JL Audio 1000/1

[bigman411 10+ year member]

When your vehicle is running, your alternator is powering your amps. If your current draw from your amps is too much, your alternator cannot keep up.
What is the total RMS output from your system? Also, what size fuses are used for each of your amps?

I think someone else mentioned this, but you have to realize a stock alternator is not made to supply a high-powered audio system. You do have some current to play with, but the stock alternator is built to handle the current demands of the car without an added strain from a powerful audio system. If you're running 1500w total RMS, then you're basically looking at an additional 150 amps of current draw. That's not set in stone or anything, but should be fairly close.

Im running 1450rms. I have a 250 fuse and 0 gauge from battery. How come some people's systems are fine and mine isnt lol. So you think its the alternator and not the amp. Because the amp runs fine and sub for the 1st 20 min. So Im guessing it cant stay on full power on sub for so long. Are 200 amp alternators same size as the stock 130?

 

[bigman411 10+ year member]

Well when the problem occured again today, I popped the trunk and looked. The JL 1000/1 is in thermal protection (red light). Why is my sub amp getting so much hotter than my other Jl amp? Is this not tuned right?