JL Audio 1000/1

jerbad71

Junior Member
OK, Here is the problem. I have a JL 1000/1 first edition. It is in a 2004 Yukon XL pushing 4 12W3V2 D4's. When Its hitting hard the amp does not cut all the way out but it reduces the power significantly. It doesn't do it all the time but it happens a lot. I have stock everything. 0 guage wire. I had a vold meter on the amp and the lowest voltage is 9 volts. The low voltage light never comes on. I need to know whats the best option to eliminate this reduction in volume. It is driving me absolutly insane. Thank you for your help

 
Errrr.... voltage drop down to only 9v is REALLY bad for the amp, do you know that? The reason why your amp cuts power is because it's trying hard to not blow up from you abusing it.

Voltage drop down to 11v is low enough for some amps to shut off or fry the transistor, you're way pass that. Consider yourself lucky that your amp hasn't broke yet. Get at least a second battery.

 
You'll need to do the big 3 upgrade and second battery at least. buy a HO alternator if you have the money. If you dont know what a big 3 upgrade is search it, its something everybody should have done imo.

 
your amp is a piece of ****
JL 1000/1 > AP 1800-1D //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

the slash amps are excellent amps. They are current hogs, but they put out clean power & exactly what they say they will. any impendance, down to 11V.

Op-- the amp is pulling more voltage than your alternator/battery can keep up with.

1/0 power AND ground. make sure you have a good ground & all connections are secure. check the gain & all settings on the amp.Upgrade your big 3 with 1/0. Have your battery checked, if it's time for a new one look into Kinetik, Stinger, Deka 31a, or something similar. If the battery is good however, it's time for a high output alternator. If your battery is good/replaced along with a high output alternator & you still have drops (very unlikely) then look into adding a rear 2nd battery. A second battery is the last thing you look to upgrade.

 
Are you running an aftermarket deck or using the stock deck with a line level converter?

I had this same issue with my JL Audio 500/1 in my b6 Audi S4 with the factory Bose system with a JL audio Cleansweap, it was a input voltage problem. Those amplifiers are very picky on input voltage.

Also voltage dipping into the 9v is VERY bad you are going to blow that amp anything below 10.5 is pushing it.

Check your Head Unit as well.

 
180$
You think 4 1800-1d would outdo a JL 1000/1?
If you're gonna post retail of the JL, post retail of the AP.

1000/1 can be had for $250-$300. & that is a better investment than Audiopipe.

Run a 1k rms sub off a Audiopipe 1800.1d @ 4ohm & another 1k rms sub off the 1000/1 @ 4ohm.

AP sub-- 5-600 rms of dirty power. JL sub-- 1k rms clean power.

 
Used JL 1000/1 can be had for around $350 shipped, they're $500 or more new. $180~$190 for a new Audippipe 1800 shipped, used ones are like $150 or less.

My AP30001D sounds pretty clean to me and this is coming from a guy who had an USA-2000X(one of the best amps ever made period) to compare and contrast, of course it isn't as crisp as the class AB monster but the JL 1000/1 doesn't come anywhere close to the 2000X either.

 
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jerbad71

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