Judge my setup!

[mile098 10+ year member]

^^louder does not equal better:fyi:

 

[req 5,000+ posts]

I asking for opinions on this:
One 10" sub playing ~100-50hz

One 15" sub playing ~50-28hz

Each powered by seperate amps.

Good idea or not.

1 out of 73.6

hows that? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

ok so i just actually read the thread. heres the deal. sub bass is generally considered to stop at about 80hz. if your sub can not play from 20hz to 80hz efficiently then your install or equipment is complete garbage. this is how i see it. some people tailor their boxes to suit massive low end, because they are ballers and want senior citizens to pay back for their social security earnings. some people tailor their sound to blend with the rest of the music.

i think your main issue is lack of 80hz~250hz. this is what you are describing the *punch in the chest* feel. and this is NOT something a subwoofer is designed to play. speaking of that, most of the time, since most vehicles do not have room, a subwoofinator is installated in the rear of the vehicular. this means that the music is now behind you. a certain property of subbass is that is is omnidirectionated, thus meaning that the audio tones are not easily pin pointed if set up properly. now a concern of most learned individualtors is that frequencies above 80hz start to become quite directionated. this means you will start hearing things that were meant to be heard in front of you - through your subwoofinator!!! omg wtf ftl you say? ME TOO!!!~!!11!

now, if you change your thinking and get a speakerwoofer that is tailored to subwoofinating tones, then you should be able to eliminize the negative non-omnidirectionated audio tonez. by setting your amplifactor units at correct crossinized slopes at around 80 hertz. Proceedenating to your frontal staginezes - you will want to upgrade your coaxailized woofer mc'tweeters to something that is designed to play from roughly 80 hertz and up - using a highal passifier crossifinating slopafier on your amplifcator unit to reduce or remove any hint of subwoofinating tonez emitting from your componazized woofinators, and utilizing a passifiying crossifanator that comes standardized with your componazized woofinators to blend your mc'tweeter with your woofinator.

this will apply roughly 20hz~80hz to your subwoofinator, 80hz~2khz to your woofinator, and 2khz~20khz to your mc'tweeter.

with proper damplifinating materials and construcifacation procedures you can have much more chest eating midwoofafying tones while keeping your head rumbling subwoofafying drones and transientafying responseafactors at a staggering coefficence.

hows that?

in short, get whatever sub you want, set to 80hz and below. then get some components - and either active crossover points or by whatever means you want get a speaker that is meant to play midbass.

 

[rc10mike 10+ year member]

Well for one thing, Im not trying to accomplish all-out loundess.

req:

I understand what your trying to say....somewhat. The one part I dont get is that you say that punch in the chest is 80-250 and a sub is not designed to play it, yet when I had my one 10 with ~120W, The punch in the chest was there! And there was a ton of it!

 

[8thGenSI 10+ year member]

Wouldnt you hear different frequencies in different areas of the car. Like the driver might be hearing different sound the the passenger. I know bass travels over a lot wider of a range, oposed to a tweeter where if you do not have it pointing in your direction you will not hear it as well, but bass has its limitations to. I dunno, just a thought.