Sierra Nate
Member
My first audio install I knew absolutely nothing about audio equipment. Being a trained electronics tech I understand all the electrical theory (digital) but translating that to audio (analog) was a challenge. As I struggled with decisions I found this forum which absolutely took me to a new level...just bouncing ideas off the forums and getting experienced replies led me to a beautiful installation of my pioneer AVIC 4200 HU, Pioneer GM-6704 Amp and Alpine S in the doors. Added a JL Audio 13 inch sealed sub driven by Alpine M500 and it sounded great! In that install I ran all new speaker wires and by-passed all the factory wires. Learned to set gain using a volt meter. 2009 Silverado 2500HD. Then bouncing ideas around this forum I learned how to set cross-overs to not blow up all my new equipment. All crossover and EQ settings were done in the Pioneer HU. Amps were wide open.
Next install happened when I traded my truck for a 2019 Ram 2500. This time I kept the factory HU, installed a digital sound processor to get low level inputs for the same amps, but different speakers. I went Kenbwood KFC 6.5s this time. Using a DSR1 as a DSP...that thing was a challenge to learn and to be honest I still don't think I have it set correctly. I can get good sound, but I feel like it is not it's best. Using a t-harness I used all the existing/factory speaker wires. The equipment is all tuned...this time using a SMD DD1on the Gain settings for each of the 3 amps. But the crossovers and EQ settings on the Perfect Tunes app I just can't get it to sound right. Definitely easier to use crossovers and EQ on the Pioneer AVIC HU.
This weekend my son decided to upgrade his Subi. He went all Skar equipment except for the amp for the sub...he decided the Alpine fits his Skar SVR12, which I agreed. Door speakers are driven by a Skar class d 4 channel (can't recall the model) All the equipment showed up Thursday. Friday we created a wiring diagram for his vehicle. Keeping the factory HU we decided to go Hi Level Speaker control. I'd never done this but it's all color codes and numbers so we made it happen. Cut all the speaker wires and made our own custom T-Harness directly behind the HU to tap in the amps. He's running all class D, hi level input (hi level had ground wire, we ran that to the chassis of the factory HU) with component in the front (tweeters in the dash with active crossovers at -6db). Retained all factory wires which appear to be 18awg. The custom T-Harness we built we used 18 awg 5 wire thermostat wire...happened to have a spool left over from a side job I did on my BIL's HVAC unit. While the wire is brittle and hard to twist when soldering...it turned out amazingly clean installation. All crossover settings done on the amp except for the tweeters using active crossovers.
So what has been learned? I've read countless threads saying only way to get good clean sound is to use a DSP or low level converter to feed the amps. I will say that my son's install which went completely hi level into class d amps sounds FREAKING AMAZING! But prior to running the Hi Level ground wire to the HU it did have some noise in the system. Is that the key to a good hi level installation? We spent a few hours sitting in the driveway last night listening to just about every genre of music we could find. It is freaking loud and crystal clear. The sub slaps like a scorned woman! Hard and Fast!
So I just ordered some new components for my truck and plan to rip out the DSR1 DSP from my truck and re-install everything hi level. It just seems easier to install and adjust to sound great. If I'm wrong I'll put it back the way I have it and try to learn how to use the Perfect Tunes app to improve it. But I feel like I'm addicted to this audio install stuff. This is going to get expensive.
Now I'm thinking about how I can translate all this into something useful for the next newbie that stumbles across this forum. Three completely different ways to install aftermarket sound. Option 1 and Option 3 sounded the best. I still think I can get option 2 to sound great but I just don't have the ear for the fine tuning in the Perfect Tune app that the DSR1 from Rockford Fosgate uses. I know when a sound system sounds good, but I do not have the ear to adjust a bad sounding system...even when it is perfectly tuned equipment. I am really good at the electrical stuff...on paper. My son is the exact opposite. He's got the ear to tune things but not so good at the electrical theory. If you can do both then the DSR1 may be a great tool for you?
Next install happened when I traded my truck for a 2019 Ram 2500. This time I kept the factory HU, installed a digital sound processor to get low level inputs for the same amps, but different speakers. I went Kenbwood KFC 6.5s this time. Using a DSR1 as a DSP...that thing was a challenge to learn and to be honest I still don't think I have it set correctly. I can get good sound, but I feel like it is not it's best. Using a t-harness I used all the existing/factory speaker wires. The equipment is all tuned...this time using a SMD DD1on the Gain settings for each of the 3 amps. But the crossovers and EQ settings on the Perfect Tunes app I just can't get it to sound right. Definitely easier to use crossovers and EQ on the Pioneer AVIC HU.
This weekend my son decided to upgrade his Subi. He went all Skar equipment except for the amp for the sub...he decided the Alpine fits his Skar SVR12, which I agreed. Door speakers are driven by a Skar class d 4 channel (can't recall the model) All the equipment showed up Thursday. Friday we created a wiring diagram for his vehicle. Keeping the factory HU we decided to go Hi Level Speaker control. I'd never done this but it's all color codes and numbers so we made it happen. Cut all the speaker wires and made our own custom T-Harness directly behind the HU to tap in the amps. He's running all class D, hi level input (hi level had ground wire, we ran that to the chassis of the factory HU) with component in the front (tweeters in the dash with active crossovers at -6db). Retained all factory wires which appear to be 18awg. The custom T-Harness we built we used 18 awg 5 wire thermostat wire...happened to have a spool left over from a side job I did on my BIL's HVAC unit. While the wire is brittle and hard to twist when soldering...it turned out amazingly clean installation. All crossover settings done on the amp except for the tweeters using active crossovers.
So what has been learned? I've read countless threads saying only way to get good clean sound is to use a DSP or low level converter to feed the amps. I will say that my son's install which went completely hi level into class d amps sounds FREAKING AMAZING! But prior to running the Hi Level ground wire to the HU it did have some noise in the system. Is that the key to a good hi level installation? We spent a few hours sitting in the driveway last night listening to just about every genre of music we could find. It is freaking loud and crystal clear. The sub slaps like a scorned woman! Hard and Fast!
So I just ordered some new components for my truck and plan to rip out the DSR1 DSP from my truck and re-install everything hi level. It just seems easier to install and adjust to sound great. If I'm wrong I'll put it back the way I have it and try to learn how to use the Perfect Tunes app to improve it. But I feel like I'm addicted to this audio install stuff. This is going to get expensive.
Now I'm thinking about how I can translate all this into something useful for the next newbie that stumbles across this forum. Three completely different ways to install aftermarket sound. Option 1 and Option 3 sounded the best. I still think I can get option 2 to sound great but I just don't have the ear for the fine tuning in the Perfect Tune app that the DSR1 from Rockford Fosgate uses. I know when a sound system sounds good, but I do not have the ear to adjust a bad sounding system...even when it is perfectly tuned equipment. I am really good at the electrical stuff...on paper. My son is the exact opposite. He's got the ear to tune things but not so good at the electrical theory. If you can do both then the DSR1 may be a great tool for you?
