirements though.

For buying a sealed pre-fab, I'd just look around wherever or build it yourself. sonicelectronix.com will have some.... and other places haha. Amazon, feebay, etc.

Just saw your edit...

is the a popular site when it comes to boxes? i want a 350z one

therse have a couple 350z ones

http://www.zenclosures.com/350z_s/43.htm

also will i need to take the bass knob out of my old car? or will my indash have a control?
Those boxes look ok, and prices are pretty good. Assuming shipping isn't too bad, that's what I'd go with to keep a clean "oem" look. For a single 10" sub you have 3 options. The cheapest "corner mount" one is not an option because it only offers .43 ^ ft of air space. the other 2 under the strut bar and amp rack one are both viable depending on your preference. the one without the amp rack offer .75^ft of airspace which is good. and the amp rack offers as much as 1.4^ft which should be plenty, depending on your woofer selection you might have to tell them you need less.

As for the bass knob, that's up to you. I don't have one at all, I have no need for it. Depending on your head-unit, you may be able to control it from there as well.

 
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