Is this why my front stage gets over taken by my sub stage?

jockhater2
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Veteran
I have 2 morel tweets (i think they are 80-100 watts a piece). 2 4" polk co-axials with 1" tweets (don't remember the watts. I believe 25-50). and 2 5.25" polk co-axials with 1" tweets (i think 80-100). These are all running off of my HU.

everything is located in the front. No speakers in the rear.

My sub stage makes it hard to hear the mids/highs. So I know I am going to have a harder time when I build a new box and turn the amp's gain up/re wire for lower ohms.

So my question is. Are my front speakers getting over taken by the sub stage because of the lack of power. Should I get a multi channel amp?

I think the morel tweets are 8 ohms, and the polks are 4. IIRC.

Also. I have no idea how to wire up a multi channel amp. Never used one. I mean the obvious stuff of power/ground and RCA's.

But I mean. Wiring them to the amp. Could I wire my current speakers with there different impedance's?

Or should I add more door speakers? *I'd rather not. but am not against it if that is what it takes to solve the mids/high issue*

 
HU = Itsy Bitsy Teeny Weeny Power
that is what I assumed is the problem. So amp is the solution.

Can I wire different impedance's to the amp?

I think I read that you can. Because each channel on a multi channel amp is apart from the others.

 
this:http://www.caraudio.com/forums/amplifier-classifieds/558221-precision-power-p900-4-145w-x-4-4-available.html

wire the coaxes to the rear channels parallel in stereo for 100w ea. and the morels to the front channels for @ 75-100w ea...this will also open up the option of running the morels active HP on the built in x-over and keeping the coaxes FR...and should you decide to replace the coaxes with some decent midbasses down the road, there ya go.
A class D full range? Just means its more efficient and not as SQ oriented as a Class A/B full range? I didn't know they made class d full range amps.

And that is actually another question I have. what is running active?

And what do you mean by keeping the coaxes FR?

And how come the coaxes wouldn't be able to run active?

 
So I would wire the tweets to one channel. the 4" coaxes to one. and 5.25" to the other. and I would have 1 channel free.

Well. Then. I will be definitely looking into an amp next year. The sound car is my winter car. So I need it right now. I can't have it sitting. Plus its too cold for me to want to do anything.

But I think my plan is 2nd alternator, then a used 4 channel (i don't care about looks) and I have no room in the car to mount it. So it will probably get mounted on the back of the sub box.

 
A class D full range? Just means its more efficient and not as SQ oriented as a Class A/B full range? I didn't know they made class d full range amps.
And that is actually another question I have. what is running active?

And what do you mean by keeping the coaxes FR?

And how come the coaxes wouldn't be able to run active?
dude, that little PPI is one of the cleanest class D's out there..and yes, Alpine, PPI, RF, JL, etc. all make good full range class D's these days..in the last couple of years, the tech has allowed this beyond just a couple of mfgrs like Eclipse. I was talking about running the coaxes on the rear channels Full Range and yes, you will be able to use a High Pass on the coaxes, but they will prolly sound like poo running as midbasses only...but maybe not...you just need to amp up and tune to your liking from there.

 
dude, that little PPI is one of the cleanest class D's out there..and yes, Alpine, PPI, RF, JL, etc. all make good full range class D's these days..in the last couple of years, the tech has allowed this beyond just a couple of mfgrs like Eclipse. I was talking about running the coaxes on the rear channels Full Range and yes, you will be able to use a High Pass on the coaxes, but they will prolly sound like poo running as midbasses only...but maybe not...you just need to amp up and tune to your liking from there.
I wasn't dogging the class d part. I was simply asking. Because I was under the assumption that sub amps were class d, and mids/high amps were class A/B. I know very little.

Yes. The coaxes would sound better on the HP. I think I have the HP set now @ 160-200 for the 4" and 120 for the 5.25.

So an amp will help juice them up and not let the bass over take them?

 

---------- Post added at 03:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:04 PM ----------

 

so what is running "active"?

 
So I would wire the tweets to one channel. the 4" coaxes to one. and 5.25" to the other. and I would have 1 channel free.
Well. Then. I will be definitely looking into an amp next year. The sound car is my winter car. So I need it right now. I can't have it sitting. Plus its too cold for me to want to do anything.

But I think my plan is 2nd alternator, then a used 4 channel (i don't care about looks) and I have no room in the car to mount it. So it will probably get mounted on the back of the sub box.
hmm..the two morels are 8 ohm, the 4 coaxes are four ohm, the morels will draw 1/2 the power of each coax. You have ch 1,2,3 and 4. channel 1 & 2 will be the front channels on the amp and channel 3 & 4 will be the rear channels on the amp. Wire the the left morel to channel 1, the right morel to channel 2..the left 2 coaxes will go to ch 3 and the right 2 coaxes will go to ch 4 ....lol...hmm..on the PPI it is mapped out front/rear & left/right...same thing though:

p9004.jpg


 
hmm..the two morels are 8 ohm, the 4 coaxes are four ohm, the morels will draw 1/2 the power of each coax. You have ch 1,2,3 and 4. channel 1 & 2 will be the front channels on the amp and channel 3 & 4 will be the rear channels on the amp. Wire the the left morel to channel 1, the right morel to channel 2..the left 2 coaxes will go to ch 3 and the right 2 coaxes will go to ch 4 ....lol...hmm..on the PPI it is mapped out front/rear & left/right...same thing though:
p9004.jpg
boy that is a lot different than a sub amp.

ok. Thank you SO MUCH. Everything you wrote. Was all news to me. I don't know anything about mids/high amps.

I might get a 6 channel so I have some left over in-case I add more door speakers. I prefer to overdue things so I am set for whatever happens in the future.

I am glad you laid it all for me as well. I really appreciate that too! I am going to have to refer back to this thread or PM when I get around to doing this.

 

---------- Post added at 03:16 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:15 PM ----------

 

Why do I feel that everyone is getting trolled?
bring on the troll. Idc what goes on in my threads.

 
[bring on the troll. Idc what goes on in my threads.
I actually thought you were trolling everyone. Looking at your signature

MKII VW Jetta/Head Unit Kenwood KDC-X895

3 Runs of 1/0 Gauge OFC Power and 3 Runs of 1/0 Gauge OFC Ground

1 XS Power D3400 and 2 XS Power XP3000 with No.1 Copper Bus Bars

380 Amp Iraggi Alternator (14.7v cold and 14.5 hot) (For a 99-04 chevy)

Exile X5 Amplifier wired @ 2 ohm/Never drops below 13.5v

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I would of thought you were just pulling everybodies legs. BUt I guess I was wrong. Didn't mean to post dump here.

 
I actually thought you were trolling everyone. Looking at your signature
MKII VW Jetta/Head Unit Kenwood KDC-X895

3 Runs of 1/0 Gauge OFC Power and 3 Runs of 1/0 Gauge OFC Ground

1 XS Power D3400 and 2 XS Power XP3000 with No.1 Copper Bus Bars

380 Amp Iraggi Alternator (14.7v cold and 14.5 hot) (For a 99-04 chevy)

Exile X5 Amplifier wired @ 2 ohm/Never drops below 13.5v

2 12 inch Ascendant Audio Mayhems

Tuned Around 32-34 hertz. About 5-5.5 cubic feet (made by dbeez)

I would of thought you were just pulling everybodies legs. BUt I guess I was wrong. Didn't mean to post dump here.
how come you thought that? what about my signature made it seem like I was pulling legs?

 
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