JL JX360 amp with CDT/JL/ID comps?

[ecxtimmy 10+ year member]

I'm looking to upgrade my fronts and rears. I have a kenwood excelon x895 Deck.

I'm fairly set on the JL Audio JX360/4 amp, I can get a new one for $155 bucks shipped. It will do

70 x 4 at 4ohms or 90 x 4 at 2 ohms.

Here are the components I've been looking at, also looking for a set of coxials for my rear.

Budget is around 150-200 for an amp, and about 300 for fronts and rears

I am not able to provide any links due to being a new member

Fronts:

-CDT CL-61a-2.25 PRO (2 OHM) ---- 150 watts RMS

-JL Audio C2-650 (not sure about 6" vs 6.5") ---- 60 watts RMS

-Image Dynamics CTX 65CS ----- 100 watts RMS

Rears:

CDT CL-6EX.2 (2ohm) ----- 90 watts RMS

JL Audio C2-600X ---- 60 watts RMS

Image Dynamics CTX65 --- 75 watts RMS (There 6.75" which may be slightly to big for the back of my integra)

So Just wanted some wisdom on the amp I chose (JX360/4) and how well the speakers I have chosen will match the amp. I have always wanted CDT's I'm just not sure if 90 watts RMS is enough for them when there rated at 150, and I've heard you need to really power them to make them shine.

Any input on amp and speaker setup would be great.

Thanks

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[BnGRacing 10+ year member]

Those RMS numbers do not mean a thing. It's a useless spec (really).

If you want CDTs and like how they sound, buy them. I wouldn't worry one bit about power handling, rating, or any of the other numbers printed on the speaker's box.

 

[ecxtimmy 10+ year member]

I'm set on either the CDT's or ID's, just wanted to know from anyone who owned either knows if they won't really shine without a lot of power (which is what I've heard about the CDT's)

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Ditch the rears and get better fronts.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

the cdt's are very nice ,even at low power,i can get you a nice deal on the cdt's also.i'm a dealer for them

 

[ecxtimmy 10+ year member]

Ditch the rears and get better fronts.

Recommendations? Also looking at a better amp, either an Arc Audio or a Image Dynamics.

 

---------- Post added at 07:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:29 PM ----------

 

the cdt's are very nice ,even at low power,i can get you a nice deal on the cdt's also.i'm a dealer for them

Send me a PM pls, would love to get a good deal on the CDT Front and Rears that I linked (If you think there a good buy for the price)

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Just look at mid range Hertz, Focal, Rainbow... Stuff like that. Once you get the front stage imaged right you wont hear the rears. And when people but a lower level speaker in the rear it really hurts the SQ

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Recommendations? Also looking at a better amp, either an Arc Audio or a Image Dynamics. 

---------- Post added at 07:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:29 PM ----------

 

Send me a PM pls, would love to get a good deal on the CDT Front and Rears that I linked (If you think there a good buy for the price)

pm sent all warranties from cdt not an outside vendor

 

[ecxtimmy 10+ year member]

I've been hearing that I should really focus on running my Fronts from an amp and just running the rears off the HU for "rear fill" any imput?

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

really depends on your taste ,i run all my mids and highs amped,frt and back,i just turn the rears down a bit less than the frt

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

I've been hearing that I should really focus on running my Fronts from an amp and just running the rears off the HU for "rear fill" any imput?

Alot of people do this, for different reasons actually. I actually think some do it just because everyone else does. The main reason people do it, though, is that if youre trying to get a realistic sound stage up front for a nice SQ setup then, w/o proper implement, rears will ruin that stage. But, if youre not going for an all out SQ setup and you just want an all around nice sound thats enjoyable for you and any passengers, then rear fill can be beneficial (usually makes for pretty nice volume with windows down or outside the car as well). Thats not to say that running fronts only can't entertain all passengers and give you a full sound, though. But its not as simple as "only running fronts with a buttload of power because that means better SQ". Its really personal preference IMO, though. Personally, before I went more of an SQ route, I loved my rear fill. In the end, its your car, your ears, your money. Too, its probably your best bet if you can, to try and listen to some speakers before purchasing. All we can really do is give you speakers to look into. That said, I'd look into the Boston Acoustics SC and SE lines. Possibly Hybrid Audio Mirus, those JL C2s are actually worth a look for their online prices....just some suggestions off the top of my head.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

I'm a CDT dealer. I ran the CDT CL-62Pro set for a year off 120 watts per channel. This doesn't result in a large audible difference versus 90 watts per channel, for comparison. They get loud enough to hurt while staying well-behaved. Midbass is not great on the CL line but for what it does it sounds natural.

Since that amplifier is only rated to put out an additional 20 watts when going down to 2 Ohms I would not be concerned about shopping for 2 Ohm speakers. Less regulated amps, which would be closer to doubling their output when halving the impedance, would make the 2 Ohm choice much more beneficial.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

I'm a CDT dealer. I ran the CDT CL-62Pro set for a year off 120 watts per channel. This doesn't result in a large audible difference versus 90 watts per channel, for comparison. They get loud enough to hurt while staying well-behaved. Midbass is not great on the CL line but for what it does it sounds natural.
Since that amplifier is only rated to put out an additional 20 watts when going down to 2 Ohms I would not be concerned about shopping for 2 Ohm speakers. Less regulated amps, which would be closer to doubling their output when halving the impedance, would make the 2 Ohm choice much more beneficial.

agreed ^^ this

 

[CAT MAN 5,000+ posts]

Those RMS numbers do not mean a thing. It's a useless spec (really).
If you want CDTs and like how they sound, buy them. I wouldn't worry one bit about power handling, rating, or any of the other numbers printed on the speaker's box.

you sir are stupid

 

[ecxtimmy 10+ year member]

Anyone got any input on good rear speakers. Should I go for coxials or mids? Also is it worth spending alittle more and getting a pair or rainbow comps. Wooferetc has a few set under 250

6.5" Rainbow Comps

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

you sir are stupid

There are much more important things to worry about than RMS power ratings on speakers. Even the CEA-2031 standard, which a lot of manufacturers don't follow, doesn't do enough to prevent lying and the resultant confusion among shoppers. Oh, and learn some manners.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

Anyone got any input on good rear speakers. Should I go for coxials or mids? Also is it worth spending alittle more and getting a pair or rainbow comps. Wooferetc has a few set under 250
6.5" Rainbow Comps

attenuated mids, bandpassed from 300 to 3000hz