Issue nobody can figure out

[love car audio 10+ year member]

I have a problem that nobody can figure out for some reason. Let me be clear that I know a little bit about Car audio but not enough to troubleshoot big issues.

For starters I have a 2005 Touareg with the factory battery underneath the seat in a Kinetik 2400 in the back of the truck.

Avic z-120 head unit

Jl audio 450/4 mids amp

Sound stream amp on sub

Pvr 6s in front door

Kicker qs mids in rear door but they have died (not sure if this is causing the amp to clip or cut out)

So in the morning I go to vehicle start the car up turn the radio on and everything plays fine for about 30 to 40 minutes depending on how hard I'm pushing it. At that point either the sub amp or the mid amp Will start to go into the mode on the JL. Both the sound stream and the JL will eventually start to go in and out. At that point I will turn the volume all the way down and then the sub woofer off from the radio and the radio off after that.

After a minute or two I can hear a clicking noise coming from the tweeter in the front and then a pop from the sub woofer in the back it alternates back-and-forth for about 10 to 15 minutes.

After that 15 minutes the clicking in the front and the supple for pop in the rear stop.

Prior to this I had all kicker mids and highs and H AL 1000 as my sub amp the 450 was the mid amp. I had a smaller kinetik battery and that was it everything else works fine for two years.

The voltage reading to rear battery is 13.9 but at amps 12.

Not sure if it's ground or what.

Open to ideas... More detail the better as I said I am ignorant when it comes to this type of thing and advanced troubleshooting.

Click to read more...

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Sounds like a loose or bad ground

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

cutting out can be low voltage or thermal protection or low impedance. typically, low impedance is at start-up so we're looking more towards low voltage or thermal protection.

did you re-use any factory wiring for speakers? if so, run new. if you re-used factory wiring then they may be connected to a factory amp somewhere that is causing a lot of your problems.

 

[Jepalan]

Feels like you might have more than one issue going on.

Amps going into protect mode could be voltage drop (measure it at each amp).

Voltage drop could be bad power connection, or bad ground, or failing power capacitor (if you have one, remove it).

To troubleshoot the ground, actually remove it from the ground point and sand the chassis down to bare metal (do this again, even if you think it is OK).

As far as the continued pops and clicks after turning off the head unit, you may have a bad RCA ground or a popped RCA ground micro fuse (aka pico-fuse) in your Pioneer head unit. There is a good discussion with pics here about how to work around the pico fuse issue if that is what you have -> I HAVE CONQUERED PIONEER'S ALTERNATOR WHINE!!! - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

 

[love car audio 10+ year member]

Thank you all for the great comments. Will be checking ground etd

 

---------- Post added at 02:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:26 PM ----------

 

All new wires were used for door speakers and sub

 

[negolien]

Did you change something right before you stared having this issue? or was this all done recently?

"Prior to this I had all kicker mids and highs and H AL 1000 as my sub amp the 450 was the mid amp. I had a smaller kinetik battery and that was it everything else works fine for two years"

 

[love car audio 10+ year member]

Well, my issues from HID Unlimited haven't left yet... They had mounted a fuse underneath the driver seat by the battery that was touching metal and grounded/melted the fuse block. The 250 amp fuse never popped it just melted the entire fuse holder on one side. This of course was the issue with low voltage. smh... God I hate that place and their half assed installs! Thank you to all of the contributors!

 

[Jepalan]

Well, my issues from HID Unlimited haven't left yet... They had mounted a fuse underneath the driver seat by the battery that was touching metal and grounded/melted the fuse block. The 250 amp fuse never popped it just melted the entire fuse holder on one side. This of course was the issue with low voltage. smh... God I hate that place and their half assed installs! Thank you to all of the contributors!

Ouch. Must've been the batt side of the fuse holder that grounded out. Hope you get it sorted out.