Is this right? Safe?

[MkKin420 10+ year member]

honestly Id like to keep the 2 the same size so would it just be a better idea to get a 100a anl fuse instead? sorry if I am over posting or something let me now Im new to the forum.

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

if its 4 ga wire 100 amp is about right max would be 125 , 150 is too big

 

[MkKin420 10+ year member]

O alright, ya i got an inline from the front batt thats a 100 amp agu and then im going to put an anl fuse right near the batt in the back I just wanted to know if the 150 would work or if I should just go with my gut instinct and get a 100 to be safe?

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm

 

[MkKin420 10+ year member]

thanks for the help audiolife

 

[skittlesRgood 10+ year member]

battery in back still is a power source and would still deliver power to the short..that is why you fuse by the battery in back

exept that if the fuse pops then it opens the circuit. no more short.

i do agree that its not a bad idea to add the extra fuse. im just a cheap a$$

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

exept that if the fuse pops then it opens the circuit. no more short.
i do agree that its not a bad idea to add the extra fuse. im just a cheap a$$

If the short happens within 18" of the first battery under the hood before the first fuse....or do you people think its ok for a battery to short out against bare metal?

I have seen a few fires from not doing this correctly be it a 93 beater ford or a sports car saftey means more than anything else even if the car is a POS it is worth a 15 dollar fuse holder for front and back. when you fuse the wire be within 18" of either battery. If I have to draw this out and explain this I will be in shock...a battery is not an amplifier it still stores enough power to make a fire and enough current to burn your ring finger off if you have a ring on and short it out. I have SEEN all of this happen although my fellow employee didnt lose his finger he still had to go to the er and his finger is not what it once was.

 

[99grandprixGT 5,000+ posts]

exept that if the fuse pops then it opens the circuit. no more short.
i do agree that its not a bad idea to add the extra fuse. im just a cheap a$$

spend 20 bucks now or have to spend a thousands to get a new car //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 

[MkKin420 10+ year member]

ya I really agree with you the car is only a 94 century but Safety is still the first priority no matter what. The cable could get cut or snagged or anything and the closer the fuse is to the battery the better. If the fuse far enough from the batt for the wire to reach metal in the event that the fuse did not blow and/or the plastic melted and lead to a short the battery would short leading to an even worse problem, Total system meltdown/failure what goods a POS if the electrical system is fried a few bills out of my pocket is better than a few grand out of my bank acount later on down the road. (take a drag off my smoke) done.

 

[Blue Fury 10+ year member]

i think it is pointless as well. the fuse up front will pop b4 the wire gets anywhere near warm.

Thats the whole Point!

THE FUSE PROTECTS THE WIRE

FUSE IT

 

[wevie 10+ year member]

Hopefully the need for both fuses has been explained well enough.

For those that still think the rear fuse is not needed:

 

[NewAgeKing 5,000+ posts]

Glad its been cleared up. I never did and never gave it much thought really. Im going to upgrade my run to 1/0 and have a spare holder laying around, i think ill put it in. Im going to eventually stick a 2nd deka in my car so it seems logical.

 

[bigaudiofanatic 10+ year member]

You need a fuse after the battery no matter which battery it is. I have to agree with CRX.

 

[NewAgeKing 5,000+ posts]

You need a fuse after the battery no matter which battery it is. I have to agree with CRX.

Argument was before the battery, not after it. Of course you need one after the batt.